so i am about to buy my suspension upgrade and i thinkg i am going to go with a rough country 6" lift. what i really want is the rough country 6" lift with the total chaos 3.5" long travel kit. does anyone know if that is possible. i want the height and the versatility of the long travel kit. any suggestions. also any sugestions on full skid plates would also be great. thanx
Suspension question
- Thread starter brise27
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Im not sure if they are compatible however if you are willing to fork out the money I would just go with the 3.5 TC kit, overall this will give you more travel and you wont have to install the drop down bracket that is required for the 6 in lift, the TC kit also wont make you as top heavy as a 6in lift.
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- #4
awesome info please give more
thanks for the info guys. it was my understanding that the long travel kit actually widened the wheel base by about 2 inch on each tire. so if you look at that and do the math... its only as if you had a 4'" lift when it comes to being top heavy. as far as the tc 3.5 i have seen it in action except racing around on the dirt but not in mud or water or rocks
thanks for the info guys. it was my understanding that the long travel kit actually widened the wheel base by about 2 inch on each tire. so if you look at that and do the math... its only as if you had a 4'" lift when it comes to being top heavy. as far as the tc 3.5 i have seen it in action except racing around on the dirt but not in mud or water or rocks
The 3.5 TC lift is race proven however it is my understanding that the 2.0 TC lift is more for all around wheeling they actually posted pics on their website of the FJ rock Crawling with this lift.
wouldnt do the 6 in if u do that im shure ur going with 35s and if u do that and dont re gear u loose 5th gear , id saty with the tc kit more stabel and better ride
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check this out
yeah im still pretty new to the whole lifted trucks thing. honestly i have been more or a fast car guy but the fj has always caught my attention and now the bug has got ahold of me. i have spoken to icon and this is what they said. " We do offer the ICON 5-8641 - 6" - 7" Lift Adjustable Coil-over Shock.
These coil-over shocks will bolt on to any 2007- Current FJ Cruiser that has
a Rough Country 6" Lift Kit installed on to it. These shocks replace the
supplied top load spacer/factory shock combination with a 2.5" Diameter Fine
Tuned Race Style Coil-over. These shocks are built specifically around the
RC Drop Down brackets and will increase performance, enhance ride quality
and improve handling all at the same time to your lifted FJ.
Please let us know if you need any more information." now honestly i dont really know if these help the cv joints or what. or can anyone else see any details of problems that might arise from this set up.
yeah im still pretty new to the whole lifted trucks thing. honestly i have been more or a fast car guy but the fj has always caught my attention and now the bug has got ahold of me. i have spoken to icon and this is what they said. " We do offer the ICON 5-8641 - 6" - 7" Lift Adjustable Coil-over Shock.
These coil-over shocks will bolt on to any 2007- Current FJ Cruiser that has
a Rough Country 6" Lift Kit installed on to it. These shocks replace the
supplied top load spacer/factory shock combination with a 2.5" Diameter Fine
Tuned Race Style Coil-over. These shocks are built specifically around the
RC Drop Down brackets and will increase performance, enhance ride quality
and improve handling all at the same time to your lifted FJ.
Please let us know if you need any more information." now honestly i dont really know if these help the cv joints or what. or can anyone else see any details of problems that might arise from this set up.
If I was going 6" I would also have to strongly consider new CV axels, TC drop down, brake line extensions, 35"+ tires, regearing front and rear and maybe installation of Marlin Crawler. So many other things that have to be updated to make it work safely and reliably that the lift is just part of the equation in my opinion.
If you just want a lift for wheeling on 90% of what everyone here is doing...then I would strongly recommend a 3" lift and 33-34" tires at most.
Good luck whatever you decide.
If you just want a lift for wheeling on 90% of what everyone here is doing...then I would strongly recommend a 3" lift and 33-34" tires at most.
Good luck whatever you decide.
If you went with just an Icon coilover set up you get almost 10 full inches of travel, a 6 in lift doesnt really improve ground clearance because you still have the drop down bracket. Its only plus is it fits 35in tires however will a few mods you can run 35s on a 3in lift, however like they have stated above 33 or 34in tires means you wont have to regear.
1911
chupacabra
Re-gearing consists of replacing the ring and pinion gears in both differentials with ones of a different ratio. Unless your truck is brand new, you'll want to use master install kits with all new carrier bearings and etc. too. When I re-geared mine more than a year ago, front and rear 4.56 gears and master install kits were $1,200 shipped from JT's. Then there's labor to install if you're not going to do it yourself. Fair amount of work to tear down both diffs.
You don't need a 6" lift in order to fit 35" tires and it doesn't take more than doing a body mount chop to do it. At least for my size tire (35X10.50X16), I ran them with OME 886/895 and ICON's now in front instead of the OME 886's...
Stuffed in the rear, clearing the fender w/o problem...
Stuffed in the rear, clearing the fender w/o problem...
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The All Pro 2" wider (per side) kit is adjustable up to 5" of total lift, and when set between 3-4" has 12" of travel. There are no drop brackets and you get true lift in addition to the added stability from the track sidth and extra travel.
EDIT: Hey MTB, where is the trail pictured in your post?
EDIT: Hey MTB, where is the trail pictured in your post?
Could I chime in here with a couple questions?
My understanding is to run larger tires with other than 6” lift you need to cut/shorten the body mounts and then have metal stock welded across the cut to “replace” the structural strength. This allows larger tires to turn but not rub at extreme left/right. Not sure if this is accurate but that’s my understanding. It also seems that you need to install bump stops to limit upward wheel travel as well to keep the larger tires from hitting the top inside of the fenders. Again, not sure if this is accurate but that’s my understanding.
So has anybody installed a body lift to compensate for the upward travel instead of using bump stops? It looks to me like “bump stops” are only a few inches maybe 1.5”-1.75” so I’m not talking about a silly six inch spacer like some of the pick-up truck guys I’ve seen (no offence to you pick-up truck guys) I’m talking about a hockey puck lift of maybe 1 inch.
Second question, does the bump stop not ultimately limit wheel travel by limiting upward travel and wouldn’t a hockey puck lift accomplish the same function?
Last question, has anyone installed Bushwhacker fender flairs and do they increase the upward travel possible of the wheel? It looks like they install above the location of the stock rubber flairs and could possibly increase wheel travel.
Thanks in advance for your opinions, experience or ideas…
My understanding is to run larger tires with other than 6” lift you need to cut/shorten the body mounts and then have metal stock welded across the cut to “replace” the structural strength. This allows larger tires to turn but not rub at extreme left/right. Not sure if this is accurate but that’s my understanding. It also seems that you need to install bump stops to limit upward wheel travel as well to keep the larger tires from hitting the top inside of the fenders. Again, not sure if this is accurate but that’s my understanding.
So has anybody installed a body lift to compensate for the upward travel instead of using bump stops? It looks to me like “bump stops” are only a few inches maybe 1.5”-1.75” so I’m not talking about a silly six inch spacer like some of the pick-up truck guys I’ve seen (no offence to you pick-up truck guys) I’m talking about a hockey puck lift of maybe 1 inch.
Second question, does the bump stop not ultimately limit wheel travel by limiting upward travel and wouldn’t a hockey puck lift accomplish the same function?
Last question, has anyone installed Bushwhacker fender flairs and do they increase the upward travel possible of the wheel? It looks like they install above the location of the stock rubber flairs and could possibly increase wheel travel.
Thanks in advance for your opinions, experience or ideas…
Running a tire as large as a 285 will require a body mount chop regardless of the lift. And, much of that depends upon the width of the tire as much as the diameter. This also depends on what users feel is an acceptable amount of "rub". Some don't rub driving around town but as soon as you get off-road, they rub...
I haven't installed extended bump stops on my rig and don't have any problems with hitting the top of the fenders. Again, this has to do with width, one reason I'm running a 35 X 10.50...
Of course it would, the reason I wouldn't do it just to run 35" tires...
Bushwhackers mount in the same place as the stock flares and offer no additional benefit other than being wider...
I have the bushwacker flares simply because they are wider and In California I have gotten pulled over because my tires stuck out past the body and i needed a cover so the flares were my quick fix, there is a guy that builds a body lift for the FJ however i dont remember who he is you can google it and it comes up. The problem with a body lift is that it leaves a gap between bumper and body and you have to extend boots and what not in the cab for your shifter. I would do the body mount chop and run 34s. If you want to do a regear and are going to pay for the labor the price seems to sit at right around 1800.