Static Timing, need help, won't fire

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Athol, MA
I broke a timing chain slipper while lowering my head onto the block and now that the vehicle is all put back together I am affraid I lost my static timing. I set the cams as per the manual. single dots lined up while the double dots are 180 degrees opposite outboard. Here is where I need help. With the cams in this position should the harmonic balancer timing notch/mark be pointing at the 3 degrees mark on the timing cover? I thought the manual said that the crank keyway should be in the 6 o'clock position with #1 piston at TDC. I did place a mark on the timing chain in relationship to the factory mark on the timing gear before teardown but, this mark is off by a bunch if the keyway at 6 o'clock is #1 at TDC. I don't think I let the chain slip around the crank gear but, I am looking for advice before I tear the TB and valve cover off to have a look.
 
Crankshaft pulley mark points to 0deg. The timing dots (1 and 2 dots) line up together horizontally accross the block surface.


Did you use a sevice bolt to maintain the spring load on that 1 camshaft gear?
 
I did use the service bolt
 
It was heart breaking having her all back together and not a breath of life in her when I turned over the ignition. I'm trying to avoid a trip to the dealer.
 
So, with the timing mark on the balancer pointed at 0 degrees, is this TDC on #1 or could I be 180 off? and the cam timing gears lined up as discussed, bolt the timing gear on ( factory dot should be at 12 o'clock? and I should be in the ball park? Rotor meshed with timing gear to point at #1 spark plug on the distributor cap.
 
sounds right. I'll be driving back through Worcester on friday, probaby late morning. I'll throw my FSM in the truck and can stop by to take a look if you haven't figured it out by then.

I would guess though that you could be a tooth off on the distributor, this is from helping others get an engine to fire after some work and it's usually that.

I'll keep watch on this thread while down in CT with DaytonaTiger and her 91.
 
TDC compression is timing mark on balancer @ 0deg and single dots on camshafts together (double dots outboard). Rotor should be pointing @ #1 plug wire.
 
IIRC from other vehicles you want the rotor just past the #1 spot in the cap at with the piston at TDC. maybe try one tooth froreward?

does it at least try or stumble? even with the timing 180 out you should be getting some fire, probably with backfires and major misses but something
 
One thing in reading over the statements is that I did not see how you put the drive gear for the Distributor in. The one pin on the cam is at 12 0'colck the pin for the drive gear is at about 10 O'clock. The pins do not go both at the 12 O'clock. One clue is to see where the dristibutor hold bolt is, If it is real colse to the same spot on the slot then most likely all is Ok. If not you need to find out where the problem is.
TDC is a double edge sword, is it on compression or exhaust part of the 4 stoke(remember TDC happens twice in a 4 stroke engine)? it sounds like you have it out 180 degees. I am going by memory one this(i am at home, so no books). The key pin on the cam for gear is at 12 O'clock when compression TDC for Number one (I beleive this is right). How did you set this up when you took off the head? (Cam lobes for Number one will be in more up position then touching the shims). 3 degrees at the crank is 6 at the Distributor, but 6 degrees is adjustable on the dristibutor, this amount off is not that much. good luck later robbie
 
I finally cured the problem. I ended up pulling the valve cover off and confirmed that the timing mark on the crank pully was at 0 degrees when the cams lined up properly. My distributer was off 90 degrees. Don't ask me how but, it pays to double check. What a difference with the new head gasket. Not to mention the broken exhaust valve that is no longer a problem. Thanks all for the help.
 

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