Side by side 80 and 100 pads (1 Viewer)

[CharlieS]

Just sort of an FYI in visual form. The 100 pads are defilitely a lot bigger.

I have all the parts from CDan for a birf job, new rotors and 100 pads, but due to time constraints (making maple syrup) and lack of a garage, I decided to do a quick pad only replacement with stock 80 pads, just to get my brakes back to "safe" mode.

While I had both side by side I thoguth I'd take some pictures for the group.

Incidentally, CDan is my hero, I made the bad mistake of going to my local dealer to get these 80 pads, because I needed them tomorrow and I paid WAY too much. CDan is the man. Next time I plan ahead...

Here are some pictures to show you the visual differences - lots more surface area and much more thickness on the 100 pads.

 

[Rich]

Does the pad friction material composition look to be the same?

 

[CharlieS]

Rich,

Yes it does. At least upon a visual comparison. I do not have any means to test the hardness, or anything like that.

BTW - they are both stock Toyota pads, not aftermarket. The 80 pads are p/n 04465-60110 and the 100 pads are p/n 04465-60220.

Charlie

 

[LX_TREME]

Im wondering whether the 100 series pads will fit right onto SLEE (DBA) all fours
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/products_drivetrain_main.htm

 

[NorCalDoug]

Perfect timing CharlieS...and you saved me some time in taking and posting pics. I just did the brake pad replacement this evening, switching to the 100 series pads for the first time. I was going to snap the exact same pics

The 100 series pads are substantially thicker than the 80 series pads. I was able to get all 3 of the 4 pads installed fairly easily -- the PS inside pad wanted to fight with me...I won eventually.

I did notice that I lost the wire that holds the pins in (you notice I use only the most technical terms ) on the PS calipers. The pins hadn't moved, but I'll need to replace it soon...in the mean time, I booty-fabbed cotter pins from thick staples. They should work temporarily.

It's too new for me to compare stopping power...

On the negative side...I saw that I seem to have uneven brake wear -- I'll be keeping an eye on that to see if it's an ongoing problem.

 

[NorCalDoug]

Does the pad friction material composition look to be the same?

I agree with Charlie -- seems to be the same material...

 

[e9999]

Doug, did you just put the 100 pads in on an 80 pad-worn rotor or did you clean up/ turn the rotor first?

 

[NorCalDoug]

Doug, did you just put the 100 pads in on an 80 pad-worn rotor or did you clean up/ turn the rotor first?

I slapped the 100 series pads right on the 80 pad-worn rotor. As I stated in another thread, I'm not a huge fan of rotor turning...besides, I have no method of turning rotors in my driveway .

I'm slowly/gently working the pads in. The rotors seem to be in good shape -- no grooves, per se, on either side (i.e. inside and outside) of the rotors.

 

[CharlieS]

I did the 80 pads just now. Logged on to look for the lug nut spec since I can't find it in my FSM. I can find every othr torque on the vehicle but the one I need. ARGhhh. A quick search will turn it up though.

I wanted to say that this was hands down the easiest pad replacement I have ever done on any vehicle. I feel like I could've done it without any tools except a lug wrench.

Makes me think they designed it for ease of maintenance when the driver is stuck in east overshoe. That's a great feeling.

I notice that my passenger side was wearing strangely. The pads were significantly more worn on the bottom. Viewed edge on they are a wedge shape. Makes me thing the upper pistons aren't moving freely. However, they retracted easily and the wear was symetrical on that side of the car (both pads on the PS were thicker at the top than the bottom). Wierd.

Kind of funny that it probably took me more time to find the lug nut spec than it did to swap pads.

Thanks,
Charlie

 

[Landpimp]

I posted this a few years back.

this is whats needed to fit a 100 pad into a 91-2

modified 100 pad on left, new 100 pad in middle, 80 pad(metal master) on right

 

[BOUNDER]

Is it the groups opinion that the 100 pad is just designed to be quieter than the 80 pads - to suit the American Mall cruiser sensitive-genious ears? I say this as a former VW Jetta GLI 16v Wolfsburg ( 1990 - the GOOD year -not made in Mexico) driver - Germans are not afraid of a little "metallica" when it comes to brakes.

 

[Rich]

From looking at the pictures I'd guess that the 100 series pad is designed to last longer.

 

[NorCalDoug]

I did the 80 pads just now. Logged on to look for the lug nut spec since I can't find it in my FSM. I can find every othr torque on the vehicle but the one I need. ARGhhh. A quick search will turn it up though.
...

Lug nut spec should be in the owner's manual too.

For your 96, I believe it's 76 or 78 ft/lbs. I typically set mine at 80 -- easier to remember the round number.

If you see something around 100 ft/lbs, that's not for the alloy it's for steel...so unless you have OEM steelies on, you'll want the lower torque setting for the lug nuts.

 

[e9999]

I slapped the 100 series pads right on the 80 pad-worn rotor. As I stated in another thread, I'm not a huge fan of rotor turning...besides, I have no method of turning rotors in my driveway .

I'm slowly/gently working the pads in. The rotors seem to be in good shape -- no grooves, per se, on either side (i.e. inside and outside) of the rotors.

did you have an elevated rusty ridge at the edge of the rotor?

If so, please keep us posted on how fast the pad edge / ridge wear out or clean up?

 

[Pyro-boy]

Doug, you got it spot on. 76 Ft/lbs for alloys. On a side note if you do anything with Discount tire they seem to have the wrong torque spec. They tried to tell me that it was 110 Ft/lbs. This was at a discount tire here in New Mexico.

Vince

 

[NorCalDoug]

Doug, you got it spot on. 76 Ft/lbs for alloys. On a side note if you do anything with Discount tire they seem to have the wrong torque spec. They tried to tell me that it was 110 Ft/lbs. This was at a discount tire here in New Mexico.

Vince

Vince is correct about Discount Tire -- a.k.a. America's Tire in CA. For LCs they have the older torque setting (pre-95? (C-Dan posted the info once before)), which I believe is the same as the OEM steelies.

All the pink panties wearing LX owners are okay though. The torque settings are correct at this establishment for our lug nuts .

 

[NorCalDoug]

did you have an elevated rusty ridge at the edge of the rotor?

If so, please keep us posted on how fast the pad edge / ridge wear out or clean up?

No, no elevated rusty ridge that I noticed. The outside edge is rusty, but nothing on the surface. The rotors have about 30k miles on them.

I'll keep an eye on them.

 

[sixsracing]

CharlieS, something you wrote piqued my curiousity "the pads were thicker on the top". This would indicate more pressure/movement of the bottom pistons. How long has it been or have you ever bled the brakes? The reason I ask is, if there is air in that caliper it would be at the top and could be the reason the top pistons are not travelling as far as the bottom. You wrote that pad replacement was very easy so I have to assume that the top pistons were not stuck. Just wondering.

 

[CharlieS]

sixsracing,

I like your theory. I hadn't thought of that.

Yes, that is exactly the case - thicker on top than the bottom. I agree, it seems that the top pistons on that side aren't exerting as much force. Air in the system would make sense.

The top pistons on the PS retracted with normal effort, so I assume they are not frozen. Siezed pistons was my original theory until I retracted them fine.

The cruiser is new to me and hasn't had the brakes bled in my ownership (month or so). I have "all" of the reciepts since new, and I don't see any explicit mention of flushing them. However, there was a caliper replacement fairly recently (DS) - by the dealer - so I would hope they bled them. You know how it goes with assuming though.

I'm due for a brake fluid flush anyway. I may run some ATE blue into it, just for the heck of it. I've had good luck with the ATE brake fluids (blue/gold) - makes it easier to see when a flush is done at least...

We are just getting to the weather when I can get anything done (we live in the mountains of Vermont and I don't have a garage yet). I plan to flush the brake fluid along with the rest of a fluid baseline when the weather is better.

I like your theory though and may just have to bleed them soon.

Thanks!

Charlie

 

[e9999]

unless there is some bizarre mechanical shenanigan based on hardware that is going on, I don't think that having air in the system makes any difference as far as pressure distribution. At equilibrium -which would happen so fast here that it's not an issue- the pressure in the system will be the same whether you have air or hydraulic fluid. The only difference would be hydrostatic pressure gradients which here over a distance of inches are also negligible.