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That's even better than the split loom I suggested, should work fine and slide on any contact point.
Size for hose to protect King remote lines
- Thread starter CharlieS
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Charlie this hose has braided steel inside it.. I really do think it's a matter of wearing away some outside rubber that isn't really consequential in terms of function, then the wear will stop once you hit the good stuff. Granted you have a lot more corrosion to deal with than I do. Not saying you shouldn't protect it.. just that the wear that you and even I have isn't a big deal in the long run, especially considering our pressure is so far under what the hose is rated for.
I'm also confident simply pointing the hose straight down next to the frame rail instead of at an angle pointed at the tire will solve the rubbing issues.. meaning a single additional 90 would be needed, no need to get different hoses. But then I can't actually do this now to prove my theory. I will say pictures of the same kings plus the comp adjusters that have the lines pointed straight down do a much better job of keeping the hose away from the tire.
I'm also confident simply pointing the hose straight down next to the frame rail instead of at an angle pointed at the tire will solve the rubbing issues.. meaning a single additional 90 would be needed, no need to get different hoses. But then I can't actually do this now to prove my theory. I will say pictures of the same kings plus the comp adjusters that have the lines pointed straight down do a much better job of keeping the hose away from the tire.
Had more time to turn the wheels for better pictures and put some big zip ties on as protection.
You can see I’ve got the hose touching the frame rail and almost touching the spring. I don’t believe it really can get much shorter and keep good bends..
My concern with the spiral stuff is that the tire may grip it and wind it up the hose past the area it needs to protect. Possibly. I’m pretty happy with the zip ties.. will monitor wear on them, and possible corrosion on the steel cords now that it may not be getting scrubbed off by the tire.
You can see I’ve got the hose touching the frame rail and almost touching the spring. I don’t believe it really can get much shorter and keep good bends..
My concern with the spiral stuff is that the tire may grip it and wind it up the hose past the area it needs to protect. Possibly. I’m pretty happy with the zip ties.. will monitor wear on them, and possible corrosion on the steel cords now that it may not be getting scrubbed off by the tire.
RET2
SILVER Star
I have a novel idea, send pics to Kings and see what they suggest?
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Asked my older son and says that occurs on the tundra too. He suggests to loosen the hose (lose the nitrogen of course) and re-clock the hose to better position it away from the tyre and then re-gas. That resolved the issue on his mate's tundra.
cheers,
george.
cheers,
george.
One detail to correct.. the hose carries oil, not nitrogen. The gas is trapped behind the moving piston inside the reservoir. So if you loosen the line too much without bleeding nitrogen pressure off first, you lose some of the carefully measured oil volume. This happened to me and was a pain to remedy. If you bleed the nitrogen first there is no pressure to drive the oil out.. this is the way to go, but you need a way to bring it back up to pressure again.
King specifically instructs you to not loosen the line much and says it won't leak, even with pressure on it. I couldn't make this work with the room I had for wrenches.
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Thanks for the clarification. I asked my son and he just said to re-clock and to release the pressure without the details... I just missed the release pressure step 1st . He works at king and I let him do all my king related stuff on my 80 for obvious reasons 
.
Cheers,
George.
.Cheers,
George.
I got word from Ben on the fitting type King uses. Standard 37° AN/JIC. These in the appropriate size would fix the problem… I’ll need to double check the size, and obviously this requires bleeding pressure and being careful to fill with oil and remove entrapped air..
6500 37 Degree JIC Male to JIC Female Swivel 90 Elbow Fittings | HydraulicHoses.com
Buy fittings online, JIC to elbows, provided by HydraulicHoses.com
www.hydraulichoses.com
This has been a bit of an adventure.. the line is definitely -6 based on the part number molded into it. But -6 JIC fittings are clearly too small.. and without taking my shocks apart it is difficult to get a positive ID. Turns out -6 SAE 45° has larger hexes.. got one of those, still not right.
So I'm narrowing it down to the line being -6 but the fittings being -8 37° JIC.
Before I bought two more fittings that may not work, I contacted King this morning. They said they should be -8 JIC (37°), but would be concerned about possible cavitation of adding a 90° forged fitting in the flow path.. those things have a very sharp angle inside.
Sure making the case for just protecting the lines..
But that doesn't play nicely with my compulsion toward problem solving.
A 45° fitting would get me the angle and position I need, and be much less restrictive to flow.
Or even better, they make the fittings in a bent-tube format for great flow characteristics, even if they are more expensive. About $25 ea, vs $8-10.
Inserting this into the line without adding significant air will be a process. King was explicit that I'd need to do a full rebuild, but I have an idea similar to what I did when I had to add oil to one line after the leak. Should save me having to remove the whole assembly.. and potentially add a very small amount of air, but that will be reduced in volume significantly once 200psi is added to the shock, and it should just find a high spot in the reservoir where it doesn't harm anything.
Anyway, when I get this part and add it I'll document all of that in a separate thread. Probably way too much work for the average person simply trying to avoid reservoir hose rub, but IMO this is the right way to address the problem for people with -50 wheels like myself.
I found it funny both Filthy and King said my wheels must be the wrong offset, they never have rub issues. Never occurred to me Rock Warriors would be considered "wrong", but then I guess the majority of people running kings go with significantly less offset for other reasons.
So I'm narrowing it down to the line being -6 but the fittings being -8 37° JIC.
Before I bought two more fittings that may not work, I contacted King this morning. They said they should be -8 JIC (37°), but would be concerned about possible cavitation of adding a 90° forged fitting in the flow path.. those things have a very sharp angle inside.
Sure making the case for just protecting the lines..
But that doesn't play nicely with my compulsion toward problem solving.
A 45° fitting would get me the angle and position I need, and be much less restrictive to flow.
Or even better, they make the fittings in a bent-tube format for great flow characteristics, even if they are more expensive. About $25 ea, vs $8-10.
Inserting this into the line without adding significant air will be a process. King was explicit that I'd need to do a full rebuild, but I have an idea similar to what I did when I had to add oil to one line after the leak. Should save me having to remove the whole assembly.. and potentially add a very small amount of air, but that will be reduced in volume significantly once 200psi is added to the shock, and it should just find a high spot in the reservoir where it doesn't harm anything.
Anyway, when I get this part and add it I'll document all of that in a separate thread. Probably way too much work for the average person simply trying to avoid reservoir hose rub, but IMO this is the right way to address the problem for people with -50 wheels like myself.
I found it funny both Filthy and King said my wheels must be the wrong offset, they never have rub issues. Never occurred to me Rock Warriors would be considered "wrong", but then I guess the majority of people running kings go with significantly less offset for other reasons.
I just wanted to say that the hoses are rated at a high pressure for a reason. Even though the reservoirs are initially charged to 200 psi, when the shocks are compressed the pressure on the line is way higher.
Boyle's Law applies here, so the pressure may be around 1500psi to 2000psi depending on few things that effect the volume of nitrogen space.
Boyle's Law applies here, so the pressure may be around 1500psi to 2000psi depending on few things that effect the volume of nitrogen space.
I assumed they used a high pressure hose mainly because shocks with compression adjusters will see very high pressures in the lines due to how the damping works.. and also for physical durability in the harsh environments of our wheel wells. But you are right, even without comp adjusters 200psi will become something much greater when the shock is fully compressed, depending on the volume the shaft displaces compared to the extended nitrogen space.
The fittings I'm looking at using all exceed the pressure rating of the line, so I think we're good on that.
Is everyone who is having rubbing issues on Toyota +60 factory or +50 RW wheels? If so why not solve with a small ~5mm or maybe 10mm wheel spacer? Pretty sure those will work with the factory lug nuts.
- Thread starter
- #34
I didn't have Kings reservoir hose rubbing issues on Spidertrax 1.25" spacers (TRD Pro rims), it was only when I took them out that I got contact.
I'm pretty sure that I solved my Kings hose contact issue with +40 wheels and 34" tires.
The $16 I spent on hose protector wrap was money well spent in my opinion. It just adds an extra layer of protection.
I'm pretty sure that I solved my Kings hose contact issue with +40 wheels and 34" tires.
The $16 I spent on hose protector wrap was money well spent in my opinion. It just adds an extra layer of protection.
I’m guessing so, since king and filthy both told me my wheels must be wrong if I’m getting contact.
I’m opposed to the idea of spacers in general, whether they require extra lugs/studs or reduce the thread engagement of stock. Also pretty sure 10mm wouldn’t clear on my passenger side.
The zip tie protection is working great, to be honest. But I’d rather there not be any contact at all, and appreciate a challenge.
Which one ended up fitting best
- Thread starter
- #37
I apologize, but I don't recall, but my post above says I used 3/4.
Size for hose to protect King remote lines
I'm going to give this hydraulic hose protector from a local hydraulic specialty shop a shot: That's even better than the split loom I suggested, should work fine and slide on any contact point.
forum.ih8mud.com
It is a very effective solution.