The steering arm and bearing cap nuts get torqued to 71 FT/LBS. If youre tourqing yours to 71 IN/LBS, id be scared to drive anywhere near you. He said he pulled 12 pounds on the fish scale, which is close to spec.(6.6-13.2lbs)
Also a good idea to torque the studs in the knuckle housings as well. I just do them with a wrench about a 1/8 turn past snug. Some replacement studs have a torx head(Cheap trail gear) on the top that will start to deform a bit when it gets tight. Others just have a hex head(ARP/Gold trail gear)
If your measured preload is correct/spec, did you use the same shims that came out? did you add any? If so did you add to the bottom?
The bottom shim centers the knuckle on the ball, up and down. The top shim(s) sets the preload for both upper and lower bearings. So the shim(s) that came out of the bottom, must go back in. you can't add or delete any or your centerline will be off, and if you lost the shim youll have to start over with an SST to center your knuckle on the ball. It's a very small measurement, but it does make a difference.
So with that said, is everything put together correctly?
I just did mine a few months ago and had no problems assembling with everything touqued. the knuckle shouldnt deform under that amount of load, i wouldnt think.
You could loosen the bearing cap/steering arm nuts off a bit and assemble everything, and torque them afterward, but I would check first and verify you have the correct shim under the lower cap/arm.