Taking the body of the FJ60/62...

[Buffalo]

In the next few months I would like to resto my FJ60/62 crossover. With the exception of one section of the roof that is rusting out (that I will get fixed prior to moving onto anything else incase it is far worse than so far anticipated), the majority of the work will be mechanical. I intend to overhaul all the mechanicals with only minor stuff done inside the cab (such as removing heater matricies etc).

So, my first thought is to take the body clean off the chassis, leaving it all intact as one unit. This would give me great access to the chassis and enable me to rustproof it at same time. I like the idea of working on the bits at floor lever rather than from upside down with body on... With the exception of the small roof section the body is in good shape - the resto is basically because the car is +330,000km and the mechanicals are showing advanced wear thanks to Aussie dust!

Can anyone point to a good detail regarding this, or else advise what on I will need to do in order to remove the body as one unit..? Is it a viable thing to do even..?

Looking forward to some replies.

Cheers ~PHIL

 

[Joe_E]

I will be doing this same operation in the upcoming months/year.
There are some good folks on here that i'm sure will give you tips and point you to the threads.
I would think removing the front clip(fenders and rad support) would make it easier.
Make sure all electrical, piping , hoses, cables are seperated from the body that go to the chassis.
Then remove the nuts on all the rubber cushioning mounts.
I remember one gentleman mentioning he removed the seats and used the seat belt attachment points as a means to lift off the body.

 

[D'Animal]

There are several body mount bolts on both side of the body along the frame.

Other than the items that are already mentioned, the fuel lines will hold you up.

Don't know if you are working on an FJ60 or and FJ62 but thier are some plumbing differences as well.

If you want to start with a clean frame, let me know, I have a FJ60 and an FJ62 frame. Located in Central CA.

 

[RockDoc]

If you want to start with a clean frame, let me know, I have a FJ60 and an FJ62 frame. Located in Central CA.

Shipping to New South Wales might be a biggy.

 

[D'Animal]

Shipping to New South Wales might be a biggy.

I thought he was in Orange, California.

 

[VTCruiser]

Here's a way to do it if you're a broke college student. i used some 2x4, a couple 4x6's and some cinder blocks.

You'll want to pull apart the front end since the inner fenders and rad support are supported by the frame. It would put a lot of stress on the bolts attaching the fenders to the firewall if you don't. Maybe not enough to damage anything, but it would also be easier to have it all out of the way. To do it this way, you also probably want to pull the engine and axles so you can lower the frame out of the way without having the body too high. This method worked great for me because I was swapping the engine and axles anyway.

A two post lift would have been a bit more tactful, and the technique I would recommend. That way you can leave the axles and powertrain on the frame and just lift the body off and roll the chassis out. A lift would also provide a more comfortable height for working on the underbody over head.

More pics: Project Overland look on the TOC under "FRAME" for post # and links.

 

[rchalmers3]

So, my first thought is to take the body clean off the chassis, leaving it all intact as one unit. This would give me great access to the chassis and enable me to rustproof it at same time. I like the idea of working on the bits at floor lever rather than from upside down with body on...

Can anyone point to a good detail regarding this, or else advise what on I will need to do in order to remove the body as one unit..? Is it a viable thing to do even..?

Looking forward to some replies.

Cheers ~PHIL

Hey Phil,

A friend of mine into Ford Falcons built a body rotisserie to mount the body on. I was set up to rotate on the longitudinal axis. He then was able to work on every side of the body at a comfortable work position, sitting or standing. He says it was well worth the few hundred he spent. Plus it's adaptable to other cars.

His build up of the rotisserie is on another forum. I am sure he would be glad to hear someone else would benefit from the idea. If you like I'll provide a link.

Cheers,

Rick

 

[Rescue Wagon]

I'll second what VTCruiser said. I am just about to lift my 60 off of its frame and it has helped alot to remove the entire front clip. There are two brake lines on the passenger side (US) that will need to be removed and then the fuel lines front and rear. Also the emergency brake and exhaust bolt to both the frame and body so they will need to go.

BTW VTCruiser, thanks for the great idea on how to support the body. I'm a broke military member.

 

[Mikesta]

I helped a buddie do this.

Pretty easy and fun. 2 guys can do it with a engine hoist. If you go the 2 guy or guy and his wife route...

1. Run the mother out of gas.
2. Disconnect hoses and lines in firewall.
3. Remove doors/hatch/Seats
4. disconnect rear heater
5. Removed 8? or 10 Frame bolts.
6. Remove truck with tank attached.
6a. Remove truck with tank detached... make sure your run it out of gas or you will speak "CHOICE WORDS"
7. Grab a chain and connect to the front seat belt bolts. Run another chain from the rear seat belts and connect with a d ring in the middle of the two chains (center of weight). Jack up... pull hoist out and roll chassis.

Its about a 1 hour job if you know what your doing and have the air and co-operating bolts.

 

[Buffalo]

OK, thanks guys, given me something to think about. I liked the rotisserie idea when i worked on my MG, because that sucker was so low!! I never did it though. Not sure about the truck, cos they are so heavy. That said i'd still read the info if you had it...

I prefer the idea though, of lifting up the body and just moving it off. The cinder block idea is something that i have seen with a forward-control land rover and wondered about for the truck, but I am less keen do BEFORE taking out the engine, etc. My reason for removing the body from chassis frame is that all the running gear is in need of the over haul (incl engine) so i want the body out of the way to get at teh rest.

Taking the front guards off is one thing, but does the engine HAVE to come out..? By looks of Mikesta's post, hopefully not. Mikesta, if you attach all the rings inside the car, what do you use to lift? Engine hoist..?

VT Cruiser I'll look at your page thanks - I'm guessing you removed the axles, etc and then dropped the rame on the jack..?

Cheers ~PHIL

 

[VTCruiser]

My reason for removing the body from chassis frame is that all the running gear is in need of the over haul (incl engine) so i want the body out of the way to get at teh rest.

If it's just a matter of getting to the power train, I wouldn't even bother lifting the body. The engine, transmission and t-case can be pulled all together in an afternoon, faster probably if you have a helper and some air tools. You don't even need to remove the fenders completely..

In this picture the trans/t-case is missing because they were sold, but I didn't separate them from the engine until after everything was pulled.

VT Cruiser I'll look at your page thanks - I'm guessing you removed the axles, etc and then dropped the rame on the jack..?

yes, the axles came out so I could drop the frame down and slide it out. I was replacing the frame, so the axles/suspension were coming off anyway.

 

[Mikesta]

Yes, you stick the engine hoist inside the vehicle attached to the D ring. No you don't have to take the engine out to do this... I forgot the emergency break assembly, take that apart too.