smog mechanic screwed up my choke

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DocuDude

Took me 10 years to find this space
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Found a smog guy who for $100 would help me pass smog, and he did. When i started it cold the next day, i hit gas 3 times and pull choke fully out (as i always do)....well the idle was super low (450ish) and i would have to hold down the gas until engone warmed up or else engine would die.

this morning same thing, though later in the day on cold startup, i discovered that if i pull the choke out (but not fully, i think there are like 4 clicks so pull it out like 3 clicks or less) the choke runs properly and my idle is in the 1100 range (as it use to be)

now i cant go back to this mechanic-- and i could just only pull out the choke 3/4 of the way from now on-- but i would like to know what they did and what i need to do to fix it.

on warm start it is fine

thanx

thanks
 
All you can do to the choke is adjust the cable. Sounds like you have the answer already.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
 
Pull off the air cleaner, pull the choke full out. Look into the carb, choke should be fully closed. Ditto on full open. If not, adjust the cable at the carb until you accomplish this, should put you back where you were.
 
sounds to me like he fixed your choke. you shouldnt have to pull your choke out all the way or at least when you do your motor should run like crap until you undo the choke a couple of notches. sounds like before you never got full choke effect out of it and he probably adjusted it so now full out on the choke knob is full choke. i would learn to use it as it is, as you seem to have done.

ive always used a manual choke like this: not at all if the weather is 50f or more; when its less than that and the car has sat for awhile (even overnight) pull the choke completely out, start the motor and immediately let the choke back in until about halfway, the motor should be running slightly high idle at that point. then i get underway and immediately unchoke the motor. now this is in california where it doesnt usually get all that cold so maybe you need to run it more if youre in snow country or something but the point is the choke should only be a crutch to get the motor started and then released as soon as the motor runs without it.

btw you say you cant got back to the mechanic. why not? or was that a typo and you meant to say you *can* go back to the mechanic?

one love
jah bill
 
I undid my choke a couple times to change carbs and all I did was adjust the cable so that when the knob is pulled all the way out, the intake flap is closed on the carb. Seemes to work great and it was very easy to adjust.
 
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According to 1987 owners manual

According to the 1987 owners manual, when starting a cold engine....pump 2 times on gas, then pull the choke fully out...let her run a lil bit, then drive off and turn off choke when you hit 25mph.

i have only owned my first cruiser 6 weeks, so i am still learning.

i know the choke allows a higher concentration of air into the engine.....is there a better explanation than that?

so before the mechanic worked on choke, a full choke should have made my RPM'S drop?

in the owners manual there is no mention of different level of choke, it just says to pull it fully out on cold start

thanks

I am in Los Angeles, so its never too cold
 
>i know the choke allows a higher concentration of air into the
>engine

thats exactly the opposite of what a choke does. it *chokes* the motor by blocking off air flow thereby causing a higher concentration of FUEL into the engine.

i dont really know about the stock choke on a fj because i had my motor replaced with a chevy v8, but in general the choke is infinately variable by pulling the choke cable/button in and out more or less.

and factory user manuals often oversimplify the case.

check under the hood with a friend pulling on the choke and your air cleaner off and you will see what i mean.

anyhow sounds like it all works fine to me so i wouldnt really stress over it.

one love
jah bill
 

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