Soundproofing

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Second Skin Rep:

Saw on your website that a guy with a 1936 rod resto used the spray only with no matting. He cited that he felt it would trap water and cause rust. Does the matting absorb water?

Say hypothetically using all your products together results in 100% sound deadening. What percentage would you say just doing the brush-on or spray-on product only would register in at? I know it's impossible to give an exact number but an estimate would help.

Thanks!! John

Hello!
One thing to remember, is that our products are ALL specificly designed to be used in vehicles. There ar ea lot of companies that buy products from other industries and sell them for automotive applications. These have limits, unlike ours.
Anyone that is afraid of using our product for its intended purpose is usually uninformed or misinformed.

If I told you, that I never took my FJ off road becuase I was afraid that is would not be able to handle the dirt roads and might leave me stranded, would that make sence?

Many customer use the sprays for their entire projects. Some use the mats.
You will not have to worry about moisture or rust with our products. They have all been engineerd to handle this stuff.

To get the best vibration damping results with a combination of products I would go 50/50 with mats to liquid.
The typicle cruiser will take80 feet of Damplifier or Damplifier Pro with 5 gallons of Spectrum.
This is a good foundation, though some peopl may do more...

Hope that helps

ANT
www.secondskinaudio.com
 
I've just finished laying out a single layer of the Damplifier on the entire floor of the truck along with SOR's carpet kit. It has made a significant difference to the point that the FJ55 is almost as quiet as the BJ60! Before the damplifier no one wanted to ride in it and they all called it "The Tank", now my wife rather likes driving it!
What is the next level to kill off more road and engine noise? I still have about 10 sheets of the 100 sq.ft. box left as well as a gallon of the Spectrum spray which I'm a little leery about spraying in a finished truck.
Ideas??
 
Good stuff. I'd like to see pics if possible as I plan that in the future.

In street rods we do the floors, but also get really quiet by doing the insides of the doors and int quarters.

If the headliner is out, the inside roof (ceiling?) makes a big difference.

We've run some "thumpy" big block cars with hard mounts and the interior sound is on par with modern cars.

Also, I just did a hinge rebuild (fronts) on my Pig and that made a heck of a difference.

In other restos, of course the window channels, window scr pers, and door gaskets totally quiets the cabin noise.

Lastly, esp with the B-series, you may want to D-amp the firewall, then putting another layer of liquid deadener...

BTW, did you do the floor area behind the rear seat? Been pondering this as I like the utility look (can't be too quiet, it's
a LandCruiser!) of the painted metal:grinpimp:

Best Regards,
George
 
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Yep. I plan on pictures in my POTM coming soon. I'd like to be able to put off the POTM for a couple of months since I'm going into surgery in a week and a half and won't be able to do a good job right now.

Do you spray the insides of the doors or do you use the rubber mat? I'm concerned that the rubber mat will peel or come off over time.

I've done as far up the firewall as I can without removing the A/C or heater and the damplifier goes all the way to the tailgate and includes the rear wheel arches. The SOR carpet kit has a cargo carpet included. I wouldn't do the cargo area without the carpet going in as I think the foil on the Damplifier would get torn up pretty quickly.

The headliner is in and the factory matt was removed when the headliner was out.

I think I may do another layer in the front (firewall to front seat) and then spray or brush the Spectrum over top of that.

I've got all the weatherstripping I can locate for the doors and tailgate. Today I'll finish up the lower tailgate weatherstrip/window scraper.

Most of my noise I think is engine noise. The FJ55 has fewer rattles than the BJ60 but thats probably directly related to the back seat in the '60. The pins are loose and I'm not sure how to tighten them yet. The '60 also probably has double the road miles of the '55.
 
I've done mat inside the doors and rear quarters which has held up fine for years. Apply only to a clean surface- that's the secret, SUPER clean.

I plan to use the same brand as you this time around so I cannot say for certain, but I imagine his company has done its' homework being "up to date" so it's likely their stuff sticks well.

The firewall is super-important for sound. The mat does really well when covered with a liquid deadener. I've used a "poly-urea" liquid that expands a little once applied, like spray foam but just 1/8 inch of swelling.

There's also a big benefit in finding "hot spots" where a body panel shakes like a drum head. If you can zero-in, it is possible to use only a smaller square of sound mat to "kill" a panel.

You can make that Pig very quiet. My only reservation is from the rear seats, back in my rig. I really like the metal floor and metal seatback.

Then after reading your post, I realized that I might be able to apply liquid deadener from underneath, a bit like a high-tech undercoat!:idea: :cool:

Curious to see how your sound-killing mission pans out. I'm many months from doing mine...

Best Regards,
George
 
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