Smog pump question

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Mmmmmm, okay, pump seems to be running fine again. Go figure.

I heard a squeak while parking truck last night, thought nothing much. This morning, taking kids to school, the belt starts smoking right at startup. I popped the hood, saw it was the smog pump, got really pissed, tried it again, it was turning, made quick trip to school. Made quick trip back, no problem. Tried it again tonight, no problem.

I'm thinking it might have chipped a vane or something, that got stuck, belt started smoking when I started it up, but when I tried it again it somehow cleared the obstruction and is now okay.

Uh, that's what I truly want to believe. Rubber spoon, rubber spoon, rubber spoon. . . .
 
Pull your outlet hose (yes, I'm sure that's what she said... ) and see if there's any bits-n-pieces in there. When I was monkeying with all of that crap, I actually found a piece of the vane in the hose. Weird.

You may be lucky, but you need a plan B. Leave that big, red MF out somewhere weird overnight where you're at and you're lible to have to pick what's left of it up (after bomb-sniffers disassemble Johnny - no disassemble!) from Homeland Security goons...

And if you've got my stinkin luck, that's pretty much what I'd expect to happen.
 
I bet it is the broken vane thing though - if it were bearings, it wouldn't be random like that.

I wonder if you could hook a shop-vac up to the inlet and outlet hoses and suck the little f'rs out of there? (blocking the opposite one to create suction, of course)

You still need to pull it and shove it up the collective ass of NAPA though, and make them give you a new one.
 
Hey JMan,

Same, thing happend to me ... almost to the incident. My guess ... you have less than 1,000 miles to a fully locked up smog pump.

My recommendation is to purchase the smog pump bypass kit bracket from Specter and have it on hand when the 'puppy' locks up solid. That way you can quickly pull the pump, mount the bracket, tighen the belt and rock on down the road.

Sorry but you've got a smog pump swap job in your very immediate future.

Cheers,
Cahil
 
JMan,

How are you going to tighten that belt ? You need the smog pump pulley assemble to tighten the belt. What I did was gut the pump and get it so it would free spin. Not simple. Other than a smog pump or a smog pump replacement braket kit how to tighten belt ?

Cheers,
Cahil
 
cahilc said:
JMan,

How are you going to tighten that belt ? You need the smog pump pulley assemble to tighten the belt. What I did was gut the pump and get it so it would free spin. Not simple. Other than a smog pump or a smog pump replacement braket kit how to tighten belt ?

Cheers,
Cahil
Click to expand...

No, this is the new and improved, smog-and-air-conditioning-and-power-steering-is-for-pussies method: one belt (an AC belt) on the alt and water pump, using alt as tensioner.

I did it last time, worked great to get me by. I never use the AC. The power steering is overrated for regular driving. :D
 
cake

BigSur said:
I have a spare smog pump for my FJ60 that i needs to be rebuilt. has anyone ever rebuilt one of these? How many banana job is this one? Any recommendations?
Click to expand...

I've rebuilt them. This was a few years ago when the only option from SOR for a replacemnet was $680. It was a piece of cake.

The smog pump is the simplest component on the FJ60 - and thats saying something! All it consists of is the housing, a bearing, and a few fiberglass fins. Opening the housing was the most difficult part of the job.

Open the housing and take a look!
 
Rollin'in'Zona said:
I've rebuilt them. This was a few years ago when the only option from SOR for a replacemnet was $680. It was a piece of cake.

The smog pump is the simplest component on the FJ60 - and thats saying something! All it consists of is the housing, a bearing, and a few fiberglass fins. Opening the housing was the most difficult part of the job.

Open the housing and take a look!
Click to expand...

I've opened the housing on my OEM pump, and it seems to be in pretty good shape inside, except there's some grime. I sprayed some penetrant in there, and was able to get it turning again.

I want to rebuild it, what do I do next? I assume all I have to do is soak the whole thing, clean it up, grease the bearings, and put it back in.I can't figure out how to get the drum out to reach the main bearing--how do I do it?

ALSO, I noticed a bit of oily grime in the air cleaner as well as the hose going to the pump--I assume the oil is what caused the pump to seize? Is that right? If so, how do I correct this?
 
I think when they seize, it's the bearings that go, right? Seems like I read somewhere here that when they do a rebuild, all they do is clean it up and press new bearings into the housing. The fact that you oiled yours up and got it moving is okay, but under high-speed running conditons, I don't know if I'd trust it.

How much oil was on the inside? There's a coating of greasy oily crap on the inside of my hoses too, but it's just fine - can't see where that would really hurt anything. I think when ATF gets into it, it's fries the bearings - pure speculation though.
 
Jman said:
I've opened the housing on my OEM pump, and it seems to be in pretty good shape inside, except there's some grime. I sprayed some penetrant in there, and was able to get it turning again.

I want to rebuild it, what do I do next? I assume all I have to do is soak the whole thing, clean it up, grease the bearings, and put it back in.I can't figure out how to get the drum out to reach the main bearing--how do I do it?

ALSO, I noticed a bit of oily grime in the air cleaner as well as the hose going to the pump--I assume the oil is what caused the pump to seize? Is that right? If so, how do I correct this?
Click to expand...

It's either bearings OR (usually in my case) the fins are hanging up on the housing step up - take a look at it, you'll see what I'm talking about. I just had new bearings pressed in for good measure, but shaving a millimeter or two off the fins was the real trick and ensured lack of future problems!

The kicker is that we do not have smog control up here, so we could have gotten away w/o it completely. But back then, nobody, NOBODY had an idler pully replacement and I did not have the time to fab one. Now Specter has a bypass pully setup. I think it's around $150 though...
 
Jman said:
... one belt (an AC belt) on the alt and water pump, using alt as tensioner ...
Click to expand...

WOW !!!

There should be a tips-n-tricks section on FJ60's and this should be in the top 10.

Thanks Jman !!!

Cahil
 
swank60 said:
... I think when they seize, it's the bearings that go, right? ...
Click to expand...

Aww, you should have seen my smog pump "guts" pile. I tore it off, opened her up, whacked her upside down on the table and everything came out in a big cloud of dust. Fins ??? What fins ??? Bearings ??? What bearings ??? All I got was chunks and shavings of fiberglass and a big pile of metal shavings which were once bearings in a former life. Should have gotten a pic.

Cahil
 
what's the difference between an air pump and a smog pump? Mine went out last month, it got all seized up. My mechanic told me it was going to cost me $1200 for a new one (he was surprised by that too!)....luckily they had a 60 they were parting out with a working air pump and I got that for $250 + labor, no guarantee...he said that those things just seize up all of a sudden....what do yall think?
 
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