Starting Troubles after cruiser has been driving then stopped.

[Randy88FJ62]

I apologize for the long read and the disarray of information below:

Coming back from a weekend off roading trip I stopped for gas. When I tried to start her back up it wouldn’t start. The starter does not turn, all I hear is a click. When I keep trying to turn the ignition over it will eventually start after many tries (about 5 minutes.) This starting issue happened again a week later (today.) Both times have been in warm weather above 100°F if that makes a difference.

I did notice that my truck was rough idling when offroading at high altitudes during the off road trip (roughly 10,000 feet.) Not sure if that is related to this as well.

Also: Prior to the trip I hooked up the battery backwards. I have since then replaced the fusible link. I currently do not have reverse lights and no passenger rear marker light. I am chasing that electrical issue down on the side, but once again it may be related.

Also… I have a new radiator that I installed as well as a trany cooler and replaced the trany fluid before the off road trip.

Also….I put new spark plugs in before the trip but did not set the gaps. The plug wires and distributor are also replaced within the last year.

I know not all this is related but maybe some of you with experience may see a connection. I have read threads about the FPR and other associated parts but cannot pin point my problem. The fuel filter was replaced within the last year so I’m assuming that is ok.

Any help with this bad starting issue would be much appreciated. I wanted input before running to Toyota to pick up an FPR for no reason.

-Randy

 

[smtyblt]

Get a new starter or rebuild yours. That is the first sign of wear.

If the solenoid is going bad that is easy.

If the gears are worn, it is better to just get a remanned or new starter. These starters are gear reduction starters and when they start going bad they lock up and teh solenoid is not strong enough to push through the bind.

Or the solenoid is just getting hot.

If it happens again just tap it with a rock or a hammer on the end of the starter and it will crank right up.

cam

 

[Wile E Coyote]

Randy, your no starts sound just like a bad starter condition. Adding in the heat equation during a hot day on a long trip seals the dx even futher. Unless there's other physical probs with the starter, a simple rebuild should net you another 10+ years of service. Call C Dan for the rebuild parts (plunger and contacts) if you feel confident it's a bad starter.

 

[Wile E Coyote]

Hodag's old post about the rebuild is currently on page 1:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/105626-here-toyota-part-s-starter-rebuild.html

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Sorry I dod not put in more details. I rebuilt the starter about a month ago. I tore it apart and replaced the copper contacts. I cleaned all ground strap locations. My truck worked beautifully after that newver missing a cold start. I am having a problem with restarting it after it's warm though.

Here's what I have found from searching:

"COSkier1
A bad FPR will do 2 things: you will definitely not be able to hot start, and it may just cut out on you completely while driving. In either case, you have to wait for everything to cool down before you can start driving again. So from your symptoms, it doesn't sound like the FPR is bad."

 

[Randy88FJ62]

My vehicle has wanted to cut out once when it was really hot after I got it started up again at the gas station....

 

[smtyblt]

Randy

Next time you have this problem try the tap on the starter trick.

It sounds like the gears in the starter are worn and in a bind, this also happens when it gets hot.

The Starter just clicking is a starter problem, or ground but very doubtful a ground problem.

The contacts only help the solenoid actuate properly.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Randy

Next time you have this problem try the tap on the starter trick.

It sounds like the gears in the starter are worn and in a bind, this also happens when it gets hot.

The Starter just clicking is a starter problem, or ground but very doubtful a ground problem.

The contacts only help the solenoid actuate properly.

I checked the gear on the starter that engages the flywheel and it did not look worn. I have no problem taking it apart again but I’m not sold yet that it’s the gear. What do you mean by tapping on the starter? Would that really help it?

 

[smtyblt]

I checked the gear on the starter that engages the flywheel and it did not look worn. I have no problem taking it apart again but I’m not sold yet that it’s the gear. What do you mean by tapping on the starter? Would that really help it?

yes it does help in the short term. Next time it clicks and wont start just give the starter a good little thud and walk back around and turn the key. My 88 FJ-62 buggy has been doing it for years and I also fixed the starter. I just tap that one because I dont really care.
Cam

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Do they sell the stator with the gear on it as a seperate piece at Toyota? I might give CDan a call...

 

[Randy88FJ62]

I'm still interested on input regarding the rough idling at higher elevation and the one time my truck wanted to stall. I may have an FPR isuue as well as a worn gear....

Anyone with experience on the FPR situation?

 

[lehiguy]

I'd bet the farm you have a bad armature in your starter. Try the hammer trick; have somebody hold the key in the start position (assuming that it's not working on this attempt) and whack the starter with a hammer. If it engages, and I bet it will, you have a bad armature and no amount of cleaning and new brushes will fix it.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

I'd bet the farm you have a bad armature in your starter. Try the hammer trick; have somebody hold the key in the start position (assuming that it's not working on this attempt) and whack the starter with a hammer. If it engages, and I bet it will, you have a bad armature and no amount of cleaning and new brushes will fix it.

I really hope you guys are wrong. I replaced the contacts, plunger and painted it orange. Now I might have to get a reman one from toyota if this is the case. I will be a sad panda...

I will check it out next time it happens. I'll carry a hammer.

Thanks for the input.

 

[chicago]

I think that if it were the FPR, she would crank, but not catch. At least that is how I understood it.
Ive been having hard start issues with mine since Ive owned it where shell crank, but not catch fire. Ive replaced hoses, FPR, EGR...Now Ive also heard that the issue could be related to the check valve on the fuel pump...She ALWAYS fires, eventually.
As far as the rough idle...I donno what to tell you on that.
Maybe a vaccuum issue on one of the MILLION hoses?

Good luck and post up when you find out what it is.

Chicago

 

[Wile E Coyote]

Stumbling at altitude only points me a too-lean condition. FPR or related item, small vac leak, even bad O2 sensor (however, they almost always over-richen when heading south). I've not had to deal w/ these issues yet on my own 62, so I'm not much further help here.

 

[ohrly?]

I'd bet the farm you have a bad armature in your starter. Try the hammer trick; have somebody hold the key in the start position (assuming that it's not working on this attempt) and whack the starter with a hammer. If it engages, and I bet it will, you have a bad armature and no amount of cleaning and new brushes will fix it.

What is the armature, can I replace it myself?

 

[rchalmers3]

Yes, armature and brushes in the starter motor are what are being posited as a potential fault. What the raps on the starter do are to "shake" the brushes and armature into contact and jar the motor into operation.

So bring along your favorite BFH and a bar to act as a extension so you can swing away from above the fender. Have someone hold the key on the "start" position when the failure is present. You don't have to bang hard, use enough force to drive, say, a finishing nail.

Good news is replacing the starter brushes is easy, cheap and you were almost there when you had the starter out!!!

Best regards,

Rick

 

[rchalmers3]

One more thing: Carburetors are not altitude compensating. They don't alter the air/fuel ratio due to ambient air pressure. If you run an sea level tuned carb at 10k feet, your idle smoothness and performance will not be equal, period. If you are satisfied with the truck at the altitude you normally drive, then chock up the experience to the temporary venture into higher altitude.

Rick

 

[ohrly?]

Yes, armature and brushes in the starter motor are what are being posited as a potential fault. What the raps on the starter do are to "shake" the brushes and armature into contact and jar the motor into operation.

So bring along your favorite BFH and a bar to act as a extension so you can swing away from above the fender. Have someone hold the key on the "start" position when the failure is present. You don't have to bang hard, use enough force to drive, say, a finishing nail.

Good news is replacing the starter brushes is easy, cheap and you were almost there when you had the starter out!!!

Best regards,

Rick

I have just been hitting it then getting into my truck and turning it on. I replaced the brushes just a little while ago, but not the plunger - is the plunger the armature?

 

[rchalmers3]

I have just been hitting it then getting into my truck and turning it on. I replaced the brushes just a little while ago, but not the plunger - is the plunger the armature?

That will work too, for a while. Eventually the brushes will stop making contact and any amount of hammering won't make it start.....

The plunger is the moving part of the solenoid, bridging the contacts that transmit power to the starter motor.

The armature is the moving (rotating) part of the starter motor, passing through the attracting/repelling field currents of the motor, producing mechanical effort that turns the ring gear through the bendix gear.

The brushes that wear out are located in the housing that covers the armature.

Rick