Stuck Oil Pan

[arizona78]

Well then… I have a stock 1978 FJ40. I am in the process of changing the rear main seal/clutch. Tired of the mess on the garage floor. I am also changing the oil pan seal… maybe original maybe not. Whatever the case it’s stuck on like nobody’s business. It won’t budge… I’ve used a putty knife and a small hammer and been able to free up the passenger side. It’s literally rock hard and the passenger side took several hours of my best patience and OCD. Used a rubber dead blow hammer to try to free it up. Any tips? I have read that people use a jack and 2x4 against the frame but I’m concerned I’ll ruin the pan. I know that new OEM is available if needed.

 

[-Spike-]

Not really much help, but in your situation I'd try to locate a replacement pan that you could purchase if you destroy yours. Probably too late though, you really don't have a choice now, it has to come off. Hopefully someone here has a spare if it comes to that.

I assume the 2x4 is used to distribute the force across the whole side of the pan, which sounds like a good method if that much force is required.

 

[toy_tek]

Any progress? I learned long ago growing up in the rust belt that when things don't budge, sometimes you need to resort to violence. Ok I'm only half kidding....

I'd heat the putty knife edge with either a heat gun or small propane torch and try to see if that breaks the seal any easier. Get it pretty warm but not red hot obviously... you don't need a fire under there. Also, a small dead blow hammer probably isn't helping, you need some real mass behind the hammer head... if you have something heavier and harder like a large head brass hammer or even a small handled sledge that may get you going a little faster.

 

[Stepmurr]

Should work for oil pans too!

 

[Living in the Past]

If you have one side loose then wedge something along that to to create a gap. I have plastic wedges I use. Then with pressure on the loose trying to widen the gap start working along the area closest to the loose area. Once you get the front and back loose around the bearing caps should go quickly. I have no trying to break a oil gasket loose trying to move it sideways. Pan has to move downwards away from the block. Once you have an area loose use that for leverage on the rest. Just not to much at one time.

When you install the new gasket tighten the bolts to factory specs. The torque is in inch pounds not foot pounds and seems barely over finger tight.

 

[arizona78]

Eventually I was able to get it off though it was slightly mangled. I used a small bottle jack on the passenger side to push on it which loosened the pan on that side and around the bearing caps. Driver side was still firmly attached. Access to tap in a putty knife is very limited. After looking at it and making a 2nd plan, I pulled out the bottle jack and put a scissor jack on the driver side. At this point I’m two days in and comfortable sending the pan to hell. So, three very carefully placed wood chisels and a screwdriver later the pan finally popped loose. No damage to the block and it cleaned up nicely. New OEM oil pan awaits pickup at Earnhardt Toyota. $200 with new drain plug and drain plug gasket.

 

[LongDuck]

Give it a quiet burial in the back yard. Play Taps in the background for full effect. Good work, soldier.

 

[splitshot]

Those can be a buggar, I used blue locktite on the bolt threads because they can have a tendency of backing out.

 

[arizona78]

Those can be a buggar, I used blue locktite on the bolt threads because they can have a tendency of backing out.

As I have taken things apart (driveshafts, oil pan, transmission from bell housing, etc) I have noticed odd bolts and nuts are much looser than others. No rhyme or reason. I will be embracing the blue and green threadlocker as I re-install. Rust is not a factor as it’s been in AZ 99% of its life. Finding the OEM gold cad plating is very satisfying.

 

[bubfuji]

Tidbit for future use.
Heating the oil pan bolt flange with a heat gun or propane torch. Just keep circling the pan. When the gasket softens, insert a low profile wedge of some type. Keep heating the flange going around the bolt flange. The pan will un-stick itself and/or the effort to remove it will reduce drastically.