Having trouble getting my front hubs off to replace my rotors. There is these plastic sleeves that are in the holes that the hub studs fit in. If I heat it up it they will get destroyed. Help. BJ 73.
So i WACKS it with a BIG Fn hammer
- Thread starter WILD FX
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I usually back the nut off the stud to the very end, and then tap the nut from the side to pop the washers out. When the stud deflects it will free the cones - touch them to see if they're loose, they don't always pop far out, but they'll definitely loosen.
I won't lie, however: I have bent a stud getting too excited with that method. Soo start slowly.
I won't lie, however: I have bent a stud getting too excited with that method. Soo start slowly.
This is the method I use also. You might try spaying some kind of lubricant onto the studs as well.
I've had decent luck tapping a small flat screwdriver into the split in the cone washer..wedges the washer open a bit so it loosens off, and it stays on the end of the screwdriver and slides right off.
course, sometimes they need a good whack with a big f'n hammer too...
course, sometimes they need a good whack with a big f'n hammer too...
- Thread starter
- #7
Great answers guys that helps a lot. I am going to cross drill my rotors to stop them from warping. Thanks again.
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Rotors don't usually warp, they get heat marks in them from not breaking in the pads and rotors properly which creates soft and hard spots in the rotor material, and when the pads run over the rotor (especially when hot) you will feel pedal pulsations. Heat marks look like an outline of the brake pad, and often you can see small pores or holes in the rotor surrounding the pad impression.
If you still have the rusty JDM rotors on there, ditch them.
The best solution is to get premium rotors (Brembo) and premium pads (not the $25 items lots of people use) and then do a little reading about proper break-in procedures for brakes. Do Not expect crappy $25 Chinese rotors and $25 organic brake pads to do much more than get hot and leave you brake-less. As far as pads go, I have a very strong preference for high end full metallic pads.
Cross drilling doesn't really do that much in a relatively slow speed Land Cruiser. If you're going 180 kph and doing hard stops, then cross drilling will help with pad off-gassing.
~John
- Thread starter
- #9
Well I cross drilled my rotors and vent slots ..I have tride to over heat them and they still work and no pulsing ... I am taking my 15x10" wheels cutting and making them wider by 2 inches and re-machine the face to make em purdy again .. I love working in my shop .. now I need to get to workin on my electric chopper lol..
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Wow ya gotta be joking surely?
Rotors can be stopped warping by also not putting your foot on the brake at traffic lights after you have pulled up hard and overheaded them and usign the handbrake else ytou are cooling the rotors differently. I have had no need to drill rotors in a 80, 75, 77 , 77 ir the ISUZU or the HILUX and I have driven them all over the top at some point including last weekend a 30k siedways bash on a gravel road in the green wagon (awesome little truck to toss around in the gravel).
I thought DRILLING rotors actually induces cracking and they had to be cast with the holes in them.
Try using different compound pads if your going to flog your trucks - probably to softer ones with more copper in them or buy a porsche or a ferrari and keep the cruiser for whats its meant for going off road and driving nicely
I use a pin punch and give the collets a tap from the side. Usually find tapping them near the split gets best results.
On the rear axles I use a couple of 8 mm HT bolts through the axle flange and pop it out 3-4mm then back it off and they come out easy.
When I put it back together I always dip them in grease so they dont rust up in there and make it a pain to get them out next time.
On the rear axles I use a couple of 8 mm HT bolts through the axle flange and pop it out 3-4mm then back it off and they come out easy.
When I put it back together I always dip them in grease so they dont rust up in there and make it a pain to get them out next time.
cross drilling brake rotors is a rely bad idea
if you want drilled rotors go and by them
if you want drilled rotors go and by them
