Stihl 260 (1 Viewer)

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Just pulled the trigger on picking up an MS260- Stihl said it is the new 026. Danimal or others can you confirm? I didnt get the MS260 PRO due to the only difference being the decompression starting mechanism. Went with a 20". Anyone have experience with the new ones? I pick it up in 2 weeks. I am pretty green when it comes to saws but wanted one that could run all day cutting firewood and not break a sweat.
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I've got an 026 with a 20" bar. It runs great and I've used it to cut small stuff up to probably 12" stuff so far. Cuts great. I really like it as it has decent power but is not too heavy. Talking with Dan, it sounds like the 026 and ms260 are the same saw with a minor change but I can't remember what he said it was.

I recently grabbed an MS460 for the bigger stuff but haven't had a chance to get it into some wood. Needless to say I'm itching for a camping trip.
 
The 026 and the MS 260 are the same saw as far as conversations go. There are a bunch of little things that are different but it is still the same flavor. The MS260 uses the flip up tool-less fuel and oil caps, more egronomically designed, cleaner emmissions, different porting of cylinder. Actually they use quad finger ports instead of the older 026 window transfer ports.

They are both great saws, old or new.

The only real difference between the non-pro and the pro is the deco valve, and the adjustible oiler. Other than that, same saw.
 
got it today at a decent price. 20" bar. Cant wait to use it this weekend.
 
My buddy had an 026 at his farm. It was the first saw I ever used, and it was great. Enjoy the new one!
 
Thanks for all your help Dan- I wouldnt have know about the 260 if it werent for your guidance. As another mudder pointed out, Read the owners manual last night, very cool features, very easy to maintain.
 
Yeah I want it to last. One question about the oiler. When I first started it it splashed out, after running it just put a light sheen on the chain. Normal right?
 
You saw is equiped with the Oilomatic 3 system.

You have an oil feed groove on the side of the driver. This groove directs the oil into the rivet or bearing of the saw chain. The driver is the part of the chain that goes into the guide bar.

You also have a hole in the driver. The hole holds an additional oil and through centrifical force it is spun into the rivet/bearing as it goes around the tip of the guide bar. This gives the chain extra lubrication in the rivet area as well as between the guide bar and the saw chain on the bottm side of the guide bar. The bottom side of the guide bar is where you will do 90% of you cutting.

You have a set of ramps built into the guide bar before and after the hole where the oil enters the guide bar. These ramps hold the chain in the exact spot so the oil is scooped up in the groove in the side of the driver and not pushed along by the front of the driver.

Looking at the bottom of your saw. You have the adjustable oil pump. It is 1/4 turn from minimum to maximum. About 1/2 way through the 1/4 turn adjustment, you will see an "E". This is for the optimum "E"matic setting. If you leave it there you will actually save 36% of the oil. You save it because the oil goes exactly where it needs to so there is no need to flood the bar and chain with oil. You may want to turn it up if you run a longer bar or cut nasty dead/dirty stuff.
 
we run an 026 as our "big saw" and have a handful of 170's for the small stuff. Am i right to assume the difference in 026 and 260 is no adjustable carb with the 260 ?
 

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