Suspension and RR List

[Muddy Bean]

The past 8 months I've put some $$ into our truck base lining it. Just clicked over 180k and had it in the shop this week for more love and wanted to know what other items to check? These items have just been done:

1. New ARB locking front diff & compressor (Slee installed 8 months ago
2. New ball joints (Slee again) 8 months ago
3. Just had bearings repacked and retorqued
4. Transmission fluid flush
5. Synthetic oil change (Mobil 1 extended perf)
6. New Toyota tie rod ends
7. Had my oem Toyota CV's cleaned and regreased and rebooted with Toyota grease and boots and clamped with pfran clamps.
8. New ceramic brakes all the way around as well as a brake fluid flush with synthetic DOT4 fluid.
9. New General Grabber HTS tires.
10. New coil packs and spark plugs.
11. Front end alignment just yesterday.
12. Front diff, transfer case, rear diff fluids all changed to Royal Purple.

Questions:
1. Do I ever need to mess with rear bearings if not having issues or noise or leakage?
2. What's the first sign of shocks going bad front and back on these trucks?
3. Sway bar links?
4. Is it necessary to flush the cooling system if I'm not having issues?

I know some are anal about preventative maintenance but I like to be balanced and not mess with too much unless it's necessary. As in the cooling system, if it's not giving me issues, is it really necessary to flush it? I know I need a timing belt change and heater T's are on the list, but if I'm missing something, throw it out and I'll add it to my list. But again, I am not anal retentive about this stuff either...I'm not going to change my headlight fluid just because I feel like it.

 

[spressomon]

I would make sure whomever did the brake fluid flush...they used the proper SST to get fluid through the ABS circuit. I think, in addition to doing brake fluid flushes every year...every other year for us lazy types...this goes along way to minimize/eliminate moisture accumulation in the entire brake system.

Unfortunately there is no way to inspect and/or service the rear axle bearings on our semi-float rear axle system without full replacement. Keeping your differential breather(s) unclogged/open goes along way in mitigating pressure build up within the axle housing, etc., from prematurely requiring full R&R of the wheel bearings.

The usual tell-tale sign the rear axle bearings, seal and dust wiper need replacing: When you see evidence of diff lube near the outer portion of the axle and/or brake dust shield, etc.

Sway bar links get UV damaged and/or compressed over time. This is an easy visual inspection to determine if replacement is needed.

Do a full coolant flush at your 90K PM and/or starter swap. I'm a believer in Toyota red.

Shock wear signs: Leaking (look for oil residue); slower damping, especially noticeable on longer fast stretches of washboard.

Lastly at 180K if you have not removed and inspected both rear upper and lower control arms for bushing degradation now is the time. Generally they seem to last ~150K +/-... And you do need to remove the arms to inspect the bushings. I suggest, for long life, maintenance free performance and reliability to stay with OEM bushings; been there, done that.

 

[Scottb4857]

The past 8 months I've put some $$ into our truck base lining it. Just clicked over 180k and had it in the shop this week for more love and wanted to know what other items to check? These items have just been done:

Questions:
1. Do I ever need to mess with rear bearings if not having issues or noise or leakage?
2. What's the first sign of shocks going bad front and back on these trucks?
3. Sway bar links?
4. Is it necessary to flush the cooling system if I'm not having issues?

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View attachment 1041122

Sounds like you've done most everything - but get those heater t's soon. Like many on here I was shocked at how easily it broke the second I touched it.

As for the questions - my opinions only - not a certified Toyo tech.
1. They are grease packed bearings - grease gets old and contaminated over time. If it is always driven on clean roads and kept clean - not extended driving through deep water and mud then it will last a long time. At 180k I would say open it up and put clean grease.
2. Stand on the side and rock the truck. If it sways unevenly in a corner or bounces more than once then shocks are getting weak. If still original they are 17 years old with 180 k miles - pretty much a guarantee they are not still performing like new. But if the ride, feel, and cornering feel good to you then leave em. Suggest finding a friend with newer ones and test drive the difference.
3. Just inspect - if bushings are falling apart or metal grinding or heavily corroded or making noise then change them.
4. The toyota coolant will last a long time. Assuming properly changed at timing belt/water pump service time and not having problems then you're probably good. If you don't know how it was handled or what's in there, then just like everything else you've done baseline it. Lots of discussion on the board as to what to put back in, but after everything else you've done 2 gallons of Toyota red is about $50-$60. If you haven't already done the tb/water pump then wait and do it all at the same time.

Have fun - she is a fine looking ride!

 

[Muddy Bean]

Thanks guys. Very helpful. I'll add control arm bushings to my inspect list. Shocks are cheap enough at some point I'll pony up for a set. They've never been changed in 180k. And TB has never been changed either. I know it will strand me someday but non interference motor so I know I need to do it but not losing sleep. Thanks for tr info on Toyota red coolant. And good info on rear seals/bearings. Truck also has a new driveshaft cause I couldn't get the last one to stop vibrating after a bad ujoint install. Greased up my fittings at that time too. Brake flush was done by be via normal bleed and refill. Fluid looks brand new now, but I supposed this isn't officially a flush?

 

[Scottb4857]

If tb/water pump never done then I would check that antifreeze sooner. It had never been done on the lc I acquired and while not leaking or having problems, there was some buildup and corrosion around the engine side of the water pump housing. Probably a result of mixing types and not maintaining the antifreeze correctly. As said earlier, if yours has never been flushed then you have old and possibly mixed coolant types.

 

[Muddy Bean]

Alrighty then. It's added to the list. Thank you.