Builds Spdstr280Z's While I'm in There 80 Series Build... (1 Viewer)

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...or "I really don't make good decisions, so let's just put it out there for the world to see." But that's a long thread title.

Goals for the build...

I don't do a ton of wheeling, but the next time my friends call and want to do something like Moab or the Mohave Road, I want to be able to hop in and go.

Well, guess what......

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Hope no one minds if I share some vacation photos. Most of them will have an 80 in them. Apologies in advance for my buddy's Heep in there.

I live in NE Georgia, my buddy lives in our home town in NW North Carolina, so we met up in Tennessee and headed to our first destination in Texas, with a side trip to the giant Bass Pro in Memphis.

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After a surprisingly decent nights sleep (this was the first time I had camped in the 80, and i just put the seats up and put a couple pads and a sleeping bag in the floor) we drove on through Valley of the Gods, stopped by Goosenecks, and headed on to Moab. We camped at the Gemini Bridges sites.

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Going back in time a little bit, I cleaned up and repainted the frame that was exposed with the engine out. I used Eastwood 2K spray bombs, epoxy primer and chassis black. Turned out decent...

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Obviously Toyota has proven the strength of this chassis and their welding processes. And I guess I do have to remember this was done nearly 30 years ago. But.... I work for a heavy equipment manufacturer, and this surface quality, weld spatter and weld wire stingers would get our frames sent back to Fabrications. Funny to see.

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Jason
Hello. Great thread 👍 can you elaborate on what you did to the chassis?
“I used Eastwood 2K spray bombs, epoxy primer and chassis black”
 
Hello. Great thread 👍 can you elaborate on what you did to the chassis?
“I used Eastwood 2K spray bombs, epoxy primer and chassis black”

Thanks, appreciate that. Standard cleaning, degreasing, pressure wash, etc. Anywhere there was rust or flaking paint I did some combination of sanding, wire wheel or griding if needed (I don't remember that any serious rust cleanup was needed in the front, it was too oily to rust). The products mentioned are from a company called "Eastwood" that specializes in automotive restoration products. "Spray bomb" is just a term for an aerosol can.

These are the products used in that post, chassis black and epoxy primer. Later I used similar (I suspect the same actually, Eastwood doesn't actually manufacture the paint, and the cans are the same) paints from SprayMax. The special thing about these are they are "2K", or 2 part paint with activator. Results in a better curing, more durable finish. There is a capsule in the can that you push in a pin that bursts it. Shake and the activated paint is ready to use, and good for around 24 hours in the can.

Aerosol spray paint used to only be 1 part (non activated) and "spray bomb" might have actually been derogatory in that it was not as good a paint as "real" automotive paints.

I also used a lot of VHT "Roll bar and chassis" paint. It is 1 part and a lot cheaper, and seems to be holding up pretty well, so it doesn't have to be the expensive stuff for chassis.

Jason
 
Thanks, appreciate that. Standard cleaning, degreasing, pressure wash, etc. Anywhere there was rust or flaking paint I did some combination of sanding, wire wheel or griding if needed (I don't remember that any serious rust cleanup was needed in the front, it was too oily to rust). The products mentioned are from a company called "Eastwood" that specializes in automotive restoration products. "Spray bomb" is just a term for an aerosol can.

These are the products used in that post, chassis black and epoxy primer. Later I used similar (I suspect the same actually, Eastwood doesn't actually manufacture the paint, and the cans are the same) paints from SprayMax. The special thing about these are they are "2K", or 2 part paint with activator. Results in a better curing, more durable finish. There is a capsule in the can that you push in a pin that bursts it. Shake and the activated paint is ready to use, and good for around 24 hours in the can.

Aerosol spray paint used to only be 1 part (non activated) and "spray bomb" might have actually been derogatory in that it was not as good a paint as "real" automotive paints.

I also used a lot of VHT "Roll bar and chassis" paint. It is 1 part and a lot cheaper, and seems to be holding up pretty well, so it doesn't have to be the expensive stuff for chassis.

Jason
So you didn’t strip the front chassis to bare metal? Epoxy primer (what brand? Same Eastwood?) first I guess then the 2k primer. Then the chassis black?
I actually have some SprayMax weld through primer “spray bomb” haven’t use it yet.
 
So you didn’t strip the front chassis to bare metal? Epoxy primer (what brand? Same Eastwood?) first I guess then the 2k primer. Then the chassis black?
I actually have some SprayMax weld through primer “spray bomb” haven’t use it yet.
Only where it was already flaking off or had rust. Good paint was scuffed with a Scotch Brite. Yes, the Eastwood products linked above. Epoxy primer on metal, then the chassis black. Both are 2K.

Jason
 

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