Shock Tips?

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Sep 29, 2008
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Just bought some new OEM shocks for the Cruiser. Any tips on installation? it looks like I don't need to jack the truck up at all, I can just remove the shocks/replace them? Also, I don't have that socket that fits on the ends of the shock and keeps it from spinning, I've tried an adjustable wrench etc. and they don't work. Do I have to get this socket before installing the shocks? Any other tips are also greatly appreciated!
 
Getting the wheels off the ground will make it easier as you can then get the upper side in and then push (or have someone step) down on the wheel to give you more room to get the lower side in.

If you go that route, you'll need some pretty tall jack stands to go under the frame.
 
You can use a pipe wrench on the front shock outer body if that's what you're referring to. Be sure to put PB Blaster or similar penetrating oil on it for a couple days - especially the two upper rear shock plate mounting bolts which you can get to with the little plastic straw thing.

DougM
 
Just buy the socket and save yourself a huge headache.
 
If this socket fits the 'flat' section of the threaded shaft on the top of the shock - be advised I've twisted those flat sections right off getting 80 shocks off. YMMV

DougM
 
If this socket fits the 'flat' section of the threaded shaft on the top of the shock - be advised I've twisted those flat sections right off getting 80 shocks off. YMMV

DougM

X2 especially the small OEM shock sections. The OME are a bit beefier.


I ended up using liberal amounts of heat via propane torch to get the old OEM shocks off. I also used a really small open ended wrench on the bottom tab and jammed in against the axle. The easiest way to remove the old shocks was to remove the front tires and get in there with a pipe wrench. The rears could easily be removed with the tire on and vehicle on the ground.

You might want to put some anti-seize compound on the threads to save you some head ache in future shock removal.
 
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be careful on those lower bolts if it is salty and snowy where you are. if you snap one of those studs you are in trouble. lots of PB blaster and patience.
 
Getting the wheels off the ground will make it easier as you can then get the upper side in and then push (or have someone step) down on the wheel to give you more room to get the lower side in.

If you go that route, you'll need some pretty tall jack stands to go under the frame.

I don't have any floorjacks/jackstands besides the one that came from Toyota. Do you think I can get the shock on w/o removing the tires and jacking up the truck? Thanks for your advice!
 
Thanks for all the replies. I'm gonna get the socket for the top of the shocks.

Does anyone have any advice on how to get the front driver upper shock mount off w/o bashing the master cylander? I'm afraid with the amount of effort it takes to get the bolt of, my wrench might smack/damage something because its in such a tight space.
 
I don't have any floorjacks/jackstands besides the one that came from Toyota. Do you think I can get the shock on w/o removing the tires and jacking up the truck? Thanks for your advice!

You can if the nuts aren't frozen to the studs, removing the tire just gives better access.

Thanks for all the replies. I'm gonna get the socket for the top of the shocks.

Does anyone have any advice on how to get the front driver upper shock mount off w/o bashing the master cylander? I'm afraid with the amount of effort it takes to get the bolt of, my wrench might smack/damage something because its in such a tight space.

Just use caution and carefully use a torch to heat the nuts if they are frozen. It can be done without melting anything but you have to use a small flame and go really slow.

I didn't use a socket. For the front top bolts I used one hand to reach below the fender and clamp on the metal stone guard with some pliers and then used a closed end wrench with my other hand on the top stud nut after heating the nut with a torch. Worked like a charm and did not have to worry about snapping the stud.

You may need someone with long arms to do this or get a helper.
 
Does anyone have any advice on how to get the front driver upper shock mount off w/o bashing the master cylander? I'm afraid with the amount of effort it takes to get the bolt of, my wrench might smack/damage something because its in such a tight space.

I used a short ratchet wrench to remove the nut after cracking it loose with a crow foot - makes the job 100x easier.
 
I didn't use a socket. For the front top bolts I used one hand to reach below the fender and clamp on the metal stone guard with some pliers

Major noob question here, what do you mean by the "metal stone guard"?


So today I ran all over the place looking for the socket, I can't find it. I'm going to try and get them off the way nicholas suggested first, then see if I can special order the part. For anyone who has the socket, coud you give me a name and/or part #/size I could use to help special order it?
 
G'day,

Not sure if you have access to one, but the basic 12 volt impact wheel nut wrenches are great for this sort of thing. don't have to hold the shock body at all, quick impact seems to undo the shock nuts very easily (and can clear vital parts with good quality socket extension). Worked recently for me.

Cheers,

Ross.
 
Major noob question here, what do you mean by the "metal stone guard"?


So today I ran all over the place looking for the socket, I can't find it. I'm going to try and get them off the way nicholas suggested first, then see if I can special order the part. For anyone who has the socket, coud you give me a name and/or part #/size I could use to help special order it?

I wouldn't worry about the socket. I had limited tools on hand when I did mine and the way I described worked. You can try to pre-treat w/ PB blaster in advance too.

The stone guard is the metal sleeve that shields the "piston" rod and it is attached to the upper shock stud. If you look at after market shocks on other vehicles like heeps or trucks you will see that many of them do not have stone guards. Instead the have "shock boots" which are accordion-like rubber boots that come in assorted colors.
 
I didnt have enough patience for mine! Even with PB they didnt want to come off, so I used a chisle. Nuts popped right off, and saved me the head ache.
 
impact wrench is your friend. I have a cheap one that works great. If you are trying to save $$ Autozone might have one on a loan a tool. Just remember, if you use it on the rear bolt, don't use a lot of torque. Like someone else said, don't break those off.
 
Hey thanks for all the advice guys. I ended up buying an oil filter wrench that had a rubber strap on it (instead of the standard metal sleeve). It worked really well, I just wrapped the strap around the shock, ratcheted it down, and then used a combo wrench for the bolt at the top. Did the backs too and thanks to the recommended PB Blaster the bolts all came off surprisingly easily. One thing I did notice is that Toyota changed the shocks a bit since 97' (haven't replaced shocks since we bought truck) They have what I'm guessing are skid plates welded onto the sides of them and the dust shield is larger, just found that kind of interesting.
 

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