Sprungover Sixties

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84 FJ60
SOA w/OME & 38.5x12.50's
soapic.webp
 
well here's my first post over here..
I've been speninding so much time at my computer I can add another BB to my list :D

Here's my SOA sixty, its my 2nd :cool:

yellow-1.jpg


I still have tons of work left on it though :rolleyes:


oh yeah... there are 2 more SOA sixties overhere in Kona besides mine....

having an SOA on your cruiser is getting to be like having 26" rims on an escalade... every punk kid is doind it :flipoff2:
 
wildman4wheeler said:
Sixty - What size tires are those? That is a really nice lookin cruiser.
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Thanks

BFG 35" Mudders, the only tires you can get here w/ road hazzard (w/ lava you NEED road hazzard)... If I ever get time I'll get some real shots, but for now the only duty it has seen is towning the boat in the back ground :rolleyes:
 
SOA without turning the pumpkin here. 350 SBC, Turbo400, 203 low range box, Cruiser split case makes my front and rear drivelines almost equal in length and at nice angles. Before I did my powertrain conversion my driveline in the front was pretty steep and I had to modify the crossmember to clear it. I could see the benefits of turning the pinion up if the transfer case isn't moved towards the back.
 
turning the nuckles to adjust punkin angle seems like the most complicated step to me. am i correct to think this or shoukd i be more cocerned with something else? thanks for the input 350!

if (when) i go soa i dont plan to modify driveline like 350. anyone out there with stock driveline and no punkin turning?
 
hightide said:
turning the nuckles to adjust punkin angle seems like the most complicated step to me. am i correct to think this or shoukd i be more cocerned with something else? thanks for the input 350!

if (when) i go soa i dont plan to modify driveline like 350. anyone out there with stock driveline and no punkin turning?
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You can generally get away without it.
 
Aaauuuggghhhhhhh!!! Is that the sun or a yellow Cruiser?! I'm blind!!! :D
Maybe this is appropriate? :princess:
Ha! Just kidding, Looks good! :cheers:
 
87CRUSR said:
What is the ballpark cost for the SOA mod?
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It will *really* depend on the amount of fabrication you can do yourself, since a well-done SOA is somewhat labor-intensive. If you can do it all yourself, it's not *that* expensive, although like my Florida friend points out, there's a lot of ancillary costs involved. IMHO, the cutting and turning of the front axle is best left to a shop unless you're very handy at fabrication, but almost everything else can be sourced. You'll need some sort of hi-steer setup (Marlin, All-Pro, 4x4Labs, Sky, OTT), new front shock mounts and preferably a double-cardan driveshaft from an early FJ60 if yours doesn't have one (1987 wouldn't). If you want to keep the antiswaybars, you'll have to figure out a way to extend the links, but it's not complicated. You'll also need new shocks with extended travel and new longer brake lines.

Speaking from experience, I would suggest saving up until you can do the whole thing RIGHT at one time. Muddogbob on this list did it like this and you can really tell the difference, I did the SOA without regearing and it's been a PITA, limiting my offroad use.

My ideal SOA would be a cut-turned front axle with the antiswaybar extended and some reinforcement of the front of the differential, fully custom hoop mounts for the shocks, dual heavy-duty, long-travel driveshafts made to your exact specs, 4.88's with twin ARB's, Longfields with the PIG inners, rebuilt or brand-new AISIN hubs, 37x12.5" tires mounted on steel, non-beadlocked 15x8" rims with custom backspacing, rear anti-swaybar mounts extended with quick-disconnects and a reinforcing ring for the rear differential cover, some sort of anti-springwrap device (see www.jkcustoms.com), extended SS braided brake lines and a Marlin Crawler hi-steer setup with the heavy-duty tie rods and 80 series TRE's. I actually really like the concept of the 4x4Labs setup, but I think it might interfere with the antiswaybar mounts and I'm not willing to give that up for highway driving.
 
Exiled said:
I actually really like the concept of the 4x4Labs setup, but I think it might interfere with the antiswaybar mounts and I'm not willing to give that up for highway driving.
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yes and no. Tom Male has the 4x4Labs arms and an FJ60 antisway on his Pig... and it would work the same on an FJ60, except you would need to customize the sway-bar-mount on the axle.
 
lowtideride said:
I run sprung over with no sway bars.. Not a prob.
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I don't think it's a problem, but there's still a HUGE difference between running with it and without it.

A couple of weeks ago my SOA passed an acid-test; I was driving home from work, going about 50 on right lane of the highway in anticipation of exiting within the next 1/2 mile, when a car two cars in front of me had a blowout, skidded across one lane and slammed into the barrier ahead of me. The car directly in front slammed on its brakes. There was no space for me to bring the beast to a stop without slamming into it, so I swerved completely into the next lane, going fast. No loss of control, no swaying. Gave a liitle thank you prayer to Mudrak that day! :)
 
Henry, I alos have been there several times and really don't feel the need for sway bars. i have driven my truck pretty much ever since ui got it without sway bars. I can tell you I really haven't missed them. Where I think you are more likely to feel the need is on a truck with coils. I have driven a couple of coil sprung trucks with a lifta nd bigger tires and they tend to be much softer...they wheel better but are also softer on road...
 
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