Simple Oil Change, What'd I do?

[FishNinJay]

Ok.. I'm a newb..

Just got my '71 FJ40 w/ SBC 327cid, auto trans. According to the stamping & google, I think this is a '65 327cid from a corvette.

Doing some "new car" maintenance. I had a bad fuel leak that I temporarily fixed with an inline filter, and put some Thermo-tec heat shield wrap around it, because the area of leak was about 1.5 inches from hot exhaust. That seems ok now. I also have an aux tank, which as far as I know works ok.

So, today, I did a routine oil change. Drained about 3.25qts of pretty black oil (PO used 10W30) and removed a Wix filter. I put on a Mobile 1 Extended Performance High Efficiency, High Capacity oil filter (which was about half the height of the Wix filter.. interesting..). Put in 5qts of fully synthetic Mobile 1 High-Mileage 10W30 oil, supposedly for engines over 75K miles. Drove it around the neighborhood a few times, and was cruising at idle, and it just died.. as if out of gas. Fuel lines looks fine. After a bit, I could get it started again, but had to punch the gas to keep it going, or it would die out. Got it home, checked oil. Looks fine, but a bit low, like 1/2qt. Before I did the oil change, it would start right up with a nice roar, with no gas or choke.

It sounds like carb/fuel issues.. but why would that happen after a simple oil change? Is it the oil and filter? Are these "high-mileage" oils bogus?

Earlier, I peeked in the radiator (cold), and didn't really see a coolant level, so figure I may need to top off the coolant with some water.. but my temps seem ok (190-205).

Any ideas? Maybe it'll just settle down after awhile? (I hope!?)

My growing ToDo list, in approximate order of priority...
- replace/reroute fuel lines w/ steel-braided, replace plugs, wires, distributor, rotor, points, timing, check/change out other fluids, coolant system, figure out the electrical bird's nest, etc..

Am I missing anything?

 

[3jvj]

Clogged fuel pickup at the tank or a leak in your fuel line is preventing fuel delivery (my guess).

The two are unrelated (let's hope).

 

[lostmarbles]

Does your engine have any "low oil pressure protection"?

Despite the PO SAYING he used 10W-30, perhaps he actually used a thicker oil?

And if your engine does have some form of "low oil pressure cut-out protection", what is your oil pressure at hot-idle?

(I've never run oil that thin in any engine I've owned - but then I don't live in a cold country.)

 

[FishNinJay]

I don't think there a fuel line leak anymore. I cut out the bad segment and put the inline fuel filter a few days ago. Hasn't been leaking since. Also, has a pretty new fuel pump (per PO). I've been driving it several miles a day since I fixed the fuel line, and no problems. Only today, after the oil change.

I don't think it has "low oil pressure protection", what is that? As for the oil pressure at "hot-idle", I'm not sure. I thought after an oil change, the pressure will be low, then rise (or vice-versa?) but it seemed to be just under 40psi, right from the start and stayed there. The temp stayed at 190. The PO is reliable, a MUD member, and baby'ed this rig, and even after the sale, has been great with the communication and details. I'm pretty sure he used whatever he said he did, likely 10W30. I'm sticking with 10W30 due to the age of the engine, and the weather here in LA/OC. Still not sure what this "high-mileage oil" is, but it got my attention, didn't it? <~~ sucker born every minute?

We'll see how it starts up in the AM.

 

[3jvj]

Fuel filter facing the correct direction (I've done it before )?

 

[FishNinJay]

Rust debris in fuel line, filter, carb?

i took out the metal inline fuel filter that was bridging the leak. (it was oriented correctly).

After some troubleshooting, I think I messed up my fuel system and carb by running the aux tank to try and bypass the main line leak. Here's what I found in the glass inline fuel filter next to the carb:

Looks like rust?

My rig was idling and running great right off the transport carrier truck. I think my problems began when I was tinkering with the aux tank. I learned later that the PO never used the aux tank, and I probably should have stayed away from it until I got the aux tank checked out first.

I've taken out the metal inline filter and replaced it with a brass fitting to splice he main line. Now, I can get it started, if I pull the choke all the way and pump the gas. It will idle rough for a bit, then die. If I give it a little gas, it will run rough, but if I give it even more gas, it dies.

Tomorrow, I'm going to replace this glass inline filter, and take the carb off. I won't disassemble it, as I don't have a rebuild kit, or the know-how. But I'll try and spray it out with some carb cleaner best I can and put it back on. I'll also test the fuel pump. Would this crud damage the fuel pump? I think it was fairly new. I read here that the fuel pump should put out about 4-8oz of gas with about 15sec of cranking the starter? Does that sound about right?

Hopefully it will start up. Originally, it was running great off the main tank, so hopefully, I can get it back close to that original condition. If not, I think I'll have to take the carb in for an "official" clean/rebuild.

The positive terminal on my Optima yellow-top batt is also loose, with the starter wire pulling out! I have to replace that, and recharge my battery, as I was cranking my starter a lot trying to (unsuccessfully) get my rig running.

Any thoughts? My chances of success? Anything else I should try?

 

[fj40forlife]

Jay. what kinda fuel pump do you have. Manual or electric? I would put a fuel filter before the fuel pump if it doesn't already have one

 

[FishNinJay]

Jay. what kinda fuel pump do you have. Manual or electric? I would put a fuel filter before the fuel pump if it doesn't already have one

Eric, that sounds reasonable.. all this crud obviously passed thru the fuel pump to reach this filter. Should I have two? 1 on either side of the fuel pump? or do you mean move this one in front, and just have fuel line going from pump direct to my Edelbrock 4b carb? I don't know if the pump is electric or manual. I'll take a closer look at it, and try to figure that out. Why do you ask?

I don't know what effect inline fuel filters have on flow. Being the geek that I am, I was going to do a little experiment and test the output from my fuel pump without any filters vs thru the filter. Maybe I'll also try testing it thru 2 filters? just for kicks..
hope I don't burn out my starter..

Here's something else.. the outflow of my fuel pump is a metal tube, several inches long, heading forward. The fuel line to the carb is attached here, and makes a bit of a kink to head towards the carb. I can loosen the line and take some of this kink out, but the bend gets kind of close to the radiator fan blades. What is this metal pipe exiting the fuel pump? Can I cut off about an inch or two and clamp the fuel line closer to the pump? This would give me less kink and more clearance away from the fan blades. [I'll take a picture and edit this post later.]
Here's a newb question.. IF i do cut this metal tube.. how should I do it? Tight to get a hacksaw in there.. Dremel? Will it spark? (I need to get a fire extinguisher!)

I wouldn't be even thinking of doing any of this Frankenstein stuff on my rig if it weren't for the awesome people on this site! THANKS!!

 

[D'Animal]

What carburetor are you running?

Some Holly carbs have a brass looking sintered screen at the carburetor where the fuel line connects. You may have to check that screen insted of removing the carb, etc.

 

[FishNinJay]

What carburetor are you running?

Some Holly carbs have a brass looking sintered screen at the carburetor where the fuel line connects. You may have to check that screen insted of removing the carb, etc.

Hi D'An, It's an Edelbrock 4bbl, not sure of the specifics beyond that (eg. number or model, Performer, etc..). It's on a 327cid SBC. I'll look for a screen. My only concern is the Gunk-Out carb spray says the engine has to be idling when spraying down the carb.. and I don't think it will hold idle. So, I was just going to take it off, and spray the crap out of it and let it dry before reinstalling. BUT.. not disassemble the million pieces. Bad idea?

 

[car-car]

Eric, that sounds reasonable.. all this crud obviously passed thru the fuel pump to reach this filter. Should I have two? 1 on either side of the fuel pump? or do you mean move this one in front, and just have fuel line going from pump direct to my Edelbrock 4b carb? I don't know if the pump is electric or manual. I'll take a closer look at it, and try to figure that out. Why do you ask?

I don't know what effect inline fuel filters have on flow. Being the geek that I am, I was going to do a little experiment and test the output from my fuel pump without any filters vs thru the filter. Maybe I'll also try testing it thru 2 filters? just for kicks..
hope I don't burn out my starter..

Here's something else.. the outflow of my fuel pump is a metal tube, several inches long, heading forward. The fuel line to the carb is attached here, and makes a bit of a kink to head towards the carb. I can loosen the line and take some of this kink out, but the bend gets kind of close to the radiator fan blades. What is this metal pipe exiting the fuel pump? Can I cut off about an inch or two and clamp the fuel line closer to the pump? This would give me less kink and more clearance away from the fan blades. [I'll take a picture and edit this post later.]
Here's a newb question.. IF i do cut this metal tube.. how should I do it? Tight to get a hacksaw in there.. Dremel? Will it spark? (I need to get a fire extinguisher!)

I wouldn't be even thinking of doing any of this Frankenstein stuff on my rig if it weren't for the awesome people on this site! THANKS!!

Whoa....put the sawzall down and slowly back away from the cruiser and no one gets hurt. You probably don't need to start hacking away at your hard lines yet and turn a relatively simple fix into something more than that. Be systematic about it. You know it ran well off the main tank previously, so get back to your baseline.

• That being said, bypass your aux tank for a while until you get that thing cleaned out. That can be another project for another day. Trying to troubleshoot this by removing as many variables as possible.
• Get that inline filter cleaned out or replaced, and it wouldn't hurt to put a second cheap filter in play (even just temporarily if you are worried about flow rate) on the other side of the fuel pump for the time being just to make certain you are catching any dirt/rust/debris. It probably wouldn't hurt to blow out the lines if you accumulated that much junk in your filter that quickly once you started using the aux tank.
• So, now once your lines are clean from the tank to the carb, check to see if you have the small brass screen on the inlet on your carb. I am not familar with the Holley's to if and where it might be on yours, but many carbs do have this as another last ditch filter mechanism.
• At this point, if everything checks out, you can spray out the carb and fire it up and see how it does. If you are still having issues, check your filters again to be certain you aren't getting gunk from the main tank. If all clear, then you have some of the original gunk from your aux tank that is clogging up your carb in some manner. If that is the case, you can try the Oklahoma rebuild method first (use the Search function here in the tech section for instructions), and at worst disassemble to clean and blow out all passage ways within the carb (at that point you might as well get a rebuild kit since you already have it apart).

Anyways, a little wordy, but it shouldn't be too much to get your rig back up and running. I would leave the hardlines alone unless they look like they were ghetto-fabbed (post up pics for everyone to check out if you are concerned), but even then it was running before with those same lines, so those probably are not your issue.

Good luck and post back your progress.

 

[ken_79-fj40]

I've never had an edelbrock carb but from what I hear they are very similar to a Weber with no gaskets below the float level. So you could pull the top off it on the truck without much worry of ruining anything but the top gasket without dumping gas all over the intake like with a holley. and seeing as how the top gasket is above the fuel level if you did tear it you could use a small amount of gasket sealer to glue it back together. The reason I say this is because carbs don't like to get junk in them, and spraying the outside of the carb and down the barrels isn't likely going to do anything. Some of that trash in your filter probably made it through and is now in the carb. I would pull the top off the carb and take a look. If it's got junk in it pull it off the truck, pull the jets and I believe edelbrocks have metering rods out and spray the inside with carb cleaner through all the passages, then blow it out good with compressed air and repeat the process. Make sure you have a filter before the pump and before the carb. As long as you put it back together the same way you took it apart (take notes) then it should work fine after you clean it.