Skid Plate Decision

[olderlanding]

Hey dudes,

I'm stuck in between ordering a full set of budbuilt skids and slee skids for my 200. I was advised against ordering buds skids due to the amount of torque screws that are used in installation and how the skids can be difficult to remove if those torque screws are gashed on rocks.

That being said, I have physically toured buds shop in North Carolina and was blown away by the quality of his products.

I don't know much about slee other than they're a top tier brand. I like that they use more traditional hardware that aren't at risk of getting mangled by rocks.

Need some general guidance on what to do. I typically do light rock crawling (going to Moab this summer) but mainly forest roads and whatever else I can find. I do not wheel my s*** like cruiser patch that's for sure.

Any input would be appreciated.

 

[bloc]

I didn't have budbuilt but did have the slee setup for quite a while. Overall a very high quality product, but there were a couple things I didn't like about it.

1. The slee skid ties into the front tow hook mounting points. Which would be fine, but this spaces the tow hooks down.. also fine.. but now the original bolts aren't long enough. Their recommendation is to remove the thick steel tie-down hook which clamps the tow hook to the frame.. but when you look at this design that tie down is necessary to maintain the full strength of the tow hook as well. I ended up chopping the little wings off the main skid plate that go under the tow hook.

2. I'm a little fuzzy on the specifics but there are a few bolts that attach the rear transfer skid to the transmission skid.. I never could get two of these to start without risking cross threading them. It was like a clearance issue.. or maybe thick powder coat or something.. and it was still plenty strong with them out, but I do remember this bothering me.

Whatever the issue with BB's "torque screws".. the vast majority of people that run those skids love them.

I'd also throw out that E&E's skid system is really, really nice too. That's what I run now. A bit fussy to get installed and aligned correctly, and being aluminum based they definitely aren't as strong as BB or even Slee, but they are much lighter as a tradeoff. For those of us not bashing the skids on rocks routinely they are a good option.

 

[TLC2013]

I am very happy with my Budbuilt skids. Have had them for 5 years now with some good off-roading and rock gardens. They have done their job and held up well. Those torque screws connect the front skid to the engine skid and could be seen as being susceptible to damage. Mine have held up well even being dragged over rocks. Some wear but they are fine to remove for service.
I have aluminum for the front skid and stainless steel for everything else. My logic was that I would not be bashing the front skid and could save some weight with it being aluminum. With that said that front aluminum skid has taken the most damage, dents and gouges from rocks and boulders. While the rest has minimal surface scratches.
The big selling point for me is their transfer case skid plate. It is phenomenal and provides protection that I don’t think anyone else comes close to offering.
Every time I service my 200, I curse at the weight of the stainless steel skids, especially the transmission plate but it does buy you peace of mind when on the trails.

 

[dudemancool1904]

I wouldn’t hesitate for a second to run BB skids.

But if exposed hardware irks you consider E&E Off road aluminum skid plates. I imagine @turbo8 looks something like Phil Hartman’s old SNL character the Anal Retentive Chef because these things are over engineered aluminum works of art. Really happy with my purchase.

 

[ravencr]

I've got a brand new set of Bud Built Stainless to install on mine...looking forward to it, but have no experience running them. So, no help at all lol.

Chris

 

[linuxgod]

I have the Slee skids now. They seem solid, and to me seem to have a little better venting in their design than Bud. The were a bit lighter than Bud’s skids IIRC and the website says there made of hardened steel. I did have to trim the front “wings” that stick up between the sway bar and the tow hooks because my 1.5” KDSS relo was pressing on them, and can confirm it takes some time and effort to cut

FWIW I’m with @bloc, though I’d already removed that tow hook tie down. I don’t love that because I know if anyone aside from me ever has to drop the skid they’re not going to reassemble it right. OTOH it prevents the casual oil change shop from messing with your skids and encourages them to use the oil filter door.

 

[tbisaacs]

Big fan of @turbo8 over here.

 

[Supra Turbo]

Another vote for E&E Offroad (@turbo8 ) aluminum skid plate system. I do not know how they would hold up in Moab conditions, but very happy with mine. Very beefy, everything is well secured and thought through in their design.

 

[gasman4u]

I'd run BB skids again regardless of what substrate you use. I've got the full coverage underneath with aluminum and would do it again tomorrow. If you're NOT worried about weight or are going to go belly surfing on rocks, get their steel option. I've even got their lower shock guards on my rig in stainless.

By "torque screws" you mean hex-head bolts, yes they use these for most of the plates on the lowest mounting points. My guess is to be as low of profile as possible while maintaining structural strength. I've always put some "never-seize" on my bolts when reinstalling and they are showing no signs of any sort of galvanic corrosion in the past 4.5 years of use.

Full disclosure: I receive nothing from Budbuilt, but am a big proponent of his stuff.

 

[ravencr]

I haven't looked at the install on mine yet, but someone would always run stuff like these to help protect bolt heads: 304 Stainless Steel Offroad M10/M12 Bolt Skids (5 Pack) - https://www.srqfabrications.com/products/304-stainless-steel-offroad-m10-m12-bolt-skids-5-pack?variant=49283674341698&glid=Cj0KCQjw4a3OBhCHARIsAChaqJPFCMzgJzolWcyKkDfig6hFSRMpQPK0E291vt-NXjjCGT6AXU7PuqoaAmMAEALw_wcB&wickedsource=google&wickedid=Cj0KCQjw4a3OBhCHARIsAChaqJPFCMzgJzolWcyKkDfig6hFSRMpQPK0E291vt-NXjjCGT6AXU7PuqoaAmMAEALw_wcB&wickedid=692998669142&wcid=21083305172&wv=4&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=21083305172&utm_content=160437797995_692998669142&utm_term=&matchtype=&device=c&cmp_id=21083305172&adg_id=160437797995&kwd=&wickedsource=google&wickedid=Cj0KCQjw4a3OBhCHARIsAChaqJPFCMzgJzolWcyKkDfig6hFSRMpQPK0E291vt-NXjjCGT6AXU7PuqoaAmMAEALw_wcB&wickedid=692998669142&wcid=21083305172&wv=4&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21083305172&gbraid=0AAAAAC_TwwuLY0dwji-RjrbP5IsfYMlH8&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4a3OBhCHARIsAChaqJPFCMzgJzolWcyKkDfig6hFSRMpQPK0E291vt-NXjjCGT6AXU7PuqoaAmMAEALw_wcB

Chris

 

[olderlanding]

I haven't looked at the install on mine yet, but someone would always run stuff like these to help protect bolt heads: 304 Stainless Steel Offroad M10/M12 Bolt Skids (5 Pack) - https://www.srqfabrications.com/products/304-stainless-steel-offroad-m10-m12-bolt-skids-5-pack?variant=49283674341698&glid=Cj0KCQjw4a3OBhCHARIsAChaqJPFCMzgJzolWcyKkDfig6hFSRMpQPK0E291vt-NXjjCGT6AXU7PuqoaAmMAEALw_wcB&wickedsource=google&wickedid=Cj0KCQjw4a3OBhCHARIsAChaqJPFCMzgJzolWcyKkDfig6hFSRMpQPK0E291vt-NXjjCGT6AXU7PuqoaAmMAEALw_wcB&wickedid=692998669142&wcid=21083305172&wv=4&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=21083305172&utm_content=160437797995_692998669142&utm_term=&matchtype=&device=c&cmp_id=21083305172&adg_id=160437797995&kwd=&wickedsource=google&wickedid=Cj0KCQjw4a3OBhCHARIsAChaqJPFCMzgJzolWcyKkDfig6hFSRMpQPK0E291vt-NXjjCGT6AXU7PuqoaAmMAEALw_wcB&wickedid=692998669142&wcid=21083305172&wv=4&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21083305172&gbraid=0AAAAAC_TwwuLY0dwji-RjrbP5IsfYMlH8&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4a3OBhCHARIsAChaqJPFCMzgJzolWcyKkDfig6hFSRMpQPK0E291vt-NXjjCGT6AXU7PuqoaAmMAEALw_wcB

Chris

These are cool, never seen something like this

 

[TeCKis300]

If I can offer a counterpoint.

Coincidentally, I just spent a few hours with my friends ARB skids and a 20-ton press, straightening things out enough to have a second life.

Skids are not a magic elixir for off-roading. If you truly are tackling technical trails and rock gardens hard enough to contact, effort might be better spent on more clearance. That is more tire lift and suspension lift.

Contact sports suck as it'll eventually beat down the skids enough that they'll be contacting and clanking mechanicals underneath. Plus the PITA of maintenance. Or the compromises of trapping more heat underneath and carrying extra weight around.

Skids themselves often lower usable clearance as lower hanging armor and weight that pulls down ride height.

Even gaining mild 1-2" lift can make a huge difference to grinding versus outright clearing obstacles.

I have 2 buddies that run the same trails. A rig on 33s has beat down his skids enough that he needed a new set. Whereas the buddy on 34s has a relatively clean underbody that rarely contacts.

Long winded way to say there are many trades for skids and may not be required or desired depending on how you use your vehicle.

 

[TheIcemanCometh]

@TeCKis300 Your post reminded me of an encounter with the Tribal Police after we drove far up a road/trail with a passenger vehicle. He came up figuring we were stuck. We were not just stopped in good location to camp. His comment was seeing the vehicle from afar he said "we were either rich or stupid to drive as far as we did" I looked at am him said neither I knew how to drive. Now I will admit on the way out there was an unexpected clunk - fortunately no damage.

 

[Bunga]

TeCK is right about overall clearance being a critical goal- I would say regardless of skids.

I have the bud stainless and I have never been happier with any automotive purchase. Super-strong, well-designed, and well-built. It forms a complete gapless, well-supported barrier for rock snags, off camber deep rut sliding, hwy construction debris, dead critters...

The E&E looks like a great overlanding kit, I'm more concerned about rockfields and bedrock outcrops. My rig is just over 7,000 pounds and my concern was if I get snagged up on something at any real speed it would rip out the transfer case or transmission. With bud everything just slides on by, and with the stainless it doesn't gall at all, just stripes.

 

[bicycleagent003]

On the 80 Series, the transfer case is really the weak point in terms of getting high centered and taking damage. Is it the same with the 200 Series? I see these full belly pans and it seems perhaps unnecessary for most rigs and trails. I realize we all off road differently.

 

[dudemancool1904]

On the 80 Series, the transfer case is really the weak point in terms of getting high centered and taking damage. Is it the same with the 200 Series? I see these full belly pans and it seems perhaps unnecessary for most rigs and trails. I realize we all off road differently.

The tcase doesnt hang super low, but it’s cast aluminum and one good hit with a rock will crack it easily. The stock protection cage leaves a lot to be desired.