Your actually better of if you can find a used model (684) like this one which had the swing arm that they no longer make. A friend got the newer one that just tilts forward to open your hatch but it has to be closed and all items secured before you can tilt it or everything falls out. The new one looks as though they did some cost cutting by removing a lot of steel.
The ahc will certainly not hold the specified max load after all these years, unless the TBs have been tightened and the rear coils changed. Look at maybe 500 lb lower capacity.
5-6 hours each direction through mountains (Washington State) Fully loaded with 3 adults AND 5 kids (8 total) with my thule 21cu ft cargo box completely full, behind the seats completely full, and towing my 3500lb trailer through the passes. I averaged 9.9mpg one way and 11.2 mpg return. Temperature outside during the trip was 104 F. ALL on a 1999LX with 220k miles. AHC works great, I change the fluid every 2nd year.
The ahc will certainly not hold the specified max load after all these years, unless the TBs have been tightened and the rear coils changed. Look at maybe 500 lb lower capacity.
What makes you say that? I don't plan on lowering it when I stop and expecting it to raise from L to N with that kind of load. I'm just going to leave it in N and drive it.
Can someone link me to the 'Tightening TB's' thread? I don't plan on changing my springs ever unless there is something wrong.
5-6 hours each direction through mountains (Washington State) Fully loaded with 3 adults AND 5 kids (8 total) with my thule 21cu ft cargo box completely full, behind the seats completely full, and towing my 3500lb trailer through the passes. I averaged 9.9mpg one way and 11.2 mpg return. Temperature outside during the trip was 104 F. ALL on a 1999LX with 220k miles. AHC works great, I change the fluid every 2nd year.
What makes you say that? I don't plan on lowering it when I stop and expecting it to raise from L to N with that kind of load. I'm just going to leave it in N and drive it.
Even if you leave it in N, the AHC still has to carry all the load you add, people and cargo, and will increase the pressure in order to keep the height. Now, if the pressure is too high to start with, it will soon hit the ceiling, the maximum pressure, and end up lower than Normal. The reason the pressure is expected to be too high now, is that all steel springs loose height year by year, and in an AHC-equipped cruiser, that means that the ahc accumulators carry more and more of the load as the years go by. And you don't notice until you add weight up towards the maximum, or you notice that the comfort is not what it used to be - but that's a slow change - not easy to notice.
This weekend I had approx 1100lbs in it (5 people plus gear) and 0 issues, ride was like butter. I think it's going to be fine, but I appreciate everyone's input. I'll let you know how it goes.
This weekend I had approx 1100lbs in it (5 people plus gear) and 0 issues, ride was like butter. I think it's going to be fine, but I appreciate everyone's input. I'll let you know how it goes.
Sounds good then.
If it's possible without spending too much time/energy/money, I would still run it through a t0yota-tester or techStream to check the Neutral Pressure. If high, it takes only a few minutes to lower the pressure up front, by tightening the TBs; the rears a bit more - by changing the coils, or just lower the sensor 1/2 inch.
I would say that I've messed with my AHC as much as anyone. I don't understand what you are trying to accomplish by turning your TBs?
I do know this...AHC operates in a fine/delicate balance, front to rear. Anything you do to take pressure off the rear will need to be done at the front and vice versa. Cranking the TBs up front with no adjustment in the rear is going to cause more issues than it solves.
I run a slight lift via AHC sensor adjustments. About 1.5". I have a roof rack, awning, full drawer system, sliders, and a rear bumper. Loaded down with another person and a week of camping gear, the AHC is at the extreme limit of it's effectiveness.
I would say that you will be fine with your passengers and load. But it will be close...
Leave it as is and roll the dice. Once you start changing the system it's very hard to go back...
^^ Thanks for the info. I am going to leave it alone, as I am not really familiar enough (even though I'm trying to be) with the system to start messing around with it. Not to mention, at the moment everything is functioning perfectly. My gut tells me that given the service history of the vehicle and the extremely light use that it will be just fine.
i wouldn't worry about the suspension. for more cargo space, try the Harbor Freight hitch rack if you don't want to load up the roof. i got one recently with 25% coupon because i was hauling 7 adults, their luggage, week's worth of food and pots/pans, etc that I knew wouldn't all fit inside. the rack bolts together in like 10min and holds 500# of junk. only issue is with stock hitch height vs height/location of exhaust, you may slightly melt something on a 3hr drive luckily it was just the strap on a bag for us. i'm eventually going to cut/reweld to give it more height, but you could also use a double-stacked hitch receiver or just load the rack with that in mind. no clearance issues with upper tailgate when loaded with icechest and bags. tailgate even clears with empty hitch rack.
You can also rent one of these to tow all the gear. It will take some of the load off the vehicle and put it on another set of tires. Will also give a bit more breathing room in the back.