Sway Bar Link extension?

[Climbingnut]

I have a non-KDSS VDJ200 and after having lifted it 50mm front and 20mm rear with OME-BP-51’s and appropriate rear coils a couple years ago, I’m at the place where I need to consider replacing my front and rear sway bar links. The front links are beginning to show the rubber in the lower mount tearing away, and the rears are showing weather wear and have the sway bar kicked up a high angle.

Does anyone make simple 20mm drop brackets for the rear sway bar links? This way I can stay with OEM links, and make the adjustment at the mount. Secondly, for the front links, what are my options there? Non-KDSS is not common in the USA, but I thought I’d reach out for thoughts anyways.

 

[Climbingnut]

In the below image you can see the angle of the rear sway bar. If there is a mounting bracket with an additional 20mm of length, that would solve my problems for both sides.

In this photo you can see the rubber beginning to separate. I could just replace the link, but with only 55k kms on it, I have a feeling this is premature wear based on the angle of operation and extreme usage. If I can get longer links or something to drop the sway bar down, that would save the life of the links moving forward.

 

[linuxgod]

The only extended links I've seen for the front are for the Tundra. Someone else on the forum runs them and said they work, though IIRC they had to grind a bit off one as it was contacting the tie rod. I've not tried these so I can't speak to them.

Tundra 2007-2021 Toyota 4wd & 2wd (w/4.5" to 7" Lift) - Front Adjustable Sway Bar End Links by BDS Suspension

FREE SHIPPING !! on orders +$149, exclusions apply

www.jackit.com

There are some extended links available for the rear though I've only seen them for KDSS rigs.

Sway Bar Link Kit 200 Series Landcruiser KDSS - RH Rear

Sway Bar Extended Link Kit 200 Series Landcruiser KDSS - RH Rear - RoadSafe 4WD

www.the4wdshed.com

Sway Bar Dropped Link Kit 200 Series Landcruiser KDSS - LH Rear

Sway Bar Dropped Link Kit 200 Series Landcruiser KDSS - LH Rear - RoadSafe 4WD

www.the4wdshed.com

What's the rear sway bar link length? Could use use the extended links from a 100 series?

Sway Bar Extension Kit 100 Series Landcruiser - Rear

Sway Bar Extension Kit 100 Series Landcruiser - Rear - RoadSafe 4WD - Extended 20mm 2"+

www.the4wdshed.com

BTW I'm not sure the bolt sizes but there are a lot of "generic" adjustable sway bar end link options here, so maybe one of these might work for the front as well?

Steering and Suspension Sway Bar Sway Bar Link Kits

Sway Bar Link Kits - Steering and Suspension Sway Bar Sway Bar Link Kits

www.the4wdshed.com

 

[Climbingnut]

The only extended links I've seen for the front are for the Tundra. Someone else on the forum runs them and said they work, though IIRC they had to grind a bit off one as it was contacting the tie rod. I've not tried these so I can't speak to them.

Tundra 2007-2021 Toyota 4wd & 2wd (w/4.5" to 7" Lift) - Front Adjustable Sway Bar End Links by BDS Suspension

FREE SHIPPING !! on orders +$149, exclusions apply

www.jackit.com

There are some extended links available for the rear though I've only seen them for KDSS rigs.

Sway Bar Link Kit 200 Series Landcruiser KDSS - RH Rear

Sway Bar Extended Link Kit 200 Series Landcruiser KDSS - RH Rear - RoadSafe 4WD

www.the4wdshed.com

Sway Bar Dropped Link Kit 200 Series Landcruiser KDSS - LH Rear

Sway Bar Dropped Link Kit 200 Series Landcruiser KDSS - LH Rear - RoadSafe 4WD

www.the4wdshed.com

What's the rear sway bar link length? Could use use the extended links from a 100 series?

Sway Bar Extension Kit 100 Series Landcruiser - Rear

Sway Bar Extension Kit 100 Series Landcruiser - Rear - RoadSafe 4WD - Extended 20mm 2"+

www.the4wdshed.com

BTW I'm not sure the bolt sizes but there are a lot of "generic" adjustable sway bar end link options here, so maybe one of these might work for the front as well?

Steering and Suspension Sway Bar Sway Bar Link Kits

Sway Bar Link Kits - Steering and Suspension Sway Bar Sway Bar Link Kits

www.the4wdshed.com

Thanks for all the links. I’ve seen a lot of the 100 series ones and wondered a similar thing.

I’ve also spied Slee and Trail Tailor’s KDSS front sway bar relocation bracket, and wondering if that wouldn’t do a similar thing. Drop the front sway bar down 2” to get the front links a bit closer to factory tolerances?

Either way, I’ll check out the links and will measure the rear links to see if the extended 100 links will do. Or, even better if the drop brackets will do.

 

[TeCKis300]

It's arguable whether this needs to be done.

IFS lifts generally don't change suspension stroke limits*. Different to solid axle lifts, which do generally change the suspension stroke. Only the neutral ride height point is changed. The factory links/geometry and bushings are validated to support the normal full range of travel.

*some suspensions do come with longer shocks increasing the overall stroke in the droop direction.

I would be cautious to change the length of the links by the change in ride height. Maybe bias it mildly but not the full length. Maybe a 1/4" spacer in the rear axle link bracket? That may cause the links to bind or outright fail at the ends of suspension travel. Increasing the length would make sense to support added droop travel, but may or may not cause interference on the compression side.

Another thing that could be done is to relieve and re-orient the end link bushings at ride height (Undo and retorque at new ride height). So the bushings are neutral at the nominal position. This will stress the bushings more at the extents of compression, but that's the more rare occurrence. These bushing do wear, and it probably wouldn't be bad to refresh them every say 150-200k miles, depending on use.

 

[bloc]

It's arguable whether this needs to be done.

IFS lifts generally don't change suspension stroke limits*. Different to solid axle lifts, which do generally change the suspension stroke. Only the neutral ride height point is changed. The factory links/geometry and bushings are validated to support the normal full range of travel.

*some suspensions do come with longer shocks increasing the overall stroke in the droop direction.

I would be cautious to change the length of the links by the change in ride height. Maybe bias it mildly but not the full length. Maybe a 1/4" spacer in the rear axle link bracket? That may cause the links to bind or outright fail at the ends of suspension travel. Increasing the length would make sense to support added droop travel, but may or may not cause interference on the compression side.

Another thing that could be done is to relieve and re-orient the end link bushings at ride height (Undo and retorque at new ride height). So the bushings are neutral at the nominal position. This will stress the bushings more at the extents of compression, but that's the more rare occurrence. These bushing do wear, and it probably wouldn't be bad to refresh them every say 150-200k miles, depending on use.

The issue here is the arc of travel of the ends of the front bar means when you lift the vehicle, the top of the link moves forward. This takes the lower end out of perpendicular and stretches the rubber on the top rear and bottom front of the bushing, resulting in tears. I'm not sure how significant these tears are to operation, but they definitely happen. Mine showed dry rot and tearing with only the 10mm strut spacer, but up to 150k miles. Pretty sure if I checked mine now they'd be ugly. They are pretty expensive though, so I haven't put them on the PM list just yet.

I agree with changing link length potentially causing other clearance issues, but something like a bend in the front links to restore perpendicular of the lower bushing at the new ride height could reduce stress on the bushing. Or yes a "50%" approach which would mitigate some of the bad geometry without pushing things too far.

 

[linuxgod]

Thanks for all the links. I’ve seen a lot of the 100 series ones and wondered a similar thing.

I’ve also spied Slee and Trail Tailor’s KDSS front sway bar relocation bracket, and wondering if that wouldn’t do a similar thing. Drop the front sway bar down 2” to get the front links a bit closer to factory tolerances?

Either way, I’ll check out the links and will measure the rear links to see if the extended 100 links will do. Or, even better if the drop brackets will do.

The KDSS relo doesn't drop the link. All it does is push the sway bar forward. If you don't have KDSS it probably doesn't mount to your rig but even if it did arguably it only makes the problem worse as your sway bar is now further forward and technically needs the end links to be slightly longer to accommodate.

 

[Climbingnut]

What’s crazy is these bushings only have 55k kms on them. We’re talking roughly 34k miles, albeit likely half of them off-road. I’m wondering if it’s just a case of use and abuse from the bush, or if the bad angles are contributing to premature wear. If I could fix the angles and in doing so cause the links to last twice as long, that would be money and time well spent. If fixing the angles still means I’m looking to change bushings again after another 50 kms or so, then I may just keep them OEM size and type, and live with it.

 

[linuxgod]

What’s crazy is these bushings only have 55k kms on them. We’re talking roughly 34k miles, albeit likely half of them off-road. I’m wondering if it’s just a case of use and abuse from the bush, or if the bad angles are contributing to premature wear. If I could fix the angles and in doing so cause the links to last twice as long, that would be money and time well spent. If fixing the angles still means I’m looking to change bushings again after another 50 kms or so, then I may just keep them OEM size and type, and live with it.

On KDSS-equipped vehicles, the KDSS relo tweaks the bushings quite a bit, angling them forward towards the front bumper. That's known to cause significantly premature wear (to the point that I believe Slee actually notes that on their website). So depending on the angle, yeah it's possible.

I'm assuming those end links were last tightened while the vehicle was raised in the air. If your end links aren't under significant stress (angles) when you're on the ground, I'd start with replacing them but when you bolt everything together don't torque them down until you're sitting on the ground in your "resting" position. Lower shock bolts (bushings) are supposed to be done the same way so you might wish to loosen them and then retorque while down on all fours.

 

[CharlieS]

If you live in a place where you have access to cheap labor and fabrication shops, could a set be cut, extended, and rewelded - possibly even sleeved to reinforce them?

Another thought is to post in a forum that has more international participation - middle east, russia, australia - you might have more options. For example, I know there is a Facebook group for 200 series fitout australia...

 

[Climbingnut]

On KDSS-equipped vehicles, the KDSS relo tweaks the bushings quite a bit, angling them forward towards the front bumper. That's known to cause significantly premature wear (to the point that I believe Slee actually notes that on their website). So depending on the angle, yeah it's possible.

I'm assuming those end links were last tightened while the vehicle was raised in the air. If your end links aren't under significant stress (angles) when you're on the ground, I'd start with replacing them but when you bolt everything together don't torque them down until you're sitting on the ground in your "resting" position. Lower shock bolts (bushings) are supposed to be done the same way so you might wish to loosen them and then retorque while down on all fours.

Now that is some good advice.

I’ve got some visitors coming in the next 2 weeks. I’ll have some new front links come with them and will see about the extended 100 series links for the rear. Then tighten them down at normal ride height.

 

[Climbingnut]

If you live in a place where you have access to cheap labor and fabrication shops, could a set be cut, extended, and rewelded - possibly even sleeved to reinforce them?

Another thought is to post in a forum that has more international participation - middle east, russia, australia - you might have more options. For example, I know there is a Facebook group for 200 series fitout australia...

I post up regularly in the South African Landcruiser club. I stay on Mud though as there’s different thoughts, experiences and options. Being an American living in Southern Africa, I have the options of some things I can source in the USA and some things in South Africa. So it pays to be connected to both.