Small rust spot found. Need opinions (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter TTO5
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I have rust in the same spot, had it repaired, it returned. It's on my to-do list.
Pull the plastic sill guard and I will bet you find more.
Pull the plastic sill guard and I will bet you find more.
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- #3
Breaks my heart. I bought the truck about 5 years ago. It lived its life in Texas until I bought it (I live in NJ). That's the only rust I ever found so I guess I'm still miles ahead of one that lived its whole life in the NJ. I lost my beloved 2000 100 series to rust (had 340k on her and was mechanically mint) rust started popping up everywhere when i made the decision to sell it. Ok. I'll get the sill plate off and have a look
It is more than a spot. All that bubbling paint has rust underneath. Sand it down and apply rust treatment, don't let the cancer grow.
Old Nick
GOLD Star
Not a 200 owner... but just saw your post.
First, as @doru noted above... pull the plastic trim and get after the rust.
Second, sand down the area (I would take it down to bare metal)... there will be more rust than is visible at present. Hopefully, the rust hasn't eaten its way through and is still just surface rust.
Third, apply a good primer and then top coat a matched color.
Fourth, apply fluid film to the interior of your rockers. Keep them coated and the rust on the interior of the panel will be stopped.
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- #8
I'll have to figure out how to access that inside area. Any reason not to use por 15?
Old Nick
GOLD Star
Sure, you can use por15, or KBS. But, those are meant to be painted over surface rust (encapsulates and cuts off the rust surface from oxygen). With rust like that developing, I would want it gone. Not sure if the above products are intended to be applied to bare metal.
Not necessarily starting there, but for sure it extends under the trim. If the rust is inside the frame, that is a possibility, but you will find out only after removing the trim. Besides, removing the trim (which is easy) gives you better access to deal with it and properly fix and paint.
If inside is decent you should apply cavity wax. The manufacturers apply cavity wax in critical areas like inside door at the bottom, or inside frames, etc. That wax is good for many years but not forever as it eventually dries out. Unlike paint the wax remain flexible for many years. It is a similar idea as LiquidFilm but it is using wax not grease, so it is a lot less messy after application. I'm using KBS Coatings Cavity Coater when doing bodywork. The wax comes in a spray with short and long wands (2 feet or more) with a special 360 dgr nozzle at the end. The spraying action is strong. You press the trigger and pull the wand out quickly. That way you can be guaranteed that the cavity is coated on all sides.
But if you have rust inside people had good results with Eastwood Internal Frame Coating Aerosol that has rust converter. I have no experience with it.
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- #11
What would you put on the bare metal after scraping the rust under the trim?
A rust converter goes in first. Unless you go nuts with the grinder and then have a lot of prep work to do, some hard to see rust spots will be left on the metal. To deal with them and for the peace of mind I always apply converter first. After that follow the regular body paint process.
Carefully pry off the plastic trim and spray fluid film or other lanolin product into both layers in your rocker panel/ door sill. Then spray the surface that is rusting and wipe off. Do this for every door, fender, tailgate, etc. frame too. It will stop the rust and prevent future rust.
It works.
It works.
- Thread starter
- #14
How to access the inner part? Through the clip holes?
Old Nick
GOLD Star
You have drain plugs on the inside panel of your rockers, right? The rockers are pinch welded to the doors sill? Buy a "cavity" extension for the fluid film and hit the inside of the rockers. That ought to cover the underside of the section that you're dealing with.
Yes. When you pop the trim piece you will see 2 layers of metal. Spray between both sets.
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- #17
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- #18
How long will the fluid film last? How often do I need to re apply? Would I be better with sprayable rust encapsulator with the 360 nozzle like Eastwood has?
Old Nick
GOLD Star
Either one is fine. The Eastwood is “permanent”; fluid film, once or twice a year… especially before road salting season starts.
Seeing what you've got there. I believe the issue is simply surface paint wear from rubbing of the plastic trim. Then it got chronically wet and rusted from the top.
If it were me (and I'm a little weird about this kind of thing):
1. Tape off the area within a few mm of the rusted areas with blue painters tape.
2. Use 1000 grit sand paper and sand down all the rust bubbles to bare shiny metal as best as possible. You won't be able to get it all, but get as much as you can.
3. Treat the residual rust with a rust converter paint or Evaporust
4. Buy a can of matching touch up spray from automotivetouchup.com. Use a primer first and then coat the area with the spray touchup, keeping the painted area as small as possible. In this area, it won't be very noticeable at all, but best to minimize any paint work.
5. Either reattach the trim and call it good or put down a strip of clear paint protection film between the trim and paint. It isn't clear to me why it rubbed off so much paint in the first place. My guess is the prior owner was a big ol feller who stood on that area when getting in and out.
6. Now you can treat the whole chassis with Surface Shield if you think rust is a concern for places other than just under this trim, but that's a whole other topic.
If it were me (and I'm a little weird about this kind of thing):
1. Tape off the area within a few mm of the rusted areas with blue painters tape.
2. Use 1000 grit sand paper and sand down all the rust bubbles to bare shiny metal as best as possible. You won't be able to get it all, but get as much as you can.
3. Treat the residual rust with a rust converter paint or Evaporust
4. Buy a can of matching touch up spray from automotivetouchup.com. Use a primer first and then coat the area with the spray touchup, keeping the painted area as small as possible. In this area, it won't be very noticeable at all, but best to minimize any paint work.
5. Either reattach the trim and call it good or put down a strip of clear paint protection film between the trim and paint. It isn't clear to me why it rubbed off so much paint in the first place. My guess is the prior owner was a big ol feller who stood on that area when getting in and out.
6. Now you can treat the whole chassis with Surface Shield if you think rust is a concern for places other than just under this trim, but that's a whole other topic.
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