Steering shaft u-joint

[Whistler74]

Hi All.
Hoping that someone has some experience on this:

My steering became stiff and "notchy" for want of a better term. After isolating components I have narrowed it down to a seized u-joint between #1 and #2 intermediate shafts - this is the joint at the firewall. I'm in the disassembly process right now.

It appears that the only official replacement is the complete shaft with joint. Has anyone found a method of just replacing the u-joint? All this part is new to me - can it just be pressed out and replaced?

Thanks for any assistance.

 

[Hulsty]

Yeah they can be replaced easy enough, similar to larger U joints, search there is a thread somewhere where it is detailed.

 

[Shes Mad]

is it a size you can buy locally, or from Toyota

 

[Whistler74]

Thanks She's Mad:
I'm not sure about sourcing locally or through Toyota. The actual joint is not shown separately from the shaft on the 7*. I think the 60's have a replaceable joint there - there are threads on that but I'm not sure if some of the numbers are the same as it's not all that clear.

David*BJ70 had a post on removing the bottom joint (at the steering box) so I'm hoping this might be the same. I've got the shaft out and started disassembly last night. Not really sure how it comes apart - I can't see any snap rings or such. I'm going to wear my reading glasses this time! Once / if I get the joint apart I will take it to the parts store and try to match.

Amazing build of yours, btw. Every time I look at all the bits under the hood I'm impressed that it can be removed and re-installed, never mind mirror imaging it!

Cheers

 

[Shes Mad]

Thanks. I might try and fire it this weekend! Interior starting to go in.......

I replaced the one at the steering box, but not the one at the firewall, even though it had a tiny amount of play. It didn't look easy at the time.

Pretty easy to take the column out, so if you find out, I am very interested!

 

[Whistler74]

Got the joint pressed apart with no drama. The local parts shop (Lordco) can't find anything that small. I've emailed "the u joint store" so hopefully they can supply something. The dims match David*BJ70's descriptions so it must exist! Guess I can fix something else over the weekend while I wait…

The column was easy - not sure how the shaft is removed from the "Column tube support"? Brute force?
I think I can replace the joint without removing that but I should probably do the bearing while I'm in there.

 

[Shes Mad]

Cool. If you have the Dims, post then and I will check it out also. Let me know if they were inside or outside clips

 

[Whistler74]

diameter 16.05mm x length 38.90mm. The actual bearings are NSK ZY-108, but if the spider is damaged then they won't be much use on their own.

ujointstore.com (who knew?) shows a joint 16.0mm x 39mm so that's probably it. No snap rings - it is staked in place. Hope to hear back monday.

Are you in the deep freeze zone? Glad I'm on the balmy west coast when I watch the news...

Cheers

 

[Shes Mad]

deep freeze gone. Back to 30

 

[Whistler74]

Ok - reporting back it's all done.
I ordered 16mm x 40mm joints from "ujointstore.com" and they work just fine. Looks like all three joints on the shaft are the same so I have a spare on hand.
Steering is nice and smooth now as it should be.

 

[Shes Mad]

Ok - reporting back it's all done.
I ordered 16mm x 40mm joints from "ujointstore.com" and they work just fine. Looks like all three joints on the shaft are the same so I have a spare on hand.
Steering is nice and smooth now as it should be.

so did you replace all 3 and the bearing? I may do that also.

Back to the deep freeze again. -25 with -50 to -60 wind chills

 

[Whistler74]

I only replaced the one joint at the firewall - it was almost completely seized. The upper joint leads a sheltered life and looked brand new; the lower joint had no play, although it isn't quite as smooth as the others it's easy to pull out when it eventually needs replacing.
I made a half hearted attempt at removing the bearing: the FSM differs from the actual part in that there is no snap ring holding the assembly together. I think the plastic O-ring is held in by friction and rust and I was pretty sure none of it would survive extraction. Since I didn't have spares I decided to leave it alone for now.

Those little bearing cups are delicate: when pressing the new ones in make sure any burrs and the dimples from staking are removed and the yoke holes are round.

 

[Shes Mad]

I think my upper joint was the one with play, as I remember. Going to have to extract the column to inspect now. Curious.....

 

[Whistler74]

You should be able to check it by pulling the covers off the column. Looks like a bunch of work to extract it though…

Good Luck!

 

[deepseacruiser]

Resurrecting an old thread from the side of the road with a broken intermediate shaft u-joint

Does the ujoint come with the what appears to be little cups at the ends or if those are gone am I screwed?

 

[deepseacruiser]

So with a little redneck ingenuity, i.e. duck tape an d zip ties held the joint together long enough to get it to work so I don't have to pay a tow an arm and a leg

 

[roscoFJ73]

I think the steering shaft U joint is the same as the PTO shaft joint,just for for future reference.
Anyone check to see if 60 series use the same u joint as a 7* series?

 

[EKTi]

I think the steering shaft U joint is the same as the PTO shaft joint,just for for future reference.
Anyone check to see if 60 series use the same u joint as a 7* series?

 

[EKTi]

I was informed that the 60 series cups are 20 mm OD and have an inboard snap ring groove to retain the cups (no staking required). Therefore they would not fit the 70 series yokes. Hope this helps.

 

[tapevans]

Did you have t

I only replaced the one joint at the firewall - it was almost completely seized. The upper joint leads a sheltered life and looked brand new; the lower joint had no play, although it isn't quite as smooth as the others it's easy to pull out when it eventually needs replacing.
I made a half hearted attempt at removing the bearing: the FSM differs from the actual part in that there is no snap ring holding the assembly together. I think the plastic O-ring is held in by friction and rust and I was pretty sure none of it would survive extraction. Since I didn't have spares I decided to leave it alone for now.

Those little bearing cups are delicate: when pressing the new ones in make sure any burrs and the dimples from staking are removed and the yoke holes are roun

I only replaced the one joint at the firewall - it was almost completely seized. The upper joint leads a sheltered life and looked brand new; the lower joint had no play, although it isn't quite as smooth as the others it's easy to pull out when it eventually needs replacing.
I made a half hearted attempt at removing the bearing: the FSM differs from the actual part in that there is no snap ring holding the assembly together. I think the plastic O-ring is held in by friction and rust and I was pretty sure none of it would survive extraction. Since I didn't have spares I decided to leave it alone for now.

Those little bearing cups are delicate: when pressing the new ones in make sure any burrs and the dimples from staking are removed and the yoke holes are round.

hi mate did you have to re-stak? I was told to use a punch or the likes to keep them in? Cheers mate