2004 Lexus LX470. I'm a retard and was in a hurry to put back the power steering pressure feed tube that goes from the PS pump to the steering rack, instead of undoing the fasteners holding the tube, I tried to wing it and screw in the banjo bolt that holds down the gasket and tube to the steering rack. Few turns later and it's super hard and I notice that the bolt isn't straight, and now the first few threads on the bolt hole is stripped! Every time I try to put only the bolt into the hole (or with the gasket and tube), it refuses to go on straight and when I do get it lined up straight, it's hard to get a 17mm socket into that crevice and keep it screwed on straight as it keeps moving around because it's not locked into those first few threads. Is there a way to fix this without bringing out the entire steering rack?? I'm close to losing my s*** right now as it's been a roller coaster working on this car for a week.
(SOLVED!!) Stripped out steering rack bolt hole! Need help ASAP!! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Chibu
- Start date
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I do not know this exact bolt, but what's the male thread like?
If it's damaged can you tidy it up with a triangle file, or even cut off a few mm of the male thread so you've got at least one part of the two with good thread?
EDIT: Oh. I see the photo of the female now. That's pretty bad and will probably benefit from a tapered thread tap
If it's damaged can you tidy it up with a triangle file, or even cut off a few mm of the male thread so you've got at least one part of the two with good thread?
EDIT: Oh. I see the photo of the female now. That's pretty bad and will probably benefit from a tapered thread tap
- Thread starter
- #4
The male thread is still surprisingly good. I pulled the other banjo bolt at the power steering pump and the threads were just as good as the banjo bolt for the stripped hole in question. Problem is it won't go in straight into the hole, only at the angle that caused the hole threads to initially strip. The banjo bolt is a 17mm bolt.
It sounds silly, but sometimes swapping the male bolt for another the same size can make the difference between getting the threads started or not. You'll need patience and a bit of space to get your 'new' bolt lined up straight, and then use fingers (rather than a tool) if possible
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Can you re-tap it?
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
No, just put some oil on it and slowly turn it in. It will recut the threads and clean out the junk. Space might be a problem.
- Thread starter
- #14
F. Oh well, i'll see what I can do. If hell breaks loose I might cave in and let my dad call a mechanic to deal with it. What's so horrible about all this is that I just changed out the CV axle, drive flange, tie rod end and tie rod boot and bearings on driver side. I sent out the power steering pressure tube to get it fixed up because the rubber part of it cut, then I had to get a new gasket for this same bolt and bolt hole. Then this morning rather than taking the right steps to fit the tube back, I rushed, and now it's a bigger problem. This is the mother of all bummers for me. I was just trying to feel that 4WD for the first time in years. *quietly sobs in a corner*
Good time to slow down and regain your optimism. Nothing worse than making things worse as you throw the sink at what seems to be an intractable problem.
Too bad that they only make expandable back Taps for repairing spark plug holes. I love them since you can put them down to the good threads- expand them to engage the good threads and then screw out the tool cutting the top threads clean. I have no idea why they do not offer these in sets for any size or pitch hole.
If you have a few spare bolts laying around there are a few cheap tricks you can try to repair the lead-in threads.
If your tapered tap or thread chaser (assuming you have or can buy one) does not have enough of a lead-in to re-cut the messed top threads squarely- you could try grinding down the diameter at the end to have more lead-in.
If you do not have a tap set or a thread chaser of the correct pitch and diameter- there are a few tricks you can try using bolts of the correct pitch and diameter you may have around.
One trick is to turn down/off ( I have a lathe so this is a no-brainer) the end threads of the bolt so you have a long lead of the correct diameter to slip down the hole which will keep the bolt straight when you insert it. You can file off the threads if you only have files. If you have a dremel with a small cut-off wheel, you can also cut a few longitudinal slots into the upper threads creating a thread chaser to re-cut the upper threads. Clean up the bottom threads of the bolt with a fine file so you have a good lead-in thread. Important---- Run it through a test nut first to make sure it threads in smoothly. With your new chaser with grease on it -you may be able to re-cut the upper threads squarely with the grease holding the swarf.
Another trick is to cut a slot down the center of a bolt and using your vice and two pieces of wood- squeeze the bolt to close up the slot. Often this allows you to loosely screw in the bolt past the cross threads at the top and keeps the bolt straight. The good threads will re-cut the top threads in the hole.
This is all I can think of.
Too bad that they only make expandable back Taps for repairing spark plug holes. I love them since you can put them down to the good threads- expand them to engage the good threads and then screw out the tool cutting the top threads clean. I have no idea why they do not offer these in sets for any size or pitch hole.
If you have a few spare bolts laying around there are a few cheap tricks you can try to repair the lead-in threads.
If your tapered tap or thread chaser (assuming you have or can buy one) does not have enough of a lead-in to re-cut the messed top threads squarely- you could try grinding down the diameter at the end to have more lead-in.
If you do not have a tap set or a thread chaser of the correct pitch and diameter- there are a few tricks you can try using bolts of the correct pitch and diameter you may have around.
One trick is to turn down/off ( I have a lathe so this is a no-brainer) the end threads of the bolt so you have a long lead of the correct diameter to slip down the hole which will keep the bolt straight when you insert it. You can file off the threads if you only have files. If you have a dremel with a small cut-off wheel, you can also cut a few longitudinal slots into the upper threads creating a thread chaser to re-cut the upper threads. Clean up the bottom threads of the bolt with a fine file so you have a good lead-in thread. Important---- Run it through a test nut first to make sure it threads in smoothly. With your new chaser with grease on it -you may be able to re-cut the upper threads squarely with the grease holding the swarf.
Another trick is to cut a slot down the center of a bolt and using your vice and two pieces of wood- squeeze the bolt to close up the slot. Often this allows you to loosely screw in the bolt past the cross threads at the top and keeps the bolt straight. The good threads will re-cut the top threads in the hole.
This is all I can think of.
And how much time to pull the wheels and tierod’s vs how much time you’ve already spent with the bolt and posting on here?
Any mechanic you take it to is just gonna end up pulling the rack out and probably just charge you to replace the entire thing.
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- Thread starter
- #19
Bruh, i'm just asking because I genuinely do not know/hope that's not what it will take.
Good luck. Just sharing what I would do in your shoes
