Steering shaft replacement help (2 Viewers)

[TrillyPop]

Hey guys, just recently swapped my 06 LX steering shafts over to the LC equivalent while changing steering rack. Did this to get rid of the pesky VGRS system, as the ECU has presumably been bad for years and I have had a tilty steering wheel. Mechanically everything bolts up and I have a straight steering wheel now. But I'm having a small issue. The connector between the upper and intermediate shaft did have to be slid upwards in space (towards steering wheel) as the relative lengths of the two shafts are different between VGRS and non-VGRS. The upper shaft is shorter and lower one is longer now. The upper bolt on the connector is making a little bit of contact on the firewall tube in certain positions and I can see the intermediate shaft moving a little bit when I turn the wheel. Not possible to slide the connector more than a few mm.
Am I missing some sort of centering sleeve or support? Any advice here?

 

[TrillyPop]

bump.
Any insight?
Can anyone with a LC take this same photo for me please?

 

[awesomeissquid]

I’ll have my cruiser on a lift tomorrow and will try to remember to take a picture.

The intermediate shaft when all the nuts are loosened should be able to towards the steering rack or towards the steering wheel. It looks like you have it as far towards the steering wheel as possible.

 

[TrillyPop]

I’ll have my cruiser on a lift tomorrow and will try to remember to take a picture.

The intermediate shaft when all the nuts are loosened should be able to towards the steering rack or towards the steering wheel. It looks like you have it as far towards the steering wheel as possible.

Thanks, looking forward to comparing.

 

[awesomeissquid]

Sorry didn’t get around to getting on the lift yesterday. Here is the view from side. Let me know if you need any other views.

 

[TrillyPop]

Thank you, that's helpful.

 

[mazdababy]

Hey guys, just recently swapped my 06 LX steering shafts over to the LC equivalent while changing steering rack. Did this to get rid of the pesky VGRS system, as the ECU has presumably been bad for years and I have had a tilty steering wheel. Mechanically everything bolts up and I have a straight steering wheel now. But I'm having a small issue. The connector between the upper and intermediate shaft did have to be slid upwards in space (towards steering wheel) as the relative lengths of the two shafts are different between VGRS and non-VGRS. The upper shaft is shorter and lower one is longer now. The upper bolt on the connector is making a little bit of contact on the firewall tube in certain positions and I can see the intermediate shaft moving a little bit when I turn the wheel. Not possible to slide the connector more than a few mm.
Am I missing some sort of centering sleeve or support? Any advice here?View attachment 3118971

Do you still have the part numbers handy for this?? I'm interested in deleting my VGRS as well as it's time for a new rack soon.

Thanks!

 

[TrillyPop]

Do you still have the part numbers handy for this?? I'm interested in deleting my VGRS as well as it's time for a new rack soon.

Thanks!

 

[mazdababy]

thank you!

 

[mazdababy]

I was thinking about this on the way home last night. I had an RX8 with Mazdas version of VGRS, too. High speed the ratio was tighter requiring less input, which is what I assume the LX does. How does it compare to VGRS now that you’ve deleted it. I know everyone talks about the difference in effort required to turn the wheel, but what about steering wheel angle differences? Such as winding roads, sweeping turns, etc - do you find yourself having to turn the wheel much further?

 

[TrillyPop]

I noticed it when I first drove it after install...low speed parking lot turning, definitely more effort and more steering wheel action to turn the wheels. Figured this is what a LC feels like so it's all good. I quickly got used to it and don't notice it really anymore. There's no difference at speed.
You're definitely giving something up, but for me I was getting rid of the annoying tilted steering wheel without spending $2k on a VGRS ECU (and eliminating the potential re-failure point), so worth it.

 

[mazdababy]

Ah, okay. Effort or ratio at low speeds I could care less about - rather I don’t want it to require a lot of extra turning at speeds.

Mine is slightly tilted. I haven’t used techstream yet to recalibrate yet, but since I need to service or replace the rack, I figured I may as well just get the delete down now instead of later when it fails (if it hasn’t already).

Thank you!

 

[awesomeissquid]

Thank you, that's helpful.

Where you ever able to slide you shaft forward any more? Or is that just how yours sits?

 

[TrillyPop]

Where you ever able to slide you shaft forward any more? Or is that just how yours sits?

Have time set aside this Thursday to check it out. I don't think the connector will slide and still be able to clamp onto both shafts. Either the opening in the firewall will need to be enlarged, or maybe weld the connector onto the upper shaft and remove the bolt.

 

[TrillyPop]

Ah, okay. Effort or ratio at low speeds I could care less about - rather I don’t want it to require a lot of extra turning at speeds.

Mine is slightly tilted. I haven’t used techstream yet to recalibrate yet, but since I need to service or replace the rack, I figured I may as well just get the delete down now instead of later when it fails (if it hasn’t already).

Thank you!

Mine was tilted about 75 degrees counterclockwise. Techstream wouldn't allow me to do the calibration due to faults in the system, which were either the ECU or the upper shaft.
I don't think it's a particularly common failure, but nonetheless it is a failure point with an annoying yet essentially inconsequential effect.
If mine was easily fixable, I would have kept the system. But I totally understand your view, I'd probably do the same.