Sudden loss of power on freeway... (1 Viewer)

[Wellcraft19]

As many said, you can borrow a code reader at every autoparts store (Schuck's, Kragen, etc) by just dropping your DL as "deposit. I'm goin there tomorrow to have a "scan" and see if there is anything "unnormal". I have not driven sicne the Friday evening "sudden loss of power" so do not know anything more yet. But, will keep you posted.

Just put intake back together after inspecting TB, and generally just doing some mopping up before Timing Belt and Water Pump work tomorrow.

/// Per-Ola

 

[steenh]

Might be a long shot, but years ago in a 99 on a long trip I had a similar experience. We were on our way to the mountains and didn't want to get stranded. Went to a dealer where they tried to figure out the problem... couldn't so we took off. Happened again about 10 miles away so we towed back to the dealer (truck wouldn't start this time), rented a car and hoped they could get it to repeat... they were stumped since no codes were thrown.

3 days later after driving the truck back and forth to work with diag hooked to the truck, it finally repeated for the service manager. Cam sensor was the problem. No problems after that.

 

[marius]

I had a bad feeling on my truck for about 600miles took it to the dealer they told me I need to balance my wheels 3day later my light came on for a coilpack

 

[Liam]

I had a bad feeling on my truck for about 600miles took it to the dealer they told me I need to balance my wheels 3day later my light came on for a coilpack

lol...balance the wheels....

mechanics are getting more and more stupid.

 

[TlcBol]

the best option is check the The ECM for code or pending codes, if you dont have codes you need to ping ponit the problem, could be fuel pump, fuel filte, fuel pressure regulator. there is alot involve in lack off power, have you loock your MAF sensor? sometime it get dirty and couse that problem, take it off and spay some carb cleanner put it back and see what hapends

 

[Wellcraft19]

Thanks for all the input.
Problem surfaced today again. Going up slight hill, doing about 40 mph, truck suddenly lost power. NO response to accelerator pedal, zero! Pull over to the right and stop. CEL has come on (good, at least I'll have a code). Put transmission in neutral and "idle" is now about 1150 rpm. Shut off, restart, and everything's back to normal, BUT - CEL's still on. Drive to Schuck's and pull code P1121.

Anyone with a FSM around?

I have found the following definitions on-line:
P1121: "Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Range/Performance Problem."
P1121: "Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Inconsistent With MAF Sensor High Voltage".
P1121: "Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit Intermittent High Voltage"
P1121: "Manufacturer control fuel air metering"

What's the verdict? TPS or APPS?

BTW, cleared codes in ECU and nothing else showed/happened later, but is a time bomb and scary as hell to just suddenly be without power and see cars approaching from behind...

(sympton is almost identical to this one (from 2006): IH8MUD Forums - View Single Post - Major Repair$)

/// Per-Ola

 

[Liam]

Thanks for all the input.
Problem surfaced today again. Going up slight hill, doing about 40 mph, truck suddenly lost power. NO response to accelerator pedal, zero! Pull over to the right and stop. CEL has come on (good, at least I'll have a code). Put transmission in neutral and "idle" is now about 1150 rpm. Shut off, restart, and everything's back to normal, BUT - CEL's still on. Drive to Schuck's and pull code P1121.

Anyone with a FSM around?

I have found the following definitions on-line:
P1121 "Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Range/Performance Problem."
P1121: "Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Inconsistent With MAF Sensor High Voltage".
P1121: "Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit Intermittent High Voltage"

What's the verdict? TPS or APPS?

BTW, cleared codes in ECU and nothing else showed/happened later, but is a time bomb and scary as hell to just suddenly be without power and see cars approaching from behind...

(sympton is almost identical to this one (from 2006): IH8MUD Forums - View Single Post - Major Repair$)

/// Per-Ola

the APPS is the expensive one to change, but is usually the one that needs to be changed.

it's strange that it would go out while driving highway speeds...oh well, at least you know...

 

[TlcBol]

replace APPs

 

[EdsCruisin]

It's the APPS. I've done mine twice now and have a case with Toyota. Apparently it is not a common enough problem to cause recall.

 

[Wellcraft19]

Thnx,
Can anyone confirm that Toyota part No. 22060-50011 is the APPS (it is listed as "LEVER ASSY, THROTTLE W/SENSOR")?

And, not that I need any, but do the injectors really cost well over $200/each...?

 

[Wellcraft19]

As many suggested, it was the APPS. Replaced it Friday with one from CDan, and all is back to normal.

Thanks to all Mudders for this invaluable resource!

/// Per-Ola

 

[Don2222]

Hello
First of all thanks so much for all the info!!!
I just had the same exact problem with my 2008 Toyota Scion XD
It only happens on a hot day on the highway after driving approx 20 min so the car engine was hot.
With all the info here I traced the cause down to a dirty throttle body assembly which I cleaned out with Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaner spray and then and more importantly found a cracked air hose at both ends that goes to that throttle body assembly from the EGR valve, the real culprit here!!
So I cheaped out and did not buy the expensive formed hose but some 9/32 hose good for 500 degrees at AutoZone
Then I drove the car and no more check engine light either!!! Yeah thanks so much guys!!!!!
See pics