so different axles then? (1 Viewer)

[rusmannx]

1. i want to run 36's or 38's
2. it's a 72 40
3. i want lower gears
4. i don't want to worry about breaking birfs all the time.

D60's are to bulky for my taste.
Ford 9's don't seem to have any major advantages.

i'm just thinking now i should buy some 77 or later
fj40 axles under it.
this will give me disks, fine splined ring gear,
birfs worth of smurfing.

is this right?
how much do i need to spend for a set of axles?
how much can i sell mine for?

 

[hammerhead]

Dude, you're trying too hard. If you just do a Toy mini front disc conversion you eliminate the major weak points. You'll get the discs, beefier steering arms, fine spline hub lockouts, and, best of all, bigger fine spline birfs.

 

[rusmannx]

yeah i know it solves all of those problems.
but i still have course splined ring and pinion.
is there a place where course splined gears can be bought?
i want either 4.56 or 4.88's

 

[hammerhead]

The thing, that is coarse or fine, is the pinion. The only reason it matters is that the flange must match. Just get a flange that matches whatever pinion you use.

 

[rusmannx]

that's what i had planned, until CruisenGA said that he got the flange and still couldn't get everything to work.

what was the problem again GA?

 

[rusmannx]

cruisinGA said:

I bought a R&P from Randy's, they sent me fine spline, I did get an adapter flange, but the pinion gear was a different length and nothing fit right. Hence the 3rd member purchase from David. So I'm not sure that a companion flange is all you need to make a fine spline R&P work in a previously coarse splined rearend.

 

[CruisinGA]

Still haven't figured it out. DD113 and my mechanic have both looked at it, the pinion gear won't fit right in the 3rd, causing odd wear and ridiculous vibration. I did buy a new yoke/flange thinking this was all I needed. I am going to call Randy's soon and see what they say, and then maybe ship the whole installed 3rd to them to see if they can figure it out.

 

[cruiserrg]

I converted an old rig to fine spline pinion gears in the rear. I got the stuff from National Drivetrain and they had a fine spline flange that was drilled for both new and old driveshafts. Everything fit great. I would recommend going fine spline if you are changing gears, its a good investment in strength.

For the front just get mini truck disc conversion as mentioned and then upgrade to longfields. It should take some punishment then.

 

[rusmannx]

wouldn't i have to get fine splined in the front to to lower the gears?

 

[cruiserrg]

[quote author=rusmannx link=board=1;threadid=5039;start=msg39109#msg39109 date=1063062107]
wouldn't i have to get fine splined in the front to to lower the gears?
[/quote]

If changing gears you need to do it in both axles, and I would go with a fine spline pinion in both front and rear. The spider gears in your axle are already fine spline as is the inner axle. It will take all the parts of the mini truck knukle conversion without changing the inner axles. You just need outer knuckles out from a solid axle toyota minitruck including the birfs (unless going to Longfields). It should be a bolt up deal except for some grinding for the inner knuckle ball for the birfs to clear, and changes to the steering.

 

[CruisinGA]

Reuben-
I ordered a new flange drilled for both d-shafts with my fine splined R&P. So theoretically it should have worked, correct? I'm really pretty pissed it didn't. .
This was their value gear line if it makes any difference. The mechanic that set it up has been doing these for at least 20 years, and could probably do it with his hands tied behind his back. ???

 

[cruiserrg]

[quote author=CruisinGA link=board=1;threadid=5039;start=msg39133#msg39133 date=1063065877]
Reuben-
I ordered a new flange drilled for both d-shafts with my fine splined R&P. So theoretically it should have worked, correct? I'm really pretty pissed it didn't. .
This was their value gear line if it makes any difference. The mechanic that set it up has been doing these for at least 20 years, and could probably do it with his hands tied behind his back. ???
[/quote]

From your description above about odd wear and vibration, I wouldn't think the flang would cause this unless it was really out of round. You could see this visually by just jacking up the rear and rotating the d-shaft, or if the 3rd is out spining it. If you trust your mechanic, I would suspect the pinion being mis machined or simular problem.

 

[CruisinGA]

Hmm ok, the third is currently not in the truck. That third should be perfect, all new bearings, seals, gears, and yoke. Time to go bitch at Randy. :

 

[woody]

I run stock coarse spline pinions and always have. I've busted two pinions, both due to spring wrap, and both because I didn't have a wrap bar installed in the rear. Control the wrap, and they are VERY tuff to break.

I don't swap gear sets because I still have about 6 sets of good 4.11's laying around....no point in changing to something that will actually cost me $$ if it breaks!

 

[rusmannx]

you also have grandma for 1st gear.
would a sm420 swap help getting around town with 36's or 38's?
i imagine it's hard to start in that gear, and get around town.

 

[woody]

I've never had a problem starting out in town with the SM465...my only issue is there is a "missing" gear where 2nd is too slow and 3rd is too fast....that's where the 4-speed tranny is nice.

I never use granny in town.

also remember, the rear axle on a 72 and the 77 is identical....only difference is the location of the shock mount. ALL else is the same.

I just noted someone had a pair of minitruck front axles, willing to dice up for a disc conversion, for like $150-165 each. IIRC, Washington state, on the LCML.