Strange electrical issue (Locks/Windows)-2013 LC200-Advice appreciated

[quattro guy]

Hey Guys,
So I parked my LC for about 10 days while on vacation and although it started fine (battery felt a bit weak due to the time/winter temps) I immediately noticed a few issues. I first noticed the auto down on my driver's window wasn't working then noticed none of the other windows worked from the driver's master switch. Then I realized I lost my power door locks from the driver's switch as well. The windows and locks all work from their individual doors; just not from the driver's door. The key remote will lock/uplock just fine. Also the night illumination is gone on the driver's door. Two other strange things have happened: the heated seat indicator light now sometimes blinks in the neutral (off) position which it never did before and the rear tailgate failed to recognize the key proximity when I first started the truck (this is now working OK). I was initially thinking it was fuse related, but it seems that if I had a bad fuse other items that are on that fuse wouldn't work and that's not the case (I checked the manual on this). I'm thinking driver's window actuator, but I'm a bit perplexed given the other issues. To be clear I can roll the driver's window up/down, but there is no auto feature. Any thoughts or suggestions? TIA!

 

[Sandroad]

My first suspect is the battery or connections. How old is it? If it was me, I’d disconnect the battery negative for a few minutes, check the terminals and chassis ground next to the battery for corrosion and see what happens when reconnected. My second suspect is water in connectors from a leak, but I’d do the battery thing first. And, if the battery is 5+ years old, spring for a new one.

 

[Leaky2014]

You got a leak. 100%

 

[Leaky2014]

Driver Heated Seat Stays ON

After some off-roading this weekend in the Pine Barrens of NJ, I'm having a drivers side heated seat issue. The heat comes on, high, and doesn't turn off. Cycle through the switch, all 3 settings and auto, never turns off. Passenger side hasn't acted up. There was a lot of water, so I'm on...

forum.ih8mud.com

Sunroof probably leaking, water 100% got into the junction boxes.
See post above.

 

[quattro guy]

Driver Heated Seat Stays ON

After some off-roading this weekend in the Pine Barrens of NJ, I'm having a drivers side heated seat issue. The heat comes on, high, and doesn't turn off. Cycle through the switch, all 3 settings and auto, never turns off. Passenger side hasn't acted up. There was a lot of water, so I'm on...

forum.ih8mud.com

Sunroof probably leaking, water 100% got into the junction boxes.
See post above.

Thanks, I'll start doing some troubleshooting. I recently got a new windshield although I really trust the installer. Appreciate the help.

 

[Leaky2014]

You'll find something similar to this below, so the sooner the better, gets the leak fixed, clean the terminals and protect with dielectric grease and cross your fingers or trade it in.

 

[Leaky2014]

Forgot to add, I'd pull the Seat Climate Control Modules out from the seats, cause they will burn up pretty quick, pulling the fuses won't work because they can get power from other sources in the junction box, they run about $300-$400 each, if you can find them.

 

[Sandroad]

Thanks, I'll start doing some troubleshooting. I recently got a new windshield although I really trust the installer. Appreciate the help.

Ahh.....the plot thickens. I change my first suspect to water. I bet either the old windshield or the new one let H2O into a connector area. Pull off the trim in the footwell at the base of the DS A pillar as well as the trim under the DS Front door.

 

[bloc]

Yep. Windshield leak.

Leaky and I have debated dielectric elsewhere to the point of annoying everyone so I won’t do it here, but I completely agree that those modules should be disconnected, connectors need to be addressed.

I’d restore it to the condition toyota sold it as new though, no grease necessary.

 

[quattro guy]

Yep. Windshield leak.

Leaky and I have debated dielectric elsewhere to the point of annoying everyone so I won’t do it here, but I completely agree that those modules should be disconnected, connectors need to be addressed.

I’d restore it to the condition toyota sold it as new though, no grease necessary.

Thanks, I removed the panels last night to have a look and didn't see any remaining moisture. Got the windshield guy coming later today (hopefully) to inspect for leaks. I am not super technical, but I have an tech with electronic specialty ready to help me out once the leak is addressed. Thanks again guys.

 

[GordJ]

Thanks, I removed the panels last night to have a look and didn't see any remaining moisture. Got the windshield guy coming later today (hopefully) to inspect for leaks. I am not super technical, but I have an tech with electronic specialty ready to help me out once the leak is addressed. Thanks again guys.

It only takes a minute to remove the scuff plate and panels in the passenger footwell. Unplug the connector “blocks” like leaky posted and you’ll find the corrosion. Your symptoms are identical to mine.

 

[quattro guy]

It only takes a minute to remove the scuff plate and panels in the passenger footwell. Unplug the connector “blocks” like leaky posted and you’ll find the corrosion. Your symptoms are identical to mine.

So you're saying the issue is likely on the passenger side not the driver as Sandroad indicated? I have only looked at the driver side. Thanks!

 

[GordJ]

When my window buttons on the drivers side wouldn’t work it was one of the connectors on the passengers side. (I think)