T-case oil strainer?

[RavenTai]

I was looking through the FSM for the torque on the t-case drain and fill plugs, I cannot find it but I did find a drawing of a "Oil strainer". is this a filter of sorts? can you get to it from the outside?

should it be removed and cleaned? is a new gasket needed?

 

[robbie]

never seen one, but I can look on monday at the FSM and see if it indeed is something we can look at or a missprint in the manual. later robbie

 

[RavenTai]

Thanks Robbie, in my 96 FSM it is shown in the large "TRANSFER ASSEMBLY
COMPONENTS" diagram that is an exploded diagram of the entire transfer case,

I looked at my T-case and I cannot find anything like that (oblong with 2 bolts) accesable from the exterior but I may not be looking in the right plase, the pic is not very detailed about where it goes

 

[Scamper]

Same thing is in the '97 FSM. Looks as if it might be accessible from the rear, but you might have to have removed some suff first. Really difficult to follow all those dashed lines after a few beers...

Never even thought to look for a screen on the T-case. But then...never had a reason to as well

 

[RavenTai]

Same thing is in the '97 FSM. Looks as if it might be accessible from the rear, but you might have to have removed some suff first. Really difficult to follow all those dashed lines after a few beers...

Never even thought to look for a screen on the T-case. But then...never had a reason to as well

LOL I tried both with and without beer and I cannot figure out exacly where those dotted lines go either,

 

[bjowett]

The strainer for the t-case oil pump is inside the rear extension housing, but bolted to the back of the main case.

 

[reffug]

LOL I tried both with and without beer and I cannot figure out exacly where those dotted lines go either,

This is reason why sometimes I just don't comment.

 

[RavenTai]

The strainer for the t-case oil pump is inside the rear extension housing, but bolted to the back of the main case.

Ok so it gets cleaned only when the T-case is opened up,

Thanks for the Info


Slight hijack, drained the Delo out of the that I put in shortly after purchase (12k ago) and in the T-case it was quite dark and smelled really bad (strong sulphur smell wich is odd because Delo does not have much sulphur in it) , had a dark greenish brown color and the drain stream was not even close to translucent, much worse than the rear diff that was filled at the same time it was just slightly darker than when I put it in and did not smell that bad, wont get into the front diff in this thread ( )

This summer I got brought my IR thermometer on a road trip and the Tcase was just as hot as the oil pan (190F+ IIRC) with the transmission and diffs being much cooler

Put in M1 ATF/Gear in the trans/T-case/rear diff, hopefully it will fair better

 

[robbie]

My thoughts on this are the VC with a center diff creates more heat than a part time t-case, this coupled with the smaller capacity for this t-case leads to the fluid getting(breaking down) old quicker. It might be better to change this lube more often. Just my thoughts. later robbie

 

[RavenTai]

My thoughts on this are the VC with a center diff creates more heat than a part time t-case, this coupled with the smaller capacity for this t-case leads to the fluid getting(breaking down) old quicker. It might be better to change this lube more often. Just my thoughts. later robbie

That makes sense, it is only 2 quarts (+/-) , even with thigh cost of synthetic I think I can affors every 15K or so in the T-case, hopefully at that rate on synthetic is will stay fairly clean, if not I'll move to every oil change for a wile

 

[bjowett]

Another option - since there is a pump in the rear housing, a cooler could be fit. Not sure how easy it would be, probably would require a couple of holes be drilled/tapped and maybe a pipe plug or two.

 

[robbie]

THe pump is used for pushing lube through the enter of the out put shafts that hopefully not plugged up. every one I have opened has been plugged, needing a good cleaning. These holes allow the fluid to go on the other side of the sealed bearing (do not totally understand the need for sealed here), and maybe to keep the seal area cleaner and the bearing cooler?. it is a small thing but may help the center diff live longer. I will look at the diagrams here shortly and see if a cooler may be added. later robbie

 

[Rookie2]

wont get into the front diff in this thread ( )

RT-

I've been using Delo in the diffs and M1 in the t-case. I'd be interested what you found in the front. Have you done a front axle service yet, or are you still getting some contamination after doing the front axle job??

Thanks,
Rookie2

 

[robbie]

I think trying to add a cooler would not be that good of an Ideal off this pump. I will look at this when I go to the shed and get the case we have and and look at it. If you wanted to add a cooler it might be a good idea to add one with a external electric pump to circulate the fluid. I can not even think of a pump that would work with a thick lube like gear lube. This would have a better control over the fluid because you could set it to pump on thermal conditions versus all the time. Looking at the book, there seems to be a pressure relief valve in the circuit and the passages are looking to be real small. I do not think I would want to drill and tap into them. later robbie

 

[landtoy80]

When my t-case failed it was a heat issue. It would get so hot you couldn't even touch it.
It took 3 to 4 hours to cool enough so the VC to unlock. That was after I took a hose to it some time between hour 3 and 4. IT WAS HOT.

When I drained and took it apart the flund was M1 was clean and internal parts show no sign of being to hot (no blue balls ..... in the bearings)

 

[RavenTai]

Another option - since there is a pump in the rear housing, a cooler could be fit. Not sure how easy it would be, probably would require a couple of holes be drilled/tapped and maybe a pipe plug or two.

That is a interesting idea but deeper than I want to go for now, already have a lot on my plate, it would also increase the T-Cases gear oil capacity, that would also help with fluid deterioration

THe pump is used for pushing lube through the center of the out put shafts that hopefully not plugged up. every one I have opened has been plugged, needing a good cleaning. These holes allow the fluid to go on the other side of the sealed bearing (do not totally understand the need for sealed here), and maybe to keep the seal area cleaner and the bearing cooler?. it is a small thing but may help the center diff live longer. I will look at the diagrams here shortly and see if a cooler may be added. later robbie

Do you think these are plugged up to so bad that they do not flow at all or just have build-up on the walls of the passage but still flows? If they are still flowing then hopefully good clean lube can slowly clean them?

How deep do you have to go to check for this? Can you pull one of the extension housings off and see it?

RT-

I've been using Delo in the diffs and M1 in the t-case. I'd be interested what you found in the front. Have you done a front axle service yet, or are you still getting some contamination after doing the front axle job??

Thanks,
Rookie2

Don’t think it has anything to do with the Delo, from the way it held up in the rear diff (color wise and very little junk on the magnet)

I did a birf repack shortly after buying the truck, I am getting heavy grease contamination of the gear lube, the stuff that came out of the front diff was a runny version of diff soup, and unlike the T-case and rear diff there was some foam in the fluid (I had just driven it) and the magnet had more metal and of larger size than the other 2 gear oil cases, I don’t think my front diff likes gear oil/grease mix

So far no gear lube in the knuckles (RT knock’s on wood repeatedly) so not all hope is lost, just this weekend I did the breather mod, maybe the flapper on the breather was cause low pressure in the diff to drag grease in from the knuckles and hopefully now the different lubes will stay where they belong, like IdahoDoug found, if it is contaminated again after the breather mod I will have to go back in to the knuckles to at least replace the oil seals maybe more

When my t-case failed it was a heat issue. It would get so hot you couldn't even touch it.
It took 3 to 4 hours to cool enough so the VC to unlock. That was after I took a hose to it some time between hour 3 and 4. IT WAS HOT.

When I drained and took it apart the flund was M1 was clean and internal parts show no sign of being to hot (no blue balls ..... in the bearings)

Was the VC overheating the T-case or was something else in the T-case overheating the VC? Did you ever get to the bottom of it? IIRC you got a new T-case from Toyota?

 

[landtoy80]

I had the front drive shaft off with the CDL locked so the VC was locked out (the VC can't spin and make heat/friction) and the case still got hot enough to lock the VC when I unlocked the CDL.
It only would get hot enough when driving at 65+mpg.

One theory is the over greased or hyro-locked rear drive shaft.

What is "IIRC" ???
I have gotten several t-cases from Toyota

 

[Scamper]

IIRC = If I Remember Correctly

Geeze Kurt...how long you been reading stuff on boards?

 

[Dan_J-spec_fj62]

i belive IIRC is If I Recall Correctly... i think..

dan

 

[landtoy80]

<Geeze Kurt...how long you been reading stuff on boards?>

I usually ignore those those internet trems as there are tooooo many to me to understand.
The wife printed a sheet of many of them but the IIRC wasn't on it.