Stuck in FL- starter

[JtFSU]

So have the truck all packed ready to head home. Go to leave and get the good Ol starter click. Have tried bumping it dozens of times. Have taken the fender well cover off and tried to bang on it a little with the jack extension.
I’ve read some vague detail about reaching the contacts with a long screwdriver, but don’t see anywhere to reach any contacts.

Any suggestions or better details are much appreciated!

 

[Skeet]

From another thread:

I was able to "Jumper" my old starter by connecting two leads of jumper cables to a long screwdriver touching the braided copper wire from the solenoid to the starter. it took a couple trys, but finally worked. If you are in a jam and get the dreaded starter,"Click" remove the heat shield and have someone push the starter button. when you hear the relay energize, clamp the jumper-cable to the screwdriver and you can start the truck

My Starter RR thread starting with the bypass. - TundraTalk.net - Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum

 

[TeCKis300]

This is not going to be easy.

The issue is the smaller solenoid that is piggybacked to the starter (lower thing in the picture). It serves 2 functions: 1) Pushes the starter gear forward to engage with the starter ring 2) Relay power to the starter motor itself. The problem lies in #2. The goal is to jumper power to the starter at the braided copper wire. Yet don’t fry anything else by accidently grounding a hot screwdriver on something.

The jumping has to be timed with pushing the “start” button. Which gives about a ~5 second window of time, where #1 happens. And you manually do #2.

I haven’t done this personally, so take everything with a grain of salt. I think I would practice to see if I can jump the starter first (hear it spin, it won’t hurt anything). Either by way of using a jumper wire to the screwdriver (perhaps lots of tape to insulate things except the tip…you definitely DON’T want to accidently ground out anything). If you can do that, then have someone coordinate with you to push the starter while you do #2. Make sure the vehicle is in park!

There is a large gauge power wire leading to the relay (in picture, lower thing, right bolt). It is enclosed by a plastic cover. Perhaps instead of a jumper cable, one could try to bridge that hot wire/bolt on the back of the solenoid/relay, to the copper braided wire.

 

[JtFSU]

Well,still stuck. Can’t get the heat shields off as all I have at this point is the wrenches in the oem tool kit.
Just to confirm, the insulated wire shown in the pic above will not help trying to put power to it?

I have an insulated long screwdriver. Is there something else I may be missing that would allow easier access to the braided copper cable?

 

[FerzLC]

I keep this in my “notes”. HTH


“I was able to "Jumper" my old starter by connecting two leads of jumper cables to a long screwdriver touching the braided copper wire from the solenoid to the starter. it took a couple trys, but finally worked. If you are in a jam and get the dreaded starter,"Click" remove the heat shield and have someone push the starter button. when you hear the relay energize, clamp the jumper-cable to the screwdriver and you can start the truck”

 

[TexAZ]

You will need a long screwdriver, like 2 feet long. lay on the ground directly behind the passenger wheel. run the screwdriver up to the starter/solenoid wire in the picture, make firm contact with the wire, have someone else push the starter button, then press the jumper cable to the screwdriver. it make take a couple tries to get the timing down. and there will be several lights on the dash. but it will start the truck and get you home.

 

[Markuson]

You will need a long screwdriver, like 2 feet long. lay on the ground directly behind the passenger wheel. run the screwdriver up to the starter/solenoid wire in the picture, make firm contact with the wire, have someone else push the starter button, then press the jumper cable to the screwdriver. it make take a couple tries to get the timing down. and there will be several lights on the dash. but it will start the truck and get you home.

Man this is super info to throw in the brain for the boonies. Two foot long screwdriver? Wow! Never seen one that long! (Cue Michael Scott...)

 

[TexAZ]

It's been a couple years since I had to do this start.

I needed to get out of the office so I went out to the parking lot to walk through it
Laying under the truck, just inside the passenger wheel, look up at the right side of the engine block, past the oil drain plug you can see 2 heat shields.

look closely and remove this bolt, then fold the foil back to reveal the starter and wire to the solenoid.

place the end of your insulated screwdriver on the bolt where the cable attaches to the solenoid.
Have someone push the button and energize the screwdriver.

gratuitous screwdriver shot for @Markuson.

 

[Markuson]

Ha! Nice!

This in-field Fox makes me think it might be worth PRE-WIRING to that point so that it wouldn’t require two people if it happens while alone...

 

[BluffCruiserDC]

That's the longest screwdriver I've ever seen. I should probably buy one or replace my starter.

 

[JtFSU]

Thanks for the replies guys. Tried the screw driver on the bolt. No luck. In the end I threw in the towel, called the tow truck, and it’s headed to the dealership. They verified they had parts in place and will be jumping on it first thing in the morning and have me headed home in the afternoon. Fingers crossed....

 

[RET2]

What ever happened to my query about pre installing a short pigtail to aid access to area in question?

 

[RTaylor]

How old/how many miles on the starter? Good luck tomorrow and keep us posted on the outcome.

 

[TeCKis300]

What ever happened to my query about pre installing a short pigtail to aid access to area in question?

Not a great option IMO. If one is going to gain access to install a pigtail, one might as well do the full monty and change the starter. Accessing the area is 90% of the work. It is DEEP in there.

The pigtail would also be hot during starts. Taking the right precautions to insulate and secure the pigtail, which is likely fused for huge current, would take some effort. Not to mention it is in a tight area and also a very very hot area being under the manifold.

I would encourage those at 100k miles to proactively change it. There is very little warning it will go out. And once it's out, it'll work no more. In my case, I got one failed start coming home from work the prior day, then started. Next morning, not one success in 30+ following attempts, with battery fully charged, jumped, etc. Nothing.

I believe one can just change the solenoid/relay and not the whole starter. My time wasn't worth investigating this, but I'm 95% sure that is the case. It's only a $100 part in that case. Still the same a 6-9hr job to change the whole starter, or the solenoid, or add a pigtail.

2009 Toyota Land Cruiser Parts - Camelback Toyota Parts - Genuine OEM Parts - Free Shipping

 

[JtFSU]

How old/how many miles on the starter? Good luck tomorrow and keep us posted on the outcome.

It has 128k, so based on my reading, it was due. Just hasn’t helped my case with the wife when I assured her buying a 10 yo LC would last us another 10 years and be a safe and trusty road vehicle. My pride is hurt much more than my confidence in the LC.
The good news I told her is that once this is done, the water pump and radiator were already done, so we should be good for at least another 100k without anything major.

 

[fireball]

My 08 with 144k mike gave up with absolutely no notice about two months ago. Luckily I was at home and the truck was in the garage when it happened.

 

[TexAZ]

I know it's just one data point, but I have done the starter, radiator, and water pump and no other major repairs and I'm at 200k.

The truck is still just a s quiet, rattle free and luxurious as it was 10 years ago.
Hopefully look y in 10 years you can tell you wife, " I told ya' so".

 

[Markuson]

I know it's just one data point, but I have done the starter, radiator, and water pump and no other major repairs and I'm at 200k.

The truck is still just a s quiet, rattle free and luxurious as it was 10 years ago.
Hopefully look y in 10 years you can tell you wife, " I told ya' so".

Those are the three swaps I’ve done on both 200 and 100. It’s interesting how consistent those three failures are for 20 years of LCs.

 

[mtman04]

It has 128k, so based on my reading, it was due. Just hasn’t helped my case with the wife when I assured her buying a 10 yo LC would last us another 10 years and be a safe and trusty road vehicle. My pride is hurt much more than my confidence in the LC.
The good news I told her is that once this is done, the water pump and radiator were already done, so we should be good for at least another 100k without anything major.

What was your bill from the dealer? Contemplating this very scenario.

 

[JtFSU]

What was your bill from the dealer? Contemplating this very scenario.

$1300, which did include a new 7yr battery. Not what I wanted to spend, but all things considered- it was Panama City Toyota, who was operating with literally half a building, and they got me done in one day. Major kudos to them.