Should I buy this FJ45?

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Joined
Jul 21, 2008
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Is it worth it?

1978 FJ45, 46 000 km's on it (replacement engine). 2F petrol engine.

The thing is in great condition, the only thing stopping me is that I've heard that they are very heavy petrol drinkers. How true is this? I planned to use this on fairly long trips in the bush, as well as daily driving, so my main concern is its' fuel consumption (there is a definite budget on how much petrol i can afford;))

Does anyone have any specs or advice ? Should I wait around for a diesel model (having heard they are better), or jump in and get this one? Diesel's here are fairly common, however generally have the hell beaten out of them and are extremely heavy on the odometer.

Cheers
 
The low kms on that truck, if genuine, would make it an attractive proposition, depending of course on the price - how much $$$ is the owner looking for?

Given you use of the word 'petrol' and the scarcity of the FJ45 in the British Isles, I would suspect you live in Australia - correct?

And yup, the 2F is likely to return you, in good operating condition, somewhere in the range of 12~14mpg.

A diesel-engined version of the FJ45, namely a BJ45 or HJ47/47, will give you near enough to double the fuel economy of the gas engine, typically 20~24 mpg. Swapping a diesel in can be relatively painless, or a major project, depending upon which diesel you swap in and how many changes are required to make it work properly. While there are lots of diesels out there, some are more suited to trucks than cars, some are too big and heavy to be put into a cruiser without serious suspension or sheet metal changes, and some are difficult to tie into the remainder of the Toyota drive train. The easiest swap for the F type of engine would probably be the Toyota H or 2H engines, as they can interchangeably bolt to the same transmission and take up, in the case of the H/2H, the same rough amount of physical space in the engine bay. I wouldn't bother with the H engine though, given a choice, as the scarcity of parts for that engine would present a hurdle. The 2H is still an old engine, in production from 1980~1990, and made it into many markets. Parts are still available, though there is a sunset not too far off for parts availability I'm sure.

The Toyota B series of engines are great, however a lot of mod will need to happen before you can bolt one in. It would be best to get a hold of a 13BT (the turbo version of the 3B), complete with 5-speed. In the non-turbo B engines, a 1985 or later 3B has the advantage of an extra bearing for the camshaft, so is a touch better than the earlier models.

Now, if you are real handy in the fabbing department, you might want to consider a sweet newer Toyota engine like a 1HZ - gobs of torque, very quiet, low emissions, parts not an issue at all (unless you live somewhere that never received these engines into the market, like N. America).

If you get into diesels, you may also want to get into biodiesel/WVO at some point, and with those types of fuels it is better to run an older diesel with the indirect type of injection system and inline injector pump. These are better suited to running alternative fuels than the rotary pump/direct injection types. Pretty much every Toyota factory turbo engine (13BT, 12HT, etc, uses indirect injection. In fact the use of the number '1' prefix in the engine model number, designates direct injection type instead of indirect.

The normally aspirated diesels, like the 2B/3B/2H, can all be turboed with their older type of injection pumps and indirect injection. The B series are a little better suited to turboing, as they came with factory piston skirt cooling nozzles. This is no a big issue though, as there are brands of hi-temp compatible pistons available for the H type of engine that don't require piston skirt cooling. Also, the piston cooling oil nozzles can be retrofitted to the H/2H series engines without too much fuss.

Turbo engines develop higher cylinder head pressures, so it would be *best*, if you modified a NA diesel with a turbo, to change pistons out to drop the compression ratio. By way of comparison, a NA 2H is around 20.5:1 compression ration, while the turbo version of that engine, 12HT, has a compression ratio of 18:1 or thereabouts. This is just from memory, so my numbers may be slightly in error, but pretty close.



You never mentioned whereabouts you live so I can't give any more suggestions as the focus is a bit uncertain.
 
Blimey good to see someone know's there stuff, cheers for that.

The owner is after around $4000 AUS, so yes I'm in Australia. Here in Queensland (north-east coast) there are plenty of FJ45's, especially in towns such as mine, which are surrounded by cattle and cane properties and the like. Although there are plenty, people generally love their utes and don't put them on the market, especially if they are in decent condition.

As much as I would love to, at this stage an engine swap isn't on the cards .. (poor uni student!). If I was able to do so I'd probably be limited to the 2H or thereabouts - I'm learning the ins-and-outs as I go so it would be a bloody big learning curve - plus after the original purchase of the FJ45 I'll be rather low on cash!

Someone on another thread mentioned a well-tuned 2F in an FJ45 getting 17 mpg, this of course sounds good to me! How would that be possible?

Cheers for your help mate
 
Given petrol is over $1.55/litre, and diesel is nearly $1.90/litre. Gas, at $.66/litre makes it 1/3ish the price of diesel. I use 25 litres/100kms gas, 19 litres/100 petrol on my FJ40 LX with a 5 speed. Your 2F is older, and your 45 would be larger/heavier. You can still get the $2000 gas bonus from Big Brother if you convert to gas, so that may be the way to go. Here in Adealiade, a gas conversion costs about $2500- thus leaving you to pay about $500. You will pay quite a lot more for a diesel ute, so it is likely that a petrol rig will copst you alot less in the long run.

Problems with petrol/gas: In the bush, I have trouble getting gas, so I have to run straight petrol. This is not a big deal, as you get about 30% better economy on petrol, but petrol in the bush can be over $2/litre right now (of course, I was up at Parachilna a few weeks ago, and diesel was at $2.45/litre). Another problem with gas is that you cannot carry jerry cans of the stuff. You can carry a BBQ bottle, but it will only fill untill the pressure is equalised, and that is about 9-10 litres from a full bottle. Finally, when towing with petrol, you can stir up dust with the fuel guage. I tow a Kimberly camper trailer, and my fuel use nearly doubles.

I would say that if the rig is clean, buy it. You can always chuck a diesel lump in it down the track. I am talking to Marks Adapters about making an adapter to put the D4D in mine. Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Josh
 
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