SPC Caster/Camber Adjustment Bolts (1 Viewer)

[Volunteer]

Searching the forum last night I couldn't find any mentions on these SPC adjustment bolts so please excuse the duplicate if I missed it. Looking to see if anyone has experience with these? I just added the Tough Dog lift with the OEM spacers up front and trying to avoid the UCA's if possible. I would certainly pull the trigger on the UCA's if needed to get the tires to wear correctly. My alignment is within specs but just a tad bit out on the camber from my tires sitting flat and I'm trying to avoid abnormal wear on the front tires. Seems these SPC bolts could put me where I want to be just curious if anyone else tried them and if they saw the increased adjustment value using them. Thanks

• Cruiser - Caster/Camber Adjustment: +/- 1.5 Degrees

SPC 25450: Caster/Camber Adjustment Bolts for 2007-2016 Toyota Tundra and 2008-2016 Sequioa/Land Cruiser/Lexus LX570 | JEGS

 

[TexAZ]

Willybeamin and a couple others have used them to replace the rusted OEM hardware, but not to increase adjustability.
if it works out that you can bring the castor into spec with just the lower arms, that would save others only looking for a moderate lift from having to get the upper arms.

the general consensus is if you are going over 2.5" in lift, you'll need upper arms.

 

[Volunteer]

Thanks for the feedback, I always value the MUD Guru's experience on what works and what don't.

 

[NLScooby]

I am running these. I needed to replace mine when I replaced the LCA's as you'll find the factory ones seized (and you need to cut them off!)
The SPC bolts are good and beefy and are designed not to seize. IIRC, they were even less expensive..... I would recommend them if you find yourself needing new bolts.

 

[Volunteer]

Thanks @NLScooby I'm going to order them. My factory bolts are in good shape but I'm hoping I can get the claimed adjustment of +/- 1.5 degrees with the SPC set which should put me where I want to be on the alignment and tire footprint.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

We use (and stock them) with great results.

 

[chilibit]

When I added the 2013 it was a nightmare on the highway because it required constant adjustment of the steering. We added positive caster but keeping the sides even I could not get to the positive end of the Toyota spec. It is OK but I would like to bump slightly further positive. It is a stock suspension with the 17" RW wheels and 33's. So this SPC part will allow more positive camber? Another half degree would be great. I know I am repeating Volunteer's question. Maybe I am just slow this morning. TIA

 

[Volunteer]

When I added the 2013 it was a nightmare on the highway because it required constant adjustment of the steering. We added positive caster but keeping the sides even I could not get to the positive end of the Toyota spec. It is OK but I would like to bump slightly further positive. It is a stock suspension with the 17" RW wheels and 33's. So this SPC part will allow more positive camber? Another half degree would be great. I know I am repeating Volunteer's question. Maybe I am just slow this morning. TIA

If you get the +/- 1.5 degree adjustment they advertise I think that will work for you as well. I'll report back for those that maybe looking for the same info down the road.

 

[chilibit]

I look forward to hearing of your results. Thanks.

 

[Volunteer]

I wanted to check with SPC to see if that was an additional adjustment over the factory bolts or just the total range adjustment. Here is their answer.

Total range only. This is an OE replacement cam with a corrosion resistant coating superior to the OE bolt. This kit will not give you much over what the OE bolt will get, but will not freeze into the bushing like the OE bolt.

 

[chilibit]

Yes, that was the uncertainty I had as well. I started to call them and then saw this thread. Thanks for your efforts. In my case I had concluded that I had stacked manufacturing tolerances on my truck that they were not helping me. I don't see a use case for control arms in my situation.

 

[Volunteer]

Yes, that was the uncertainty I had as well. I started to call them and then saw this thread. Thanks for your efforts. In my case I had concluded that I had stacked manufacturing tolerances on my truck that they were not helping me. I don't see a use case for control arms in my situation.

Certainly understand, the SPC bolts still may help your case if your not getting the full adjustment range on the factory bolts and maybe worth a try for $100. Good luck with getting it dialed in In my case I guess I'm shopping UCA's

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

SPC cam bolts won't give any additional adjustment over factory cams.

To gain additional adjustment from the lower, you would have to increase the size of the "coin face"/the thing with marks on it that you can see. That would also mean you have to cut off the cam tabs and weld on larger ones. Physics... it's fantastic.

SPC cams are a nice, cheaper option for rust issues, but that's all they can provide.

 

[Willy beamin]

Bingo - the tech reps at SPC will tell you the same thing

 

[linuxgod]

When I added the 2013 it was a nightmare on the highway because it required constant adjustment of the steering. We added positive caster but keeping the sides even I could not get to the positive end of the Toyota spec. It is OK but I would like to bump slightly further positive. It is a stock suspension with the 17" RW wheels and 33's. So this SPC part will allow more positive camber? Another half degree would be great. I know I am repeating Volunteer's question. Maybe I am just slow this morning. TIA

Yes, you need more caster. I found the same thing and it annoyed the crap out of me. And the steering adjustments weren't minor - I felt like if I wasn't careful I would drift into another lane if I didn't use enough correction.

I ended up putting a 2" lift and 34" tires on after ~18 months, and I had the alignment shop push the caster about 0.5 degrees past positive spec (about 4 degrees on the PS, 3.5 degrees on the DS). They also reduced camber to just below neutral in my case to help neutralize the front suspension from weight of towing. My truck runs incredibly straight now with zero correction required on the highway, and if I do adjust the truck immediately follows my steering input instead of feeling like there's play in the wheel.

If the shop can't get your caster all the way to +3.5 degrees (passenger side) then you may need to look into adjustable UCAs. @Taco2Cruiser is the alignment expert so he may very well overrule my opinion but don't be afraid to give up a bit of camber to do so.

 

[chilibit]

Been there. I am limited by the adjustment in the eccentric and needing to allow for road crowns where we drive on the right hand side. I did not trade in camber though. Presently my tire wear (chalking) is nearly perfect. I am tempted to leave it be. Better is often the enemy of good enough.

 

[linuxgod]

Been there. I am limited by the adjustment in the eccentric and needing to allow for road crowns where we drive on the right hand side. I did not trade in camber though. Presently my tire wear (chalking) is nearly perfect. I am tempted to leave it be. Better is often the enemy of good enough.

I figured as much.

If you're ever in Chicago you're welcome to drive my truck on the highway and see the difference.