Tacoma Rear DC Shaft for FZJ80 Front - Length?

[landtank]

Another option might be the rear drive shaft from a Tundra (it has a carrier bearing as well as a double cardan. It is also a much beefier drive shaft (it's pretty huge diameter wise).

-o-

I looked at the Tundras but they won't bolt up to the t-case or diff.

My first effort was from the VA area, but they were the guys who were sending me the wrong half and then shafts without yokes.

I then got desperate and went local. Surprisingly that 2002 looks worse than the one that's in there. But who really cares, people roll these trucks long before they rust out. ;p

 

[OGBeno]

people roll these trucks long before they rust out. ;p

Uh....yeah....I know the feeling...

 

[sleeoffroad]

My truck has never drove so smooth and when I had the shop look over what I had in there I was really disappointed in how it was built.

Rick, since you were running one of our shafts before I would like to know why you felt disappointed in how it was built. We have had repeated discussions with our shop re: quality and balancing and I do know that they use a high speed balancing machine.

The Koyo joints used by Toyota is better than anything that can be sourced aftermarket, but for us it is not practical to source used shafts to be converted. I would just like to know where we can improve on the shafts. We have a shop build the shafts for us from new components, but I was just wondering what is not up to snuff with the last one you had.

Also, did you get your tubed with .120 wall tubing?

 

[-Spike-]

Rick, since you were running one of our shafts before I would like to know why you felt disappointed in how it was built.

Since he asked publicly, I'd love to hear as well. I'm running his DC shaft and would like to be as informed as possible, and maybe head off a future problem.

-Spike

 

[landtank]

It wasn't one of your current shafts, it was an older one. From what I was told and shown the part of the CV joint where it gets slid into the tubing was smaller than the ID of the tubing and a sleeve was first welded on to the joint and then that assembled piece was slid into the tubing and welded into place. I'm assuming this is do to the fact that the yoke used required a larger tubing ID than that of the CV joint but I'm not sure.

This seems like an easy way to make getting the head aligned properly real difficult.

I had him look at the shaft on Friday around noon and told him to toss it, I can try to get it back if you want to look at it.

 

[landtank]

Since he asked publicly, I'd love to hear as well. I'm running his DC shaft and would like to be as informed as possible, and maybe head off a future problem.

-Spike

if you are not having any problems just keep the thing greased and if you haven't been using moly fortified grease on the centering section start.

 

[sleeoffroad]

It wasn't one of your current shafts, it was an older one. From what I was told and shown the part of the CV joint where it gets slid into the tubing was smaller than the ID of the tubing and a sleeve was first welded on to the joint and then that assembled piece was slid into the tubing and welded into place. I'm assuming this is do to the fact that the yoke used required a larger tubing ID than that of the CV joint but I'm not sure.

This seems like an easy way to make getting the head aligned properly real difficult.

I had him look at the shaft on Friday around noon and told him to toss it, I can try to get it back if you want to look at it.

Ok, thanks that explains it. We are aware that they do that. You are correct that it had to do with the OD of the slip joint part and and the CV part. In the ideal world, we would like to see both the same so that a simple tube can be used. Unfortunately that is not possible. So it either has to step up to work. It might not be the ideal solution to fit a sleeve but I am pretty sure they can care to align it properly.

Did your shop have any suggestions on how to do it different?

My first choice would still be new Toyota oe parts, but that gets expensive in a hurry.

 

[landtank]

Did your shop have any suggestions on how to do it different?

Yes, they said that they could build up an entire new shaft from scratch. I can't remember what brand they were going to use for the source parts but they said they were comparable to OEM and would avoid the sleeve problem. The guestimate on cost was $500.00.

That will be my next step if these used shafts don't hold up.

 

[sleeoffroad]

We have searched high and low to find a Koyo brand CV unit. I would be amazed if they can find it. We found some that were the same design, but not the same quality.

 

[landtank]

We have searched high and low to find a Koyo brand CV unit. I would be amazed if they can find it. We found some that were the same design, but not the same quality.

It wasn't Koyo brand but some other high quality supplier. Once he mentioned the price I stopped being interested. I'll look around the web and see if a name rings a bell.

 

[Badger Den]

I've done the search and am actitvely hunting down the rear DC section of the Tacoma xtra cab 2 piece rear driveshaft as a bolt in for the 80 front. My question is length - one of the articles references a 30.5" length for the 80, but my flange to flange is 31 3/4" and I am hoping that is enough to avoid the shortening exercise. I can get it done at a local shop, just looking at total project budget including Taco driveshaft, shortening/balancing if needed, factory rubber replacing OME CC bushings in the arms, and "washer mod". I am thinking the whole thing may be doable for about $300 and I'll have some stuff to sell afterwards (stock driveshaft & OME CC bushings). $300 is about the cost of just a new custom DC driveshaft.

So if any of you measured, would appreciate the length.

Nay

Anyone know if the rear on the 2 wheel drive Tacoma shaft is the same as the 4x4? I know that some of them are so low to the ground... thought they may not have the DC joint.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Badger Den]

Ok, I found in another thread... any rear shaft from an extended or dbl cab will have the DC. 95.5-04

 

[NorCal97]

From the below linked thread: "The most common has been to find a rear shaft off an '95.5-'04 extra or double cab Tacoma."

Double Cardan Drive Shaft Solutions

After lifting an 80 series past a certain point and or correcting the front castor to account for the lift, a double cardan (DC) joint drive shaft will be needed. Slee Off-Road offers an excellent solution with all new quality Spicer joints and also a local drive shaft shop can make any custom...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Badger Den]

From the below linked thread: "The most common has been to find a rear shaft off an '95.5-'04 extra or double cab Tacoma."

Double Cardan Drive Shaft Solutions

After lifting an 80 series past a certain point and or correcting the front castor to account for the lift, a double cardan (DC) joint drive shaft will be needed. Slee Off-Road offers an excellent solution with all new quality Spicer joints and also a local drive shaft shop can make any custom...

forum.ih8mud.com

But based on the other thread I found, It doesn’t need to be a 4wd Tacoma Though. That was my original question