Steering knuckles

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Joined
Jul 24, 2013
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7
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Hi all I'm just setting up the preload on one of my knuckles on my 75 anyway torqued down the nuts to spec 71 ft-lb and got it to about 12 lbs on the pull scale. Went to test fit the spindle and it won't fit:censor: So I loosened the nuts and it fit no worries seems when torqued it pulls the knuckle housing out of round. Should I put the axle cv in then spindle on before torquing the nuts down?
 
not sure I'm following what you're saying, but be sure the axle is in all the way, splines aligned, you'll know when it is
 
The steering arm and bearing cap nuts get torqued to 71 FT/LBS. If youre tourqing yours to 71 IN/LBS, id be scared to drive anywhere near you. He said he pulled 12 pounds on the fish scale, which is close to spec.(6.6-13.2lbs)

Also a good idea to torque the studs in the knuckle housings as well. I just do them with a wrench about a 1/8 turn past snug. Some replacement studs have a torx head(Cheap trail gear) on the top that will start to deform a bit when it gets tight. Others just have a hex head(ARP/Gold trail gear)

If your measured preload is correct/spec, did you use the same shims that came out? did you add any? If so did you add to the bottom?

The bottom shim centers the knuckle on the ball, up and down. The top shim(s) sets the preload for both upper and lower bearings. So the shim(s) that came out of the bottom, must go back in. you can't add or delete any or your centerline will be off, and if you lost the shim youll have to start over with an SST to center your knuckle on the ball. It's a very small measurement, but it does make a difference.

So with that said, is everything put together correctly?

I just did mine a few months ago and had no problems assembling with everything touqued. the knuckle shouldnt deform under that amount of load, i wouldnt think.

You could loosen the bearing cap/steering arm nuts off a bit and assemble everything, and torque them afterward, but I would check first and verify you have the correct shim under the lower cap/arm.
 
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it should not be an issue ( if are tight to spec or not .. ) but honestly I assemble everything before final re tight and measurements ..
 
Thanks for the replys. I'm running arp magnum studs on top and new stock studs on the bottom I used threadlock then torqued the studs to 20 FT-LBS and the nuts to 71 FT-LBS. When I disassembled them they had two .30 shims on the bottom and no shims on top? so I put them back together the same. When I torqued the nuts down Without the spindle bolted up it slightly pulled the face of the knuckle housing out of round just enough to not allow the spindle to go in/on. So question is will the pull scale test be accurate enough with the spindle bolted up?
 
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