I had some free play in my steering wheel… I made an adjustment on the steering box…. That little flathead adjustment screw…. It worked and got rid of all the free play, but now my steering wheel is a bit tough to turn. It’s not as bad as not having power steering , but almost. I can’t back out the adjustment screw now no matter what I try (the locking bolt has been loosened). Is it seized on something on the inside perhaps? Is it time for a new steering box?
Steering Box Adjustment (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Fishbulb
- Start date
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It can cause more damage than good tightening the box. One of the dangers of following youtube instructions. Does not tell the full story, well, I have not seen a video yet which does tell the full story. Often wondered if the video makers are steer box repairers drumming up business. If you google or search on here steering box adjustment, you shall find much discussion.
They are beautiful things if you pull them apart. The tightening screw is a shuttle cock design, so when loose the shuttle cock shape follows the contact of the full extension of center to full left and right. So you want tight enough in the center but not too tight that grinds the shuttle cock every time you are in center. It is easy to over tighten, which shall cause binding. Normally it should be 1/8 turn is plenty. Hopefully you have not driven it too much and caused damage. The center is where they wear out .
Best practice I have found is to lift the front. Loosen the screw, turn steer wheel full to left and right then back to center. Then tighten the screw just till you feel the shuttle cock make contact and grab. Check play in steer wheel, if more than 40mm then try 1/8 turn. If not enough, make a mark where the slot is aligned to, loosen again turn left right then center and tighten again, and so on. If you over tighten it, they wear out very quickly every time you drive straight. They are sensitive.
Hopefully you checked your tie rods first. Steer box is often best not to fiddle with. I find it hard to describe, but it is clear if you pull them apart. Do not over tighten them.
They are beautiful things if you pull them apart. The tightening screw is a shuttle cock design, so when loose the shuttle cock shape follows the contact of the full extension of center to full left and right. So you want tight enough in the center but not too tight that grinds the shuttle cock every time you are in center. It is easy to over tighten, which shall cause binding. Normally it should be 1/8 turn is plenty. Hopefully you have not driven it too much and caused damage. The center is where they wear out .
Best practice I have found is to lift the front. Loosen the screw, turn steer wheel full to left and right then back to center. Then tighten the screw just till you feel the shuttle cock make contact and grab. Check play in steer wheel, if more than 40mm then try 1/8 turn. If not enough, make a mark where the slot is aligned to, loosen again turn left right then center and tighten again, and so on. If you over tighten it, they wear out very quickly every time you drive straight. They are sensitive.
Hopefully you checked your tie rods first. Steer box is often best not to fiddle with. I find it hard to describe, but it is clear if you pull them apart. Do not over tighten them.
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- Thread starter
- #3
Very descriptive and educational. I’m assuming i probably damaged the box, arggg.
possibly not, how much did you drive? they are hard steel
- Thread starter
- #5
Only a few miles.
probably ok then, lift her front, Loosen it off, full turns left and right, and tighten just enough snug. Check tie rods. Go from there.
I reckon mr toyoda put the air box mouth in the way so it was not so easy to access the adjustment screw. In that era anyway.
I reckon mr toyoda put the air box mouth in the way so it was not so easy to access the adjustment screw. In that era anyway.
- Thread starter
- #7
I’ll spend some more time try to loosen that screw, but I spent a couple hours trying to loosen it up today and no bueno.
- Thread starter
- #8
Got it sorted!
Just a heads up… if it binds up apparently to loosen the screw if it gets jammed the wheels have to be turned to either side. All seems to be well now
It ain’t perfect, but it’s better than it originally was before I messed with it!
Just a heads up… if it binds up apparently to loosen the screw if it gets jammed the wheels have to be turned to either side. All seems to be well now
It ain’t perfect, but it’s better than it originally was before I messed with it!
The FSM dictates how to set the pre-load on the valve body and then set the starting torque on the input shaft of the steering box, but this is a bench spec.
You won't damage the steering box by over-tightening the adjustment bolt for a short period. Long term, it might increase the rate of wear, but the bolt (or housing) would strip long before you physically damaged the sector shaft or power piston teeth.
I imagine you are well aware, but there can be many other contributors to steering free-play (bearings in the steering column, loose wheel bearings, trunion bearings, drag link ends and more.
You won't damage the steering box by over-tightening the adjustment bolt for a short period. Long term, it might increase the rate of wear, but the bolt (or housing) would strip long before you physically damaged the sector shaft or power piston teeth.
I imagine you are well aware, but there can be many other contributors to steering free-play (bearings in the steering column, loose wheel bearings, trunion bearings, drag link ends and more.
