Starting electrical

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browndog

browndog

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Hey folks.

I've searched this site up and down and have gotten really good information but am left with a dilemna. Here's the run-down.

A couple months ago my starter began to behave a little eratically. Every once in a while I would turn the key and here the solenoid click but no starter engagement. If I held the key long enough, or tried again, it would fire up. Only happened once in a blue moon. Lately it has been happening more often and has almost stranded me a couple times (I'm more patient than most). The other day I was headed out and it wouldn't start, I could hear the solenoid click, and my voltmeter is reading 12 volts. After 10 minutes of frustration I finally hooked it up to my wife's rig and jumped it. Low and behold it fired right up.

I read all the starter threads I could on this site and decided to check my contacts and plunger. Looked fairly good, so I had the starter tested and it seems that the starter is fine. Back to the search function and read up on ignition issues. It makes sense to me that I'm not getting enough current to the solenoid, so the 30 amp relay idea sounds reasonable. Here's where the questions begin:

1) If I want to run dual batteries (painless setup), does it make sense to add a 30 amp relay to my starting solenoid circuit?

2) I'm thinking that the smaller gauge wire to the solenoid, plus the relatively old ignition, is what's limiting my current. Will dual batteries help or will they be limited by the same issues?

Thanks.
 
I think I'd check the following before doing any mods:
Battery cable/post connections - use a wire brush to get really clean.
Good/clean contacts to starter from batter.
Battery condition, voltage, amp output.

The first two are DIY, the second can be done free at most battery/parts shops.
 
Thanks, Doug.

I've already gone over the battery connections, grounds, and posts. All pretty clean. As for the battery, I haven't gotten it tested but it's a pretty new, high amperage battery I chose to handle the diesel.

If the battery is already weak, seems to me that I've either got a significant draw (which should drain the battery--not happening) or it's time for a dual battery setup.
 
I would take the battery out and have it checked at the parts store. Most will do it for free.

Doing a Dual battery set up is not the solution for starting problems, it will only mask an issue that will sooner or later come back and bite you in the ass. I would fix the issue, then add dual batteries as a backup system or to run accesories off of.

To find a draw on your system: hook up a multi meter in line between the positive post on your battery and your positive cable. If there is a draw you should show current with the key off. Leaving the key off have someone pull one fuse at a time out of the fuse box. When the draw drops to near 0 you will have found the circuit with the draw and you can start looking at that circuit for issues.

I have a draw in my stereo system that I simply can not track down. I have tried and tried. I am moving the entire stereo system over to run off of my auxillary battery partly because of this issue. It will also allow me to run my stereo for a long time and still be able to start the truck.
 
Thanks. I'll look for a draw tonight.

Just to reiterate though, I've got a diesel and am only running one battery. From what I can tell most diesels run two batteries, primarily because they require more juice for starting. I'm wondering if one battery just isn't enough for the task.

I'm still thinking the problem lies with ignition, but the only thread I've seen on the subject suggested installing a relay on the starter solenoid circuit.
 
Sounds like you've covered the easy stuff, so not sure I can help (!!). Being a diesel throws a curve ball into the equation...yYou have a 12V starter? As you say a diesel is harder to start, many/most have two batteries. Is it possible that even though you have a new battery, it's getting drawn down too far by starting and not getting recharged back enough? Getting it checked would be a good idea (even though it's new). Is the alt up to the task of recharging the battery? Have you posted in the diesel/international forum?
 
Doug:

It is a 12 volt starter, and I think the alternator is up to the task. If the voltmeter in the car can be trusted, I'm pushing 16 volts while driving, so I think it's charging fine.

I'll cross post later today.

Thanks.
 
Sounds like the starter solonoid itself. I read all of your posts and don't hear of anything that leads to low battery voltage, charging, etc. As lovetoski said originally battery posts and cables would have been my first suggestion, but since they are in good condition and because of the gauge readings and the jumping off routine, I say solonoid. The small wire going to the solonoid is low amperage, hence the small gauge. If it was not getting current to the solonoid, it would not click.
Gary
 
sorry to but in, but i had the same thing happen, and it was just a loose clamp on the battery, not corroded and seemed tight, but as soon as i tried to turn it over it couldnt get enough current. however it could likely be the starter solenoid as well.
 
Thanks folks.

Since I took the starter out to check the contacts and reinstalled I have not been able to duplicate the problem. I HOPE that means there was a loose or bad connection somewhere, but I have a funny feeling about it. Thanks for posting up.
 
same thng

I'm having a similar problem on my wifes fj80, This thread has been very helpful, and if i find anything this week, i'll post and let y'all know how it went
 
Hey browndog, I'm gonna throw in my 2¢ here. Check the battery cable to the solenoid, it may look fine but could be bad.
 
NorCal60 said:
Hey browndog, I'm gonna throw in my 2¢ here. Check the battery cable to the solenoid, it may look fine but could be bad.
Click to expand...

This is worth checking. I've read that over time, they can go bad. High amps takes a toll. Especially since your diesel is harder to start.
 
Very ocassionally, the starter can 'hang up' and ground itself - result is zero movement when power is switched. I had this problem on my 60 a few times, and getting under the truck and tapping it with a wrench was the short term fix.

The long term fix was a new starter. VROOOM!

M
 
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