Suspension install thread - Tips and Questions (1 Viewer)

[jgordon]

Hey,

I ordered an OME 2.5 inch lift (dakkar springs, etc.) after much research and discussion. Going to put it on myself, and I thought I'd compile useful information about the process to help others, as well as ask some stupid questions so others don't have to.

So here's what I've learned:

1 - use lots of penetrating oil on your bolts weeks in advance

2 - tools needed include:
Large flat head screwdriver
Pry bar
17mm socket for pins and shackles
2-14mm wrenches for front driveshaft bolts (in the way of the sledge for the front passenger frame pin)
12mm socket for frame pin plates
23MM? (not sure, check first)socket will also use to help pound new frame pins in
Large Pipe wrench-for twisting frame pin plates
Grease
New bushings-Local 4x4 shop
New frame pins-Wardens $12 each and they are greasable.
New shackles-Wardens too
NEW U-bolts and nuts-these also get stressed over the years
New shocks (longer for lift)
8 cotter pins-For shocks
Liquid wrench
3 - Take the wheels and tires off, so all work you're doing is closer to the ground

4 - If using OME, the longer/more arched rear spring goes on the driver's side to correct cruiser lean

5 - Anti-inversion shackles:
- triangle points into center of vehicle
- long side points down
- shorter in front, longer in rear

6 - Disconnect grease zerk on driveshaft slip joint to allow it to compress (have something to catch the grease)

7 - Brake lines not mandatory on 2.5 inch lifts - needed on 4 inches and up


Helpful threads:
Bushing install thread
Bushing / swaybar discussion
Rubber isolater discussion
Drive shaft discussion
General install and resource discussion
CCOT prep and install instructions
OME and 31 vs. 33 inch tire discussion
Wandering after suspension discussion
Whether to keep the stock bracket/spacer after lift
General install advice

Stupid Questions:

When people say to use a thin film of grease for bushing install, and then to grease the bushings once they are installed, what kind of grease should you use?

Which way should the springs be oriented? is it military wrap out or in?

What kind of puller is needed for the steering stabilizer? I've heard it discussed, but no mention of which tool to use.

Any other tips to be added?

Thanks. Hope this helps some people out.

 

[philos1]

sounds like you've pretty much got it, tho I didn't even touch my driveshafts when i did mine... took me a few hours by myself- in the driveway- with floor jacks and stands; friends help out a lot when it comes to getting the assemblies back together (lining up center pins/axles, etc...)

pics when you get it finished are obligatory...

 

[agent orange]

x2 on the driveshafts, i left mine in and supported the axle under the tubes and the pinion so i could drop the springs, put the new ones on, then just drop the axle back down.

I used a pickle fork for my steering stabilizer as well as tie rods and such. Actually, i didnt take it off to do the lift though. NAPA sells a good pickle fork, get the narrowest one they have.

Way to go assembling all that info for people, this should go in the FAQ. Mods?

-Matt

 

[HighPlainsDrifter]

Something I once read somewhere a long time ago said to scuff sand ALL (inside and out) the shine off your poly bushings,then grease em' up before putting them in.All the bushings I've done came with a small tube of grease,so I don't know what to say about the grease to use.I would suppose that lithium grease would be a good way to go.I haven't tried the greasable shackles yet,but i've used the "scuff sand" method on 2 rigs of my own and a few of my buddies have done the same on there's.We haven't heard a squeak out of any of them.So you might give that a shot.The new project in the driveway will probably get some fancy-pants shackles that I can run some grease through for some silky smooth riding comfort .Oh yeah!
Good luck with your truck.
-Rob

 

[The Ox]

use lots and lot and lots of penetrating oil on your old spring pins,
mine were a bitc# to get out!
as for grease i used NLGI No.2

no joke but some knee pads would have helped!
my knees were killing me the following week after the install.

 

[FJ40Jim]

When people say to use a thin film of grease for bushing install, and then to grease the bushings once they are installed, what kind of grease should you use?

Moly-lith. same stuff used for packing CV joints.

Which way should the springs be oriented? is it military wrap out or in?

The military wrap goes to the fixed eye.

What kind of puller is needed for the steering stabilizer? I've heard it discussed, but no mention of which tool to use.

I use a pickle fork. It's going in the trash, so just wham it off of there.

 

[Dirty Toad]

I have the same lift and love it!

Take the wheels and tires off, so all work you're doing is closer to the ground

I left my wheels on. used 2 high lift jacks one on either side of the bumper and lifted once all the bolts were loose. really made it easy.

Brake lines not mandatory on 2.5 inch lifts - needed on 4 inches and up

I kept the stock lines and now they are leaking from being streached to their limits. I am going to change them now....not right now, but really soon.

 

[beatdown83fj60]

Penetrating oil for weeks, very important. I sprayed mine down with PB Blaster for about 5 weeks, and wheeled the piss out of it and it seemed to help a lot, two of the spring pins even pulled out without much beating. I also sprayed down all the bolts that held on the shackles, spare tire winch, and the sway bar as well, and I removed the sway bar altogether. Not a bad effect on handling, but noticeable. If I went higher than the 2 inches I did I would have got extended disconnects. The spare tire does get annoying when you are under there, so I took mine out.

I would get a torch, a little bottle of MAP gas would be the best but I did mine with a little propane bottle on the ones that were a real booger and it worked fine, just took longer to get it warm enough. I would just buy spring pins, even the ones that seem to be in good shape have some kind of rust on them. I haven't replaced mine yet (lift on for about 2 weeks now) but I did smooth them up really good with some emery cloth before re-installing so they wouldn't eat the bushings up. They are still in pretty good shape, although not perfect.

BFH- A large hammer and a good assortment of prybars is very helpful. Torsion bars from IFS vehicles work great for keeping the springs from inverting when putting the vehicles weight on them. Also if you don't have lock washers for your U-Bolts (my BDS u-bolts didn't come with them) then re-use the old ones, they are important. If you plan on reusing shackle bolts or spring pins, I'd reccomend a brass drift to put up against the nut, just because it's a good tool to have for a lot of purposes, and I have smashed a few nuts pretty good before beating on them with a hammer, couldn't find a nut to fit a Toyota spring pin at a hardware store on Sunday morning etiher.

Check torque on all bolts that were pulled daily and retorque U-bolts after 500 miles or so. They do loosen more often than not, even if just a little bit, I also used threadlock on mine for reassurance.

I noticed you mentioned the pipe wrench, and it will also be helpful for TRE's if you plan on correcting your steering yourself. It put my steering wheel waaaaayyy off center, but I'm just going to have a local shop do that because I hate doing them and measuring, turning, measuring, and the labor is not that bad at an alignment shop on straight axles. I'd reccomend new links in the steering all around even if the boots aren't blown, you notice way more of the little things wrong after putting a lift on.

Grease gun- get under there when you are done and hit all the u-joints, slip joints, and any other zerk you may see, my truck never had a u-joint vibration until I lifted it, but I hit it with the grease gun and problem solved, they didn't appear to be worn out, but they were pretty dry and I think riding at a new angle caused the vibration.

Other than my little piddly advice, you've got it! Good on you for piecing together the list.

 

[Fearnofish!]

Before I did mine I wish someone had told me not to be afraid of the hacksaw for removing the old ubolts and bushings. For stuck bushings I put the blade through the hole then reattached the frame to carfully saw them out. I also sut off my spare mounting support. That this was a giant pain and locked solid from never having been removed or oiled.

All the other advice is good to. Also I went over my springs with a little sand paper and sprayed them with some anti rust paint (you pick) and that seems to have kept them lookng good after almost a year and a half.
Fish

 

[lovetoski]

Re-aligning the head of the spring pin under the hole in the axle can be tricky, until you figure out how to do it.

For front-to-back movement of the axle, I use a scissors jack and a block of wood. I place the scissors jack on top of the springs, with the base against either the shackle or the fixed eye (depending on which way you need to move the axle). I place an appropriate length block of wood (2X4 works great) from the jack to the axle. Turn the jack to move the axle in fine increments.

For side to side movement, I've used two methods:
To move the spring out (away from center) I use a woodworking bar clamp, placed against the inside of the spring and the outside of the brake drum/disc.
To move the spring in (towards the center) I used a rachet strap wrapped around the two springs.

 

[High Desert]

Do the springs one side at a time, don't take off both sides before putting one side back on. loosen up the side you are not working on at the u-bolts so you can move the axle around. If you take both sides completely apart it is harder to align the new springs.

OME springs are marked for the rear side they go on. Look at the serial numbers on the rear springs the one ending in "A" is the drivers side "B" is the passenger side spring.

I loosend the pin/shackle bolt nuts to just ooutside the thread, used my BFH and wacked the nut end, then just grabbed the pins bolts and pulled them out. Mine was a no rust rig and I soaked them with pb blaster for weeks..a shot every coouple days or so and tried to go out and fles the suspinsion to work the lube into the bushings.

before you take the old springs off lay out the new stuff next to but out of the way of the rig, matching up the ends and have the shocks at the right corners.

Then you are going to be pretty sure they go on correctly. I picked up a spring and turned the wrong way...almost f***ed up really bad...But hey I'm gonna do something stoopid every time I pick up a wrench..

Now you've go too much info...it really an't no big deal, stay organized...

 

[Toadhopper]

Just want to thank you for putting all this together!
It's going to be a great resource for everyone who does the susp upgrade.
I'll be doing my OME HD kit in Dec and will post anything that hasn't been covered.
Toad

 

[jgordon]

Guys,

Thank you for the advice and tips. Hopefully this comes in handy for others doing the same thing. I'll put the system on this weekend, with pics before, during, after, and in the emergency room.

 

[Toadhopper]

Midway through mine.
Once you're ready to put on the new springs, I'd recommend attaching the fixed side first, then the shackle, then alligning the axle.
Also, sawzall a couple spots in the old bushings and they'll come right out.

 

[chicago]

AWESOME LIST, VERY THOUGHT OUT!!!!

My spring pins and shackle hangers...

PB BLASTER!!!!!
BFH
PICKLEFORK

I heated and heated and heated...Finally, I got tired of heating (thought I probably should have gotten a MAP gas assy.) then I threaded the nut back on the bolt whapped it out with a BFH then pickleforked it the rest of the way.
I LOVE MY PICKLE FORK (S)!!!!!

Other tools that SAVED MY LIFE:
Impact wrech
angle grinder (cut off wheel, sanding wheel, wire wheel)

Good luck and again.

Great listing and research!

Chicago