Slee Diff Drop Bracket and OME T-Bars

[macneill]

Not necessarily a new post, but was wondering who's done both?

Not as much as I originally thought, so the time has come to get 'er done.

 

[Landpimp]

Yes, I did the Slee T-bars, then did the Slee diff drop(as it was not out untill after the bars)

very happy, my poo flinging CV boots stoped flinging poo

 

[Greg B]

I just did both at the same time because I didn't want my boots flinging poo either. Very happy with the results.

I'm probably going to add some trim packers to the rear though. I thought I would get a little more height out of the 866's than I actually did. I suspect that I will lose a little more height after the suspension settles in and when loaded down with gear.

 

[Snook]

I installed Slee torsion bar but leave it at original height. Few months later, I installed Slee drop diff then jacked up 2.5 inches higher.

 

[rzpapp]

I am gonna get the "package" Slee dif drop, OME t-bars, shocks and springs at once. With just the OME springs (without any additional trim/spacers) what is the lift? And what is the index on the OME t-bars to match the rear lift... are the t-bars matched to springs?

 

[Greg B]

With just the OME springs (without any additional trim/spacers) what is the lift? And what is the index on the OME t-bars to match the rear lift... are the t-bars matched to springs?

I got about 2.5" lift at the rear springs (866's). The index is not a value, it is how you line up the t-bars into the torque and anchor arms when installing.

When I installed mine, I didn't mark or measure the anchor arm bolt. I just looked at the position of the anchor arm in it's mount at stock placement and then made sure that it was hanging down lower than that when I indexed the new t-bars. It worked great and I got it on the first try.

As far as the t-bars being matched to the springs, there is only one rate for the t-bars no matter which rear spring you go with.

 

[rzpapp]

Thanks... I thought there was some sort of zero mark somwhere... guess not... its kinda quess work.

Question on 2.5"... why does ARB call it a 1.5in lift in there documents... and Slee calls it a 2.0"... which is it?

 

[Greg B]

It really depends on which rear spring you go with. If you go with a heavy rear spring, it takes more weight to compress the spring. The 866 is designed to carry heavy loads (aftermarket rear bumpers, heavily loaded cargo areas, etc.). At this point, I am not carrying these heavy loads so the spring makes the 100 sit a little higher. I went ahead and bought the heavy spring (866) instead of the medium (865) because I plan on adding more weight back there in the future. So, depending on the spring you go with and how much weight you are carrying, the ride height varies.

 

[rzpapp]

Think I'll stick to the 865 I am only running the BFG 286/65R18's (barely 33") so I won't really need the hieght for the wheels... Thanks

 

[LonghornCruiser]

Yes, I did the Slee T-bars, then did the Slee diff drop(as it was not out untill after the bars)

very happy, my poo flinging CV boots stoped flinging poo

Have you lifted the rear or is it still stock? What about the front shocks? Also, what size tires are you running on this setup.

I have been thinking about what I can do to get a little bit bigger tire on when mine need to be replaced. I was wondering if I could just add the OME T-bars and a diff drop or do I need new front shocks too. And since, I am probably not going to offroad for a while, can I get away with leaving the rear stock without it looking uneven. Lastly, what is the biggest tire I can fit with the t-bar lift. I know that stock, you can fit 285/75/16 or 305/70/16. Can you go bigger with this lift or is it just for looks? Sorry for my ignorance, but I gotta learn sometime.

 

[ryanjl]

Searching around will yield you more info, but it's basically like this.

OME T-Bar has a higher spring rate, so, even if you install them in the EXACT same position as the OEM (original) ones, you'll get a little lift as the vehicle weight will push the suspension down less.

Most people crank the T-bars to achieve around a 2 - 2.5" lift.

Either way, you should replace the rear springs with OME ones at the same time in order to keep the vehicle level. Otherwise, you'll be driving a vehicle with its nose in the air and handling quite a bit different than stock.

You should also replace the shocks at the same time. If you don't, you will have extremely limited wheel travel that could rear its head on things as simple as speed bumps or potholes.

The diff drop bracket allows you to crank the front T-bars safely a little more than with the diff in the stock location. With that installed, many have gone to 315 sized tires (35").

If money is an issue, and tires need to come first, I'd just go with the 285's and do the suspension correctly when you've saved enough.

 

[Landpimp]

even with OME shocks this will/can happen, we cranked up the front, hit a speed bump and the front tires came off the ground.....not good

bit different than stock.

You should also replace the shocks at the same time. If you don't, you will have extremely limited wheel travel that could rear its head on things as simple as speed bumps or potholes.
.

 

[Augie]

OME front shock does not give additional travel. They are a bit longer but have the same travel.
Nobody recommended extended travel front shock without custom control arm and ball Joint. Stock ball joint would bottom out and snap off if you extend the shock. The front shock also act as travel limiting device on IFS 100. If you snap your front shock it would cause the front wheel to fall off because it would also snap the ball join most of the time.

Diff drop are no brainer though. Do it at the same time if possible. I am running stock torsion bar and its good with KYB shock. The OME I tried before are way too soft in compression. They have good rebound but not enough compression which indicate that they need stiffer spring to complement that.

Here is the data I collect when I was shopping for shocks.

Brand/ Compressed / Extended / Travel
P/N / in / mm / in / mm / in / mm
Bilstein
BE5-2739 / 10.39 / 263.9 / 16.08 / 408.4 / 5.69 / 144.5
BE5-2740 / 13.67 / 347.2 / 21.71 / 551.4 / 8.04 / 204.2


KONI
8240-1183 SPX / 11.73 / 298 / 17.44 / 443 / 5.71 / 145
8240-1184 SPX / 14.48 / 368 / 23.03 / 585 / 8.54 / 217


KYB
345022 / 11 / 279.4 / 16.9 / 429.26 / 5.9 / 149.86
345023 / 14.1 / 358.14 / 22.9 / 581.66 / 8.8 / 223.52


OME
N100/133 / 11.42 / 290 / 17.32 / 440 / 5.90 / 150
N101/N101C / 14.17 / 360 / 24.02 / 610 / 9.84 / 250

 

[spressomon]

Did both...the diff drop was a (maybe 1.5 banana) install with floor jack and jack stands. The T-bars would have been relatively easy if I didn't have an East Coast rig...took it to my mechanic who had to apply heat/PB 5-different cycles before they could get the damn things out of their 'sockets'.