time to rebuild the carb on my 84 fj60. found a 1980 2f manual online and it mentions special service tools. one looks like an angle gauge i cannot tell what the others are. does anyone know what special tools are needed to rebuild the carb? or better yet have a complete tool list for a carb rebuild?
special tools for carburator rebuild
- Thread starter PapsD
- Start date
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just saw this on another thread.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/va-dc-md-capital-land-cruiser-club/540574-carb-rebuild-video-youtube.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/va-dc-md-capital-land-cruiser-club/540574-carb-rebuild-video-youtube.html
the search function works wonders on this forum.....
There are many threads that have step by step procedures to rebuild a carb.....
Try it...it really works.
There are many threads that have step by step procedures to rebuild a carb.....
Try it...it really works.
No special tools required. You need a good set of screwdrivers, a good set of 1/4" or 3/8" drive metric sockets, a bunch of carb cleaner, a manual and the right kit.
what he said ... and some common sense
What the OP is asking about is the 'angle gauge' and prolly the 'wire gauge' mentioned in the FSM... Don't remove the butterfly valves (you shouldn't anyway), and all you'll need is what's mentioned above. Presuming your carb isn't buggered to begin with.
You will also have to grind down the sides of a large screwdriver to get the Jets out.
In my sig line are pdf downloads if you need them. 2F manual has 60-series USA rebuild procedure. I think the manual you mention is for earlier 40 series.
You will also have to grind down the sides of a large screwdriver to get the Jets out.
In my sig line are pdf downloads if you need them. 2F manual has 60-series USA rebuild procedure. I think the manual you mention is for earlier 40 series.
To get the power valve out, I just widened the head of a flathead screwdriver with a torch/hammer/anvil, and then filed the end square. Worked great. Word of advice, though: don't work tool steel when it's not red hot; it'll crack like a SOB.
In retrospect, it would have been a lot easier to just grind down a big screwdriver, but my method was free, and I got to pretend to be a blacksmith for a few minutes.
Oh, also, I think the angle gauge in the FSM is for adjusting the float, which shouldn't be necessary either.
In retrospect, it would have been a lot easier to just grind down a big screwdriver, but my method was free, and I got to pretend to be a blacksmith for a few minutes.
Oh, also, I think the angle gauge in the FSM is for adjusting the float, which shouldn't be necessary either.
The angle gauge is for adjusting the float. Although the tool isn't necessary, adjusting the new float that comes in a good Carb kit is.
This is what they look like, but as you can see, still in the bag ---
I have to second that -- Either Jim C. or Mark Algazy. You'll get back a carb that is better than new. Particularly if you're looking to de-smog.
That's why my s*** is still in the bag. Mark did mine.
That's why my s*** is still in the bag. Mark did mine.
I have the special tools shown above. I went through with the angle gauge, but did not have to adjust anything. My guess is, if you have a stock undamaged carb that just needs a rebuild, you will not need to do the adjustments either.
The screwdriver tools are nice, but not needed either.
The screwdriver tools are nice, but not needed either.
I disagree. Unfortunately, there is a LOT of variation in the overall height of the needle and seat assembly from kit mfgr to kit mfgr, and sometimes even from the same source.
However, that said, it still does not mean you need special service tools. What you need is to
a. pay attention that your float was set at the proper height before you disassembled your carb [i.e. fuel level in the middle of the window.
b. note the distance from the float to the air horn with the horn inverted BEFORE you disassemble the carb.
c. adjust the tabs on the float with the new needle and seat assembly to achieve the same distance while incorporating the appropriate gap between the float tab and the needle.
Best
Mark A.
- Thread starter
- #14
thanks everyone! It's my first time rebuilding a carb plus my cruiser is a little bit of a basket case and just want to make 100% sure that it gets done right. I have access to alot of precision tools but wasn't sure about the special service tools and would hate to take it apart and not be able to get it back together. I got the kit from napa and a bucket of carb cleaner with a basket. If it doesn't work out i'll get a hold of Jim or Mark about getting the carb rebuilt.
I disagree. Unfortunately, there is a LOT of variation in the overall height of the needle and seat assembly from kit mfgr to kit mfgr, and sometimes even from the same source.
However, that said, it still does not mean you need special service tools. What you need is to
a. pay attention that your float was set at the proper height before you disassembled your carb [i.e. fuel level in the middle of the window.
b. note the distance from the float to the air horn with the horn inverted BEFORE you disassemble the carb.
c. adjust the tabs on the float with the new needle and seat assembly to achieve the same distance while incorporating the appropriate gap between the float tab and the needle.
Best
Mark A.
Yeah. Of couse Mark is correct. I was thinking about the angle gauge and not the gap blocks. In fact, I don't think I even knew what those were for...now I know I can use them to set the float adjustment. Thanks Mark!
If it's your first carb rebuild and you plan on doing it yourself the best tool you can have is a camera, take a photo of everything as you take it apart. This will save you scratching your head trying to find where every little bit goes
- Thread starter
- #17
Waaay ahead of u. My engine is desmogged already and took pics as I took everything off the carb.