SuperPro offset bushing install (1 Viewer)

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My goal is to move front wheel forward as much as possible. The idea is to use offset bushing on the LCA and then move my SPC UCA to zero setting. This is for tire to firewall/body mount clearance.
I might step up to 35x10.50r17 tire at some point.

Part number used are:
Spf4691k LCA front offset bushing, up to 0.6° additional caster.
Spf4347k LCA rear offset bushing, up to 1° additional caster.
So both potential can gain 1.6° additional caster.

Tools used after LCA is out of vehicle
  1. OEM bottle jack
  2. MAP gas torch
  3. 12" long 1/2" all tread and a couple nuts
  4. a bunch of 1/2" fender washers with 2"OD.
  5. A Washer that are bigger than 2-1/4" OD or anything flat with a 1/2" hole in the middle to act as backing plate to pull the larger rear bushing in
YouTube reference
Removal
Note: i think the torch is too hot and cause the rubber to melt in this video.
I use MAP gas torch that are not as powerful. Key is to watch color change on the paint. It should only turn matte greyish color and even all around.
I also use OEM bottle jack that are not as powerful. If it get hard to turn, stop and heat is some more.


Install
I did not finish it with hydraulic press.
I just use my 36 mm socket and 2-1/8" socket as receiver tube and the all tread seat the aluminum ring to the LCA


Finished product
IMG_20200324_182010__01.jpg


Potential issues
KDSS cylinder is getting close to power steering lines and radiator drain plug.
Drain plug can be shaved a bit and the power steering lines potentially can be shifted a bit to gain clearance.

It would be a while before I finished this. Still have to weld Marlin LCA Brace a few other things.

Overall I am very happy with the quality of the bushing and seems to be the easiest to install.
 
I have been thinking about these for the exact same reason. I'd like to move the wheel as far forward as possible for larger tires.
Following to see the final result.
 
In my experience the easiest way to get those bushings with a lip on one side out is to use the air hammer to bend the lip over. Then you can press the bushing out normally in a hydraulic press with the lip side down or use a ball joint removal tool. See this video from EricTheCarGuy from 14:28:

 
@captainva
I don't have much problem with the bottle jack method. Actually a bit surprised at how easy it is to get it out. The rubber and sleeve come out as one piece.

@SIMKGX
Initial measurements i gain about 5/8" that is with SPC still in +2° setting. I am planning to move it to 0 setting.

I also ran into interference issue with the front Marlin LCA brace. Moving the front in at max setting would cause the LCA to rub on the brace. Luckily its not welded yet. It just need some fine tuning and it should be good to go.

KDSS specific issue
The radiator drain pet cock might need to be shaved a bit. Also transmission cooler line can be re bent a bit. So it should not be much issue after I took care all of this.
Potential KDSS interference
IMG_20200326_162730__01.jpg


Marlin LCA brace interference.
Need to shave the locator tabs and lower the plate a few mm
IMG_20200326_162757__01__01.jpg


Marlom LCA brace modification
I think if I grind this down it would be able to sit lower.
IMG_20200326_163222__01.jpg
 
IMG_20200412_184934.jpg

KDSS cylinder end up not becoming an issue

45882542495_7377362cc9_h__01.jpg

Originally planned to move it position G but it would result in positive camber. Hopefully position F can get slightly negative camber.
 
Super interested in this as well - thanks for spearheading. Thankfully I have my old OEM LCAs to try this with.

Also, in a classic case of "if I could do it over" I wouldn't have bought -12 offset wheels as the increased scrub radius eats into tire clearance. I think I read somewhere that +10 was the sweetspot for bigger tires...

Edit: also what are your thoughts on adding grease zerks to the LCAs since these are poly bushings?
 
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Super interested in this as well - thanks for spearheading. Thankfully I have my old OEM LCAs to try this with.

Also, in a classic case of "if I could do it over" I wouldn't have bought -12 offset wheels as the increased scrub radius eats into tire clearance. I think I read somewhere that +10 was the sweetspot for bigger tires...

Edit: also what are your thoughts on adding grease zerks to the LCAs since these are poly bushings?
The superpro does not need constant lubrication. The inside bore are serrated to hold lube.

IMG_20200413_170651.jpg

Got 1.5" clearance to body mount. This is with 255/80R17 with 0 offset. Tested with no spring. Look like the pinch weld will hit first. Not sure with spring if it will stuff this much or not.

IMG_20200413_165823.jpg

Steering straight

IMG_20200413_165700.jpg

This is how much stuff during the test.
 
This is a very interesting idea!
 
Hoping for an update on the superpro bushings. I am torn between oem and doing superpro or whiteline. My LCA ball and bushings are due and i also have spc uca's currently set to D. How is the NVH? any squeaking when wheeling?
Thanks in advance.
 
I have not heard good things about whiteline. They're not consistent and sometimes just flat out don't fit and then squeak horribly. If it were me I would only go superpro for poly or go OEM. I have several SuperPro bushings on my other car and they're all holding up great.
 
@Jstawgn did you ever get this dialed in? I can’t seem to get negative camber with SPC maxed out. I’m at setting G with offset bushing rear push out and front pull in or neutral.
 
@Jstawgn did you ever get this dialed in? I can’t seem to get negative camber with SPC maxed out. I’m at setting G with offset bushing rear push out and front pull in or neutral.
Yes. As you find out anything more that E give me negative camber. I cannot use F & G. Still worth it. I guess that is the reason Superpro only sell the arm with rear offset bushing.
 
Yes. As you find out anything more that E give me negative camber. I cannot use F & G. Still worth it. I guess that is the reason Superpro only sell the arm with rear offset bushing.
I just installed SPC upper control arms at Max setting I have positive camber on the driver side .. I figured my bushings are worn out and I need to replace them started researching found superpros . I also would want to push the front wheels forward as much as possible (maybe this is because my bushings are old but at this point it looks like I need more negative camber) Would you recommend doing only the front or the rear offset bushings , or should I get both ?? And maybe if you guys have any experience you can suggest which direction they're supposed to be pointed when they're pressed in.
Yes. As you find out anything more that E give me negative camber. I cannot use F & G. Still worth it. I guess that is the reason Superpro only sell the arm with rear offset bushing.
 
I just installed SPC upper control arms at Max setting I have positive camber on the driver side .. I figured my bushings are worn out and I need to replace them started researching found superpros . I also would want to push the front wheels forward as much as possible (maybe this is because my bushings are old but at this point it looks like I need more negative camber) Would you recommend doing only the front or the rear offset bushings , or should I get both ?? And maybe if you guys have any experience you can suggest which direction they're supposed to be pointed when they're pressed in.
If you already have positive camber, you might install the SPC ball joint at wrong location. The flat should face outside.

I have front and rear offset bushing. I think it still worth to get offset front if you doing just the bushing. If you need complete arm, they only sell one with rear offset bushing
 
If you already have positive camber, you might install the SPC ball joint at wrong location. The flat should face outside.

I have front and rear offset bushing. I think it still worth to get offset front if you doing just the bushing. If you need complete arm, they only sell one with rear offset bushing
Thank you for the reply I'll guess I'll order both front and rear offset bushings. This is what I did .. but I'm pretty sure what I did move the wheel forward if you look at the photo you can see the wheel is more forward than back ,,I'm getting confused that I'm still in the reverse??

20210827_233936.jpg


20210827_233650.jpg
 
@Node your UCA ball join was installed wrong. The offset need to be facing in. You got the offset out causing the negative camber.
 
I have them set like the instructions said rounded end twords rear of the car to maximize caster but now the driver wheel has some positive camber.. I don't have letters on the SPC instructions just pictures Can the offset superpro bushings help with this.

Alignment-Issue-Guide.jpg
 
I also read somewhere the super pro camber bolts are larger in diameter then the stock bolts ,do you know if that's true??
 
The upper ball joint need to sit closer to the coil spring. Even with offset bushing it would not be enough to correct that much offset when the UCA ball joint was installed wrong.
AD3A9182-681A-4A53-85D6-9939AD778DC3.jpg


The camber bolt need to be same diameter to fit. SuperPro bolt cannot be any bigger.
 

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