Stereo Wiring

[acerock]

I have just ran into a problem with wiring up a new head unit into my 62. The grey wire is dead. It is the ACC ignition wire, and I need some advice. Should I try to trace the wire back, and replace the bad components, or should I just link a wire from an accessory port that turns on with the ACC? I want to just run it from an existing circuit, mostly cause I am lazy. But which circuit should I tap into? I was thinking the fuel pump, but would that decrease my pressure in any way? any help would be appreciated, especially if you have had the same problem.

 

[Output Shaft]

If you know that your ACC fuse and circuit works, you can solder a dedicated wire to the back of the fuse block ACC metal fuse blade receptical thingy and run your new wire (with split loom for protection) up to wherever you want.

Splicing into existing loom wires gets sloppy quick and it can be difficult to know exactly what the implications of doing so will be or what wire you are actually splicing into.

If I wanted to add another circuit to the ACC fuse/circuit (and I have), I would solder a dedicated wire to the back of the 'downwind' side of the ACC fuse contact terminal (the terminal that gets it's power after going through the fuse).

To gain access to the back of the fuse terminal for soldering, remove the fuse block retaining bolts so you can get to the back of the fuse block and use two very small jewler's screwdrivers to release the two plastic retaining clips that hold the metal connector. The metal fuse connector will then just slide out the back. It is easy then to solder another wire to the back of the terminal... and use that for all future ACC connections. If the power draw will be high. Use a relay.

 

[gregnash]

I say that if you already have an accessory block wired in then I would put it in that so you have dedicated wiring for your exterior items. I am of the mindset that you should only have critical items fused into the main receptacle and everything else should be on a secondary block. This is what I am slowly working towards with my coming installation of Eric's (SLCFJ62) ultimate harness and the addition of a dedicated accessory fuse block.

 

[eightydeucer]

what you can do... which I recently did. Disconnect your battery and then get your fuse block loose. You need to remove some air ducting to get it out easily. Then locate something that is operated by switched power such as the cigarette lighter. Splice in your switched wire there, then you also need to run a constant power wire either off of the battery which is in my opinion too much when your fuse block is already there and your hazards and some other things are ran on constant power so they work without the key in ACC or what not. If you need a better look check out the Fj60 schematics on here. Let me know if you need any help!

 

[DickM]

My solution was to tap into the "output" side of the following fuses (in a similar manner as described by in Post 2 by Output).
Accessory power- Cigarette Lighter fuse
Ignition(switched) power- Gauges fuse
Constant power- Horn/Hazard fuse
I ran these wires to a simple bus bar and labeled them.
Now you have the ability to add more low amp demand items(tilt roll indicator, satellite radio, etc.) without going thru the fuse thing again.
As Gregnash said, (and I also did) an accessory fuse block is needed for higher amp items.