Same here
Slee Group 31 Battery Tray Installed!!
- Thread starter 1loudLX
- Start date
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Same here
- Thread starter
- #42
Pics?
Can ya shoot another pic with the covers off?
Looks like you used some kind of extension on the + side?
Where did you get the covers?
lesgarten said:
The terminal covers are from VTE. I have a fuse able link extension on the positive side that I installed a long while back. There are more images on my blog with detail of the link.
Which VTE series?
My Install also included these additional items.
VTE Battery Terminal Covers (466N9V02 Red / 466N9V14 Black)
Mil Spec Terminals (Napa Auto)
Custom Fuseable Link Extension (copper bar)
VTE Battery Terminal Covers (466N9V02 Red / 466N9V14 Black)
Mil Spec Terminals (Napa Auto)
Custom Fuseable Link Extension (copper bar)
Thanx!
Christo and Ben are always building stuff after I hang out there and talk to them....
I like this product, nice work guys, nice write up Blair!
I like this product, nice work guys, nice write up Blair!
My thanks to Christo, as well as RobRed (for the insulator source). Did my install last week- cruiser roars to life now.
Another new Slee battery tray installed
Installed my new tray from Slee this morning in my wife's '04 100. Very, very nicely made product. Couple of suggestions for the instructions for inept Saturday morning wrench-turners.
-Start lifting weights 3 weeks in advance of install. The Sears battery is 3X heavier than your mother-in-law and you will lose a wing nut lifting into engine bay.
-Check for corrosion under the old tray - my Interstate battery overflowed and started a few rust spots under the old tray and down the inside of the fender well. Used wire wheel and some Rustoleum rust destroyer, primed and painted.
-Note the washer reservoir has 3 bolts (one hidden from sight unless you get under the truck AND a little plastic doo-hickey on the reservoir bottle that clips into the cover. If you remove the first two that are obvious in Slee's instructions and you curiously yank on the cover you will hear a sickening snapping sound (ask me how I know) of the third not so obvious bolt. And pry\release the little white plastic doo-hickey off carefully. Locations all shown here:
-The positive battery terminal stud adapter supplied by Slee is top quality - much better than lead crap from AutoZone. However, you have to really crank the adapter down with a wrench to contact the metal ring at the bottom of the threaded stud. I'm no electrician but seems like you should do this 'cause more metal contact means more juice. Lots of debate on this one in the various threads but Slee's definitive answer is that the threaded post is fine to attach to.
- At least on our '04, you only have to drill out the one hole closest to grill to 3/8's. Suggest a little primer\paint in the newly drilled hole for you rust-averse guys. For fun, paint all three.
-Last, unless you have gorilla-length arms, you may have to have someone hold the allen wrench in the top of the battery tray bolts while you tighten the nuts inside the wheel well. May not be necessary but after 4 pitchers of margaritas last night my judgement may be somewhat impaired.
Nice product, highly recommended, confident that the battery is solidly in place and not going anywhere . Thanks Slee for a good mod.
Now, on to my new Slee brake rotor install.
Installed my new tray from Slee this morning in my wife's '04 100. Very, very nicely made product. Couple of suggestions for the instructions for inept Saturday morning wrench-turners.
-Start lifting weights 3 weeks in advance of install. The Sears battery is 3X heavier than your mother-in-law and you will lose a wing nut lifting into engine bay.
-Check for corrosion under the old tray - my Interstate battery overflowed and started a few rust spots under the old tray and down the inside of the fender well. Used wire wheel and some Rustoleum rust destroyer, primed and painted.
-Note the washer reservoir has 3 bolts (one hidden from sight unless you get under the truck AND a little plastic doo-hickey on the reservoir bottle that clips into the cover. If you remove the first two that are obvious in Slee's instructions and you curiously yank on the cover you will hear a sickening snapping sound (ask me how I know) of the third not so obvious bolt. And pry\release the little white plastic doo-hickey off carefully. Locations all shown here:
-The positive battery terminal stud adapter supplied by Slee is top quality - much better than lead crap from AutoZone. However, you have to really crank the adapter down with a wrench to contact the metal ring at the bottom of the threaded stud. I'm no electrician but seems like you should do this 'cause more metal contact means more juice. Lots of debate on this one in the various threads but Slee's definitive answer is that the threaded post is fine to attach to.
- At least on our '04, you only have to drill out the one hole closest to grill to 3/8's. Suggest a little primer\paint in the newly drilled hole for you rust-averse guys. For fun, paint all three.
-Last, unless you have gorilla-length arms, you may have to have someone hold the allen wrench in the top of the battery tray bolts while you tighten the nuts inside the wheel well. May not be necessary but after 4 pitchers of margaritas last night my judgement may be somewhat impaired.
Nice product, highly recommended, confident that the battery is solidly in place and not going anywhere . Thanks Slee for a good mod.
Now, on to my new Slee brake rotor install.
Just installed this tray on my LX, a couple of thoughts....
I didn't want to drill any more holes in my truck, so I used only two of the bolts for the holes that already were big enough. The old tray wasn't bolted down, so I believe two bolts to secure the tray is adequate.
There are three bolts to remove the washer reservoir, and you can just tilt out of the way without removing any harnesses in order to secure the battery tray.
Unless you have a helper, you will have to get creative to secure the tray solo. I used a 90° Allen wrench on the top, crammed some other tools near it and set the battery on top of the Allen wrench and was able to secure it from the bottom by myself.
Not a hard install, took me about 45 minutes in the dark (most of the time figuring out how to tighten both ends by myself).
I didn't want to drill any more holes in my truck, so I used only two of the bolts for the holes that already were big enough. The old tray wasn't bolted down, so I believe two bolts to secure the tray is adequate.
There are three bolts to remove the washer reservoir, and you can just tilt out of the way without removing any harnesses in order to secure the battery tray.
Unless you have a helper, you will have to get creative to secure the tray solo. I used a 90° Allen wrench on the top, crammed some other tools near it and set the battery on top of the Allen wrench and was able to secure it from the bottom by myself.
Not a hard install, took me about 45 minutes in the dark (most of the time figuring out how to tighten both ends by myself).
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'Nuther happy customer.
It is definitely a heavy battery. No doubt about it.
Quick install. Well-executed kit.
Thanks Christo.
It is definitely a heavy battery. No doubt about it.
Quick install. Well-executed kit.
Thanks Christo.
Sorry to bring a thread back to life, but any tips for removing the wheel well trimming and lower bumper? Having trouble gaining access to the underside for the nuts.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Well the answer was to just approach it with more force telling myself it will all be removed for a front bumper soon anyways.