The first two prototypes went really fast.
These are much better than the stock hinge pins and plastic bushings.
I still have plenty of bushings available. Please keep in mind none of the OEM stamped hinge frames are exactly the same. You may have to massage the flange of the bushings by taking a piece of 400 grit sandpaper on a flat surface and sanding the flange in a figure 8 pattern too get a nice tight fit. These are machined to very tight tolerances and due to other variables, such as paint build up, corrosion and OEM factory differences, will have to be fitted.
If you plan on using my Stainless Pins instead of the OEM’s you may need to clean up the bores of the hinge frame.
This can easily be done by using a 5/16” drill bit for the smaller bore and a 3/8” bit for the larger bores. This can be done by running the bit through the bores by hand and most of the time don’t need to be chucked in the drill.
Most of the time, you won’t be removing any metal, just the rust and junk that has been built up over the years.
I do have both bits for an extra $10, although some hinges may not need them.
Please take your time in fitting the bushings and pins. Make sure where the bushing sits on the flange that it is clean and flat. If not, you will have a difficult time fitting the pins through the bores and will damage the bushings. It is best to remove the hinges one at a time to fit the new parts. You can also use the old pins as a guide to help line up the bushings. Make sure to use a light weight grease on the pins. This will also help with the install.
Once, you are happy with the fit. Make sure to use some kind of thread locker on the shoulder screws.
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN!
Be careful not to mix windshield sets with front door sets. Both of these are close in size (length) but are not interchangeable.
Soon, I will be making them for the hood and ambulance doors.
Stay tuned.....
Thanks