Slee AHC Override

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Aug 31, 2015
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Nomad's Land
Bought this piece of kit thinkin' I'd possibly need it when going to 305/65/18 KO2s, but it looks like I'll be ok at stock AHC "N" height.

Now, I would still like to install the switch as returning isn't a viable option and it could come in handy on those longer offroad forays of mixed speeds. Install seems rather straight-forward, but I am a bit stumped by this line in the PDF instructions:

"DO NOT TAKE 12V+ FROM THE SUSPENSION CONTROL MODULE. LOCATE A SUITABLE SOURCE FOR AN IGNITION SWITCHED 12V+ SOURCE."

Link to Slee AHC Controller installation quide: http://www.sleeoffroad.com/installation/ahc_controller_v1.1.pdf

Thought the switch would just be wired in-line and hijacking power between factory wiring and the Suspension Control Module. I understand per the instructions cited to NOT use that as a power source, but no suggested alternative. What does that leave? What is a "suitable source for an ignition switched 12V+ source" on an '04 LX? My intent is to install the switch in the blank to the left of the power mirrors or maybe the Night Vision blank to the right if wire length is inadequate to reach the left side (I think I read somewhere it was).

I did search and most of what I turned up were statements from those who have installed the Slee AHC Override successfully, but no details on how they did it. Inquiries from other mudders were made, however, unanswered. Hoping to have this answered once and for all, concisely and documented here for future reference. Maybe @sleeoffroad can chime in?
 
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I've run into the same issue through the search tool. I had the trim plate off today but would prefer to have a game plan on the 12v prior to cutting wire. Any help is greatly appreciated!
 
The concern obviously is the added current draw on the suspension control module circuit., hence the recommendation to tap in somewhere else.

So where?

If you use any other ignition controlled circuit, and tap in with a relay, you'll be super good. No worries. Use a relay.
 
The concern obviously is the added current draw on the suspension control module circuit., hence the recommendation to tap in somewhere else.

So where?

If you use any other ignition controlled circuit, and tap in with a relay, you'll be super good. No worries. Use a relay.

Pardon my ignorance, but what would be an example of such an ideal ignition controlled circuit in the aforementioned vicinity and is the "relay" anything more than a splice into existing wire? Any additional parts required to perform this operation?
 
Any circuit that can only work when the engine is running.
Typical examples would be the cabin fan, AC, etc.

A relay is a common trigger device that can be found at any auto parts store. Only a few milliamps are required to activate the relay to flip it's contacts. The contacts on the other hand can handle 10 amps or more.
 
Any circuit that can only work when the engine is running.
Typical examples would be the cabin fan, AC, etc.

A relay is a common trigger device that can be found at any auto parts store. Only a few milliamps are required to activate the relay to flip it's contacts. The contacts on the other hand can handle 10 amps or more.

Thank you for taking the time to help suss this out. I would wager any of the switches in the lower left of the dash would be ignition controlled? Maybe there's dummy 12V+ for the features that aren't installed in my rig, like the Night Vision? Also, is a relay necessary? Slee doesn't mention it in their documentation.
 
Install of Slee AHC over ride:

I wanted the ability to control AHC, so I picked up an over ride module when I was at Slee. The install is pretty easy, although you have to dig pretty deep into the dash to access the suspension control module. If you kicked the firewall with your right foot while sitting in the driver seat, that would get you pretty close to where the plug is.

All lower trim must be removed, including the heating/AC ducting. Once you have access, clip a couple wires and wire everything up. I had to lengthen the over ride modules stock wiring a little to get it to reach the switch blank I wanted to use. Once that's done, I wired power and ground up to the cigarette lighter socket (switched power). Those wires also needed to be lengthened.

To modify the switch blank, I removed a bunch of material to give be a smooth(ish) surface. I then use a "C" drill (.2420) and a #11 drill (.1910) to make the two necessary holes. I was originally going to epoxy the switch into the switch blank, but by using the perfect sized drill bits I got a snug fit with no movement.
View attachment 1198714
I cleaned up the holes with some fit grit sandpaper after this photo was taken.
View attachment 1198716
All mounted up. Looks pretty good. I'd like to find a clean way to label it and make it look even more factory. From removing all the material at the back of the switch blank, it doesn't fit into the dash very tight anymore. It should be fine, but if it's an issue I'll have to figure out a way to secure it better.
View attachment 1198717

Everything works as advertised. I'm a fan the additional control.

@TheWhiskeyWorks, how deficient was the supplied wiring to reach the location you mounted? Would it have reached the Night Vision blank without any extension? If so short, I think Slee should have added another foot or so of wiring. What type/gauge of wire did you use for the extension?

Also, what alternatives to the cig lighter do we have for switched power? I'm not opposed to wiring into it, but figured there had to be something closer to the mounting location. Wing windows or mirrors maybe?
 
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@TheWhiskeyWorks, how deficient was the supplied wiring to reach the location you mounted? Would it have reached the Night Vision blank without any extension? If so short, I think Slee should have added another foot or so of wiring. What type/gauge of wire did you use for the extension?

Also, what alternatives to the cig lighter do we have for switched power? I'm not opposed to wiring into it, but figured there had to be something closer to the mounting location. Wing windows or mirrors maybe?

You should verify by using a multimeter, but the folding function of the mirrors is powered by ignition switched 12v.

Hope this helps.
 
You should verify by using a multimeter, but the folding function of the mirrors is powered by ignition switched 12v.

Hope this helps.

At the risk of sounding like a smartass, what's the point of the multimeter here? To verify a charge only under ignition or to verify the voltage of the charge under ignition? I can confirm the button only works under ignition.
 
It serves two functions.

The first is to confirm its switched, only works with ignition on. I haven't looked at wiring diagrams and I'm a novice with the 100 series so I wasn't sure if all years had switched power to the folding function.

The second is to confirm that you're tapping the 12v and not the ground coming from the switch.

I guess I just always use a multimeter when messing with the electrical system at all because that's what I was taught. So I usually recommend others do the same.
 
The second is to confirm that you're tapping the 12v and not the ground coming from the switch.

I guess I just always use a multimeter when messing with the electrical system at all because that's what I was taught. So I usually recommend others do the same.

I have copies of the EWD and believe the wires are color-coded so that I can easily identify power vs ground. I don't think there's a multimeter around here, but it may be a good item to have in the onboard toolbox?

The closest and easiest switched power would be the accessory plug on the center console.

You're like my guardian angel, @hoser :D

I use a Monoprice 2A USB power port in the 12v accessory plug. The cigarette lighter, however, is mainly unused; I don't smoke. Given this, I may just do as Whiskey did since it's even closer. As it seems I'll need to extend wiring one way or the other, will any ol' wire do or... ?
 
It would be awesome to have a "how to" put together with pics for this. Just sayin...

I'd like to install this but of all the things I've done to my truck, this one kinda intimidates me (ie modifying an electrical plug - don't want to make a mistake and be out of a vehicle for a few days/weeks).
 
This part is sold as a DIY part. We have taken note on the wire length and will increase it on the next batch. However whenever we provide DIY wiring parts, we expect a certain level of proficiency with vehicle wiring. The problem with doing a complete blow by blow instruction is that the part can be used in 1999-2007 LX470's and also in 2006-2007 Land Cruisers, which means we have to physically verify each install to make sure it is 100% correct when people follow instructions without understanding what they are tapping into or where they get power and ground sources from. One of the basics with any vehicle wiring is to be able to use a mutli meter and identify sources of either constant 12v or ignition switched power.

If you don't have the skill, then it is a good one to acquire. Also if you don't have a EWD for the vehicle, then that is good to get as well.

We have had a lot of cases with other products, even this one where we identify plugs, wires and wire colors and people still do it wrong.
 
Thank you, Christo, for chiming in!

UPDATE: When disassembling the lower dash under the steering column to install the LED flasher for SBL and such, I found there to be capped off OEM leads dangling near the switch blanks for features not installed on my model (TPMS, Night View, etc). I'm going to check the EWD, but I'd almost bank on these being more than sufficient to wire the AHC override :hmm:
 
@TheWhiskeyWorks, how deficient was the supplied wiring to reach the location you mounted? Would it have reached the Night Vision blank without any extension? If so short, I think Slee should have added another foot or so of wiring. What type/gauge of wire did you use for the extension?

Also, what alternatives to the cig lighter do we have for switched power? I'm not opposed to wiring into it, but figured there had to be something closer to the mounting location. Wing windows or mirrors maybe?

Yes, there was enough to reach the night vision blank. I found the wires maybe 6 inches shorter than I needed, though an extra foot would honestly be nice for routing purposes. I think wiring into the cig lighter was an easy enough spot to reach and it's already in the general direction of where you are wiring everything else.
 
I added a post to my install, search "Slee AHC override install". Feel free to ask questions. I hope it helps someone.
 
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