Spray on oil/wax metal protectants

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The Eastwood stuff was good. Not too oily and the water still beads up under there.
 
been thinking that i need to do this also...interested to here what others have used also
 
I use the home-brew waxoyl on the Chevy and 100. Spray it on hot with a garden sprayer, holds up well enough so I didn't need to repeat last winter and might take this winter off too. The wax is semi-hard on the outside, but to the touch it's still oily underneath. To me anything that doesn't have a binder (wax) of some kind in it you may as well just spray on the waste oil of your choice. :meh: My only reservation with this stuff is it's one hell of a fire hazard (hot summer days will remind you of that).

Added benefit that my :princess: loves the smell of linseed.............good thing, because the trucks reek of it for a year afterwards......
 
I found my reciepe on Mud somewhere Muric Acid, mineral oil, wax that comes in a bar that you have to use a cheese grater to get into small enough pieces that when you throw it in with the Muric Acid it will dissolve a bit you leave it over night then heat it up and add the mineral oil, put in a pump up plant sprayer thing. You know the ones with the wand. Then you spray it on and drive over a dusty road or not but that was the formula
 
Randy:

I've used a lot of that Amsoil MP stuff, I keep several cans in my inventory. The spray cans are very handy, it does work well, but it will discolor and stain lighter paints.

I also have had very good luck with a product called RusFre. I have a couple of gallons in the garage, I use a sprayer that I bought from JC Whitney, it works best to warm it up first. They also sell their own gun system. Cures in a few hours to a sticky waxy residue, hard to get off (which is a good thing). It's hard to find, but there are a few places on the web where you can order it.

Liberal applications of 90W are still my preference.
 
I ordered CorrosionX and am patiently waiting for it to arrive.
 
i'm also interested to find out more about the best product for the job.. i've never done this to my rig and it's my DD..

not to hijack.. along the same topic.. i was intending to repaint the frame soon.. but wasn't gonna get to that till spring.. so is it a bad idea for me to spray one of these products under there for the winter since i'm planning to paint soon?? will it be a total bitch to clean the stuff off enough to get paint to stick come spring?
 
Thanks for the input all.

Ken - good to know about the Amsoil HD staining and enough to steer clear of it. How long does the 90w stay on during winter months. Think it works as well a anything else out there?

Mark - i would wait to undercoat until you have painted. Removing all the oil/wax or whatever you use will be a PITA and very time consuming. It's taken me about 8 hours to vacuum out the dirt in the frame rails, scrub the frame with scotchbrite pads, wire wheeled some areas, and still have a couple hours left before degreasing, spraying a rust converter, & painting. Could be done in a weekend at your pops shop. Going another winter with a naked frame would not be good. Especially with the frame cut job we did on your rig. If you want to buy a little time, try rubbing the frame with some scotchbrite pads and then spray with a rust converting primer for the winter.

John - would like to see the CorrosionX stuff when you get it.

Jim - explain fire hazard. :eek:
 
I wouldn't hesitate to use the Amsoil stuff on the undercarraige and other stuff that is painted black, like bumpers and sliders that are scraped up. My truck is in a bad need of a paint job now, so I don't mind the brown stains where I've let it soak in. I like spraying it in the bottom of the doors, let it drip out the drain holes. The bottoms of mini doors have that infamous folded seam that catch dirt and water and eventually rust, but mine are still pristine (under all the dirt, of course).

I also sprayed it all over my snowblower the other day. Right before the engine siezed.

The 90W takes several coats to get a coating built up, then it won't come off without a strong degreaser. Most of my frame still has perfect factory paint on it, I could wax it.
 
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