Source for rebuilt booster pump on master cylinder

[superdawg]

Recently the dash lit up like like a Christmas tree w/ the annoying whine. ABS, Atrac, 8 track, half track and other lights came on. The power in the power brakes became intermittent then died completely. The booster motor at the bottom of the master cylinder was not working. 15 years, 192,000 miles.

Here is my chance to give back to the forum something helpful:
I found the following shop in Santa Ana, CA that does a lot of these rebuilds. Tim (owner) prefers to have you bring in the whole master cylinder and he usually has a booster motor on the shelf to swap it out. I waited 15 minutes and he was done, installed. $250 out the door, one year warranty. I remember he said new commutator, brushes, and maybe windings. Tim advised there are two types of motors, a heavy duty one and a light duty one. The Landcruiser/LX470 use the heavy duty one.

This can be an expensive repair so this is a money saving option for some. The shop's a little dusty but he knows his stuff. They also repair ECU's there.
Auto Electric Rebuilders
1421 N. Harbor Blvd
Santa Ana, CA 92703
714.554.1515

I rebuilt the M/C with the new piston. Easy job. After bleeding the brakes, the lights and alarms were still on. A little worried that the accumulator was bad. I started it the next morning, the reservoir level went down about a half inch and the lights/alarm went out. No codes stored. Must have worked out the air in the system. ABS works.
I previously had always had a spongy pedal that went 3/4 down. Now the brakes are firm and in the top third of pedal travel.

Always good to have options.
Tom

 

[superdawg]

Scratch what I said about firm brake pedal. Brakes are still soft but seems to work fine. No problems so far.

 

[Scottb4857]

Scratch what I said about firm brake pedal. Brakes are still soft but seems to work fine. No problems so far.

If you've changed the piston and all else is good in the M/C assembly you shouldn't have a soft pedal. Read the FSM carefully and follow the bleeding procedure. If you don't have one of the SST's you will find it very difficult to bleed by yourself - even vacuum bleeders don't usually work correctly. One other thing, if there is air in the lines it doesn't work itself out - system is closed for a reason so air stays trapped in the lines unless you bleed them correctly.

 

[Ermagerd]

That is awesome, i will keep them in mind if mine craps out.

 

[YardPig]

Yes, lots of good info here, thanks.

 

[e9999]

good info, thanks.
you may want to put a blurb in the brake poll thread to let people know

 

[ponytl]

I have seen no where on the net that rebuilds these... really good to know... the prices I see are $1k+

 

[JCII100]

Thank you

Recently the dash lit up like like a Christmas tree w/ the annoying whine. ABS, Atrac, 8 track, half track and other lights came on. The power in the power brakes became intermittent then died completely. The booster motor at the bottom of the master cylinder was not working. 15 years, 192,000 miles.

Here is my chance to give back to the forum something helpful:
I found the following shop in Santa Ana, CA that does a lot of these rebuilds. Tim (owner) prefers to have you bring in the whole master cylinder and he usually has a booster motor on the shelf to swap it out. I waited 15 minutes and he was done, installed. $250 out the door, one year warranty. I remember he said new commutator, brushes, and maybe windings. Tim advised there are two types of motors, a heavy duty one and a light duty one. The Landcruiser/LX470 use the heavy duty one.

This can be an expensive repair so this is a money saving option for some. The shop's a little dusty but he knows his stuff. They also repair ECU's there.
Auto Electric Rebuilders
1421 N. Harbor Blvd
Santa Ana, CA 92703
714.554.1515

I rebuilt the M/C with the new piston. Easy job. After bleeding the brakes, the lights and alarms were still on. A little worried that the accumulator was bad. I started it the next morning, the reservoir level went down about a half inch and the lights/alarm went out. No codes stored. Must have worked out the air in the system. ABS works.
I previously had always had a spongy pedal that went 3/4 down. Now the brakes are firm and in the top third of pedal travel.

Always good to have options.
Tom

 

[superdawg]

Thank you

I'm sorry. I didn't read the beginning of the thread that apparently I started.......

 

[Eliot]

Scratch what I said about firm brake pedal. Brakes are still soft but seems to work fine. No problems so far.

If you still have a soft pedal after performing a rebuild, consider adjusting the push rod on the Master Cylinder. See my post in the link below (post #105 about half way down the page).

Master Cylinder Rebuild - DIY

 

[JCII100]

Took your suggestion and worked. Thank you for helping me save couple thousand dollars.

Recently the dash lit up like like a Christmas tree w/ the annoying whine. ABS, Atrac, 8 track, half track and other lights came on. The power in the power brakes became intermittent then died completely. The booster motor at the bottom of the master cylinder was not working. 15 years, 192,000 miles.

Here is my chance to give back to the forum something helpful:
I found the following shop in Santa Ana, CA that does a lot of these rebuilds. Tim (owner) prefers to have you bring in the whole master cylinder and he usually has a booster motor on the shelf to swap it out. I waited 15 minutes and he was done, installed. $250 out the door, one year warranty. I remember he said new commutator, brushes, and maybe windings. Tim advised there are two types of motors, a heavy duty one and a light duty one. The Landcruiser/LX470 use the heavy duty one.

This can be an expensive repair so this is a money saving option for some. The shop's a little dusty but he knows his stuff. They also repair ECU's there.
Auto Electric Rebuilders
1421 N. Harbor Blvd
Santa Ana, CA 92703
714.554.1515

I rebuilt the M/C with the new piston. Easy job. After bleeding the brakes, the lights and alarms were still on. A little worried that the accumulator was bad. I started it the next morning, the reservoir level went down about a half inch and the lights/alarm went out. No codes stored. Must have worked out the air in the system. ABS works.
I previously had always had a spongy pedal that went 3/4 down. Now the brakes are firm and in the top third of pedal travel.

Always good to have options.
Tom

 

[superdawg]

Took your suggestion and worked. Thank you for helping me save couple thousand dollars.

Awesome. Glad to hear it.

 

[Beazer76]

@superdawg how is the rebuild working out? Everything still holding up? - Trying to decide my next steps with mine...

 

[superdawg]

Funny you should ask. Three years in and the pump seems to be working fine. I believe my ABS unit is on the way out though. Yaay.

 

[thex2]

Funny you should ask. Three years in and the pump seems to be working fine. I believe my ABS unit is on the way out though. Yaay.

How about now, 6 years later?

 

[userJ12]

How about now, 6 years later?

Im curious to know this as well, since im in the same boat, no brakes

 

[superdawg]

Well, almost seven years and 48,000 miles later, the master cylinder and ABS are working fine. A recent trip from Socal to Utah went well. I am fortunate that lately I have been averaging only 3,000 miles per year on that particular vehicle. Gas is pricey. Still garaged every night.
If it goes bad again, I will replace with new parts.

 

[nissanh]

Rebuilt should be fine but never good as a Toyota factory product. Just check the accumulator motor run time. If you got funds, install a Brand New OEm accumulator with the rebulit motor. I've been studying this issues and the motor fails if accumulator looses pressure (due to N2 loss inside the accumulator)

 

[userJ12]

Rebuilt should be fine but never good as a Toyota factory product. Just check the accumulator motor run time. If you got funds, install a Brand New OEm accumulator with the rebulit motor. I've been studying this issues and the motor fails if accumulator looses pressure (due to N2 loss inside the accumulator)

During this research, I found that some people claimed that this issue came as early as 44,000 miles, in which the owner claimed that he switched the Toyota branded brake fluid to an aftermaket one kind of brand.
Maybe some kind of negative chemical reaction after this change? Who knows...
So coming back to my case, I found a guy that will do the motor and another to remove the unit to access the motor, my fluid looks crappy so probably take it out and put Toyota branded brake fluid just to be sure.

 

[nissanh]

The low mile failure is due to driving in heavy traffic. Foot on brake makes the pump to run at all times. The fluid should not cause the motor to fail. I use Preston and most countries around the world do not use toyota fluid and they are still doing fine.