To the best of my knowledge the "Perfect Switch" units are solid state relays, not diode type isolators. They should have a lower voltage drop than a diode.
Surepower Batery Isolator Installation Question
- Thread starter Randy88FJ62
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Actually I believe they are FETs configured as ideal diodes. Slight difference, but the important thing is they are solid state and hence no contacts to wear out and do not cause the same voltage drop that real diodes do, while providing true isolation. Relays do not isolate when closed, diodes/ideal diodes do.
When closed/connected the alternator should be the bully in the system and it doesn't much matter if each battery can "see" the other. My experience has been that it only matters when the batteries are connected to each other long term and left to their own devices, which any separator/isolator device is designed to not allow.
We just had the mechanical relays vs. solid state discussion in the Electronic Toys sub-forum. I'm going to agree to disagree with that statement about wear.
We just had the mechanical relays vs. solid state discussion in the Electronic Toys sub-forum. I'm going to agree to disagree with that statement about wear.
If you have an alternator problem then it either won't be charging much at all or it will be charging too much. In the case of the former the separator/isolator will do its job and separate them because tha alt is no longer the bully on the block. If the latter then unless you're paying attention to the voltmeter it really won't matter what type of device you are using, the batteries are still hosed.
As I recall stock there is no protection for either piece. The fusibles are all for power taps, not between the alt and the battery. And they won't protect two dissimilar batteries from killing each other anyway.
There is robust, and then there is unnecessary overkill. I overkill somethings but this isn't one of them. The closest to overkill that I get in this system is that I ultimately do not trust the separator/isolator device and put a marine battery bank manual switch in parallel with it. That way I can take it out of the charging or use circuit should I need or want to.
As I recall stock there is no protection for either piece. The fusibles are all for power taps, not between the alt and the battery. And they won't protect two dissimilar batteries from killing each other anyway.
There is robust, and then there is unnecessary overkill. I overkill somethings but this isn't one of them. The closest to overkill that I get in this system is that I ultimately do not trust the separator/isolator device and put a marine battery bank manual switch in parallel with it. That way I can take it out of the charging or use circuit should I need or want to.
What do you guys think about this:
Finally connected the batteries as it was laying around for a while. To my surprise my setup is not working
I bought the cruiser with the Surepower 1315-200 battery separator which is bidirectional battery separator. The solenoid connects both batteries if either of the batteries are being charged over 13.2 volts. The solenoid would disconnect if either of the battery would go lower then 12.8. The cruiser was bought with solar panel which was connected to the aux baterry that means that there was charge and the solenoid was connected.
Now without the solar panel I am scratching my head , seems that I will have to buy another battery separator now only unidirectional 1314 model.
This is from the surepower manual:
"The 1314A (unidirectional) and 1315A (bidirectional) are 100A battery separator modules with an integrated relay for 12V systems. The units monitor both the main and auxiliary battery banks. If the main battery (for the 1314A) or either battery bank (for the 1315A) is above the connect threshold, the relay connects the two banks together. If the main battery (for the 1314A) or either batteries (for the 1315A) are below the disconnect threshold the unit will open the relay. The connect threshold is set to a nominal voltage of 13.2V, which would only be reached when the charging system is operating. "
My bad I didn't check that before.
Going unidirectional - 1314 should be way forward me isn't it ?
Jorge
Finally connected the batteries as it was laying around for a while. To my surprise my setup is not working
I bought the cruiser with the Surepower 1315-200 battery separator which is bidirectional battery separator. The solenoid connects both batteries if either of the batteries are being charged over 13.2 volts. The solenoid would disconnect if either of the battery would go lower then 12.8. The cruiser was bought with solar panel which was connected to the aux baterry that means that there was charge and the solenoid was connected.
Now without the solar panel I am scratching my head , seems that I will have to buy another battery separator now only unidirectional 1314 model.
This is from the surepower manual:
"The 1314A (unidirectional) and 1315A (bidirectional) are 100A battery separator modules with an integrated relay for 12V systems. The units monitor both the main and auxiliary battery banks. If the main battery (for the 1314A) or either battery bank (for the 1315A) is above the connect threshold, the relay connects the two banks together. If the main battery (for the 1314A) or either batteries (for the 1315A) are below the disconnect threshold the unit will open the relay. The connect threshold is set to a nominal voltage of 13.2V, which would only be reached when the charging system is operating. "
My bad I didn't check that before.
Going unidirectional - 1314 should be way forward me isn't it ?
Jorge
Just curious what you did to solve the problem. I have a Sure Power 130A isolator that I have used since 2011, and have had to replace it once already, and maybe a second time as my main battery isn't charging.