SOA without other drivetrain? (1 Viewer)

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of what i know you should have the drive train in so you know where to point the pinion and how much to cut n turn and the springs should be compressed like they are when the drive trains in
 
I would not do it without the drive train. It will be a lot easier if everything is there. :)
 
I did it with the drivetrain out. If you cut and turn the standard 14 degrees and back 2-4 for caster you should be fine. (Total would be pinion rotate 10 degrees) I rotated 16 degrees and back 2 for a total of 14 degrees. The rear I mocked up the T case and pointed the pinion. You need a 5 - 10 degree tilt in the pinion for the U joint. My 2 cents.
 
do it now... that is how I did mine and it worked great.
1. do the SOA with new perches, u-bolts, etc. - Bolt it together with the pinion close to where you think it goes (DO NOT WELD THEM YET)
2. put in the entire drive train - use a string between pinions to show you correct drive train placement - put a plum-bob off of the front and end of the transfer & line up with the pinion string
3. STRONG tac-weld the drive train & check by putting the tub on
4. Do all the math & double check everything
5. Remove tub and FINAL weld your drive train reinstall the tub on & etc.
6. loosen the u-bolts & put the pinions where they should go - final weld them on
7. take degree measurements on front caster
8. remove front axle and do cut and turn @ correct *

you are done... :)
 
I am in the middle of a motor conversion and soa too. I did the front SR while the motor was out cause it was alot easier to get in there and drill and weld the sleve without the motor. And just like Fred says- once the motor and everything is in, then weld the perches on when you know where to point the diff. I put my spring hanger and sleeve 42" apart, and will be running a 5.5" shackle on stock front springs.

-Dustin
 

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