Jumbled Info
Here's my collection so far. I've been researching for a few weeks. I have cut and pasted things from different members so the following is jumbled but should help you get started.
SOA layout:
SOA U/N’s: Chicago, rondog, kavik, lowtideride, calicruiser, redcorn (mild SOA), dieslecruiserhead (andre),
Rough Parts List:
Low mount Shackle reversal (tube mount through frame.)
Notch Transmission Crossmember
Traction Bar (A Frame with shackle.)
Shock mounts (shock towers for front.)
New Shocks (longer.)
Ford Shock Towers in front.
Spring perches
Longer Shackles (MAF greasable or custom.)
Longer U-bolts
Brake lines (axle to caliper and frame to axle.)
Custom length tie rod and drag link (included in Hy-Steer kit?)
Hy-Steer Kit (4x4 labs $550, Marlin Crawlers $423, or Allpro kit.) Careful on price, some come with forged steering arms and some are CNC.
Cut and Turn Axle – reduce pinion angle so u-joints don’t bind and keep caster angle for steering correct.
Marlin’s knuckle gussets have shock mounts built in. (not necessary.)
New knuckle studs from Cruiser Dan (Use locktite when installing.)
Marlin Axle seals while for front axle.
Clean / paint leaf springs and axles while uninstalled.
U-bolt flip Kit
Front Driveshaft modification
Modify rear shock mounts (top pins ~6 inches apart, bottom ones should be far enough away from the lef springs so they don’t make contact when under full articulation.) (10.5 inches pin to pin per calfj60.)
Indirect Parts:
Regear: F&R Diffs + rear locker
Tap Rear Differential for locker air line.
Regear TCase if available (while installing McNamara Output Shaft.)
On Board Air Compressor to actuate rear locker
Wheel spacers to fit AE Rims
Other References:
List of parts I used:
Marlin high steer kit
Custom length tie rod (44") and drag link (36 1/2")
Marlin steering stabilizer
DIY backing plate eliminator
Custom brake line (axle to caliper)
Marlin brake line F & R (frame to axle)
Ruffstuff FJ60 spring hangers
Ruffstuff U-Bolts 5/8" dia (front)
4+ U-bolt plates (modified from 4+ flit kit)
4+ perches
Spectrac U-Bolts 5/8" dia (rear)
Ford F-250 Shock towers
Chicago: So my final angles are....
10 deg at the diff
5 deg castor angles
and 0 deg for the perches
You probably know this already but what the heck: When you start rolling your rig be sure to take it easy for the first 500 miles (stay on the easy roads...avoid high stress trails/obstacles) due to your new R&P's. Use dino oil in the diffs right now...for the first 100-ish miles keep the speed under 45-50mph to reduce the heat build up within the diffs due to the new R&P surfaces trying to "polish/mate". I would run the rig for a max of 1-hour then allow a good 2-3 hours for cool down...and repeat for at least the first 100 miles. Then at 500-miles drain both diffs and put fresh diff lube back in. Repeat again at maybe 2,500 miles. I was still getting metal dust on mine after 10K albeit alot less than I pulled at 500 miles and then again at 2K (be sure to use a diff drain plug with a magnet to catch all this metal dust).
Be patient...break it in right!
