Help... blub, blub, blub. (It's getting a little deep.) 
-)
I'm working on reassembling an FJ40 2F 214020. Was supposed to be in really premo condition. NNOOOOTTTTT! (Apparently along with that bridge I must own a big chunk of by now in Brookland.)
Pulled the pan to check the babbit. Ended up having to have the crank turned and block punched. New Man-A-Fre doomed pistons . Turned out the 2F head was also cracked - now its a "bathtub"? F head 61011. Minor change after parts in hand... Pocket bock says: "Make it work."
Current problem is that the piston/ring/rod set is way, way, WAY out of balance. Over the horizon out of sight kind of diff. Total of 49 grams.
Piston # Weight grams
1) 1789
2) 1792
3) 1792
4) 1771
5) 1777
6) 1782
Thats 4, 0, 21, 15 and 10 grams (49 total). WOW! Hey, but two of them match and one is close enough to salvage. Glass is surely half full!!! Right!
At one dime = 2 grams, highest to lowest piston / rod combo we'd be taking 10 dimes of metal off if the wrist pin boss! On three pistons! Wow, is that almost to seeing the pin? A big no-go.
Do wrist pins vary quiet a bit, too? (Having to look at everything.)
I'm guessing somebody did a bucket of odd parts rebuild and I'm looking at hard, cold, factual proof that that doesn't last long at anything above idle. Given the prior stress, good to do a good balance job. (Already turned the crank. Better maga-flux it...)
Going to need either a set of rods or 3 in the 1790g range... (whatever that makes the rods - will know shortly).
QUESTION: Did Toyota have drastic differences in rod weights in different years? If so, anybody know what years...
Seems like we'd have to do a re-dynamic balance of the motor, too, if, oh, say, we wanted more than maybe a 1500 rpm redline or 10,000 mile to rebuild interval... like between cranks windowing the block.
If there is that much variation in rod weights and not knowing what this crank's original was, nor, therefore what the piston/rod weights it was balanced for it were. (Admittedly, the three at 1790 would make that my first guess to aim for.)
((( Note: It's got to be the rods - new pistons that far out would be worthless and the supplier would shortly be out of business. )))
Going to disassemble and weigh the parts. (Small end rod bolt is too tight for hand held disassembly - headed to the shop to discuss, will do it there - i.e. more data shortly.)
Anybody seen this much rod weight differences?
Anybody know what reasonable rod weights are?
- Anybody have a good set of rods cheap? (Sammamish, WA)?
- Ditto a timing gear cover bolt set. (Now nicely mixed up and a few missing.)
- Also, would like to have new rod and main bolts if somebody has a decent set laying around they'd part with on the cheap... they were way, way, WAY over torqued.
((( Big cheater bar and too much pressure for the torque wrench kind of tight. Launch the idiot manhandling the cheater bar when it gives kind of tight... Really good bolts! At least they were. Really good block, too. At least it was. No doubt 30g out of balance necessitates that much torque? Or maybe welding? Somebody must have a nice one inch drive air wrench to use torquing the mains??? What, we count how long it hammers in one-thousand-and-one's --- or minutes. ??? :-( )))
Next problem will be piston to head clearance check... parts pretty badly unknown and everything shaved so it's going to have to be actual, measured clearance. Could be a touch tricky. (Way, way fun for a shade tree mechanic guy, sans the right tools, like me.)
-) I'm working on reassembling an FJ40 2F 214020. Was supposed to be in really premo condition. NNOOOOTTTTT! (Apparently along with that bridge I must own a big chunk of by now in Brookland.)
Pulled the pan to check the babbit. Ended up having to have the crank turned and block punched. New Man-A-Fre doomed pistons . Turned out the 2F head was also cracked - now its a "bathtub"? F head 61011. Minor change after parts in hand... Pocket bock says: "Make it work."
Current problem is that the piston/ring/rod set is way, way, WAY out of balance. Over the horizon out of sight kind of diff. Total of 49 grams.
Piston # Weight grams
1) 1789
2) 1792
3) 1792
4) 1771
5) 1777
6) 1782
Thats 4, 0, 21, 15 and 10 grams (49 total). WOW! Hey, but two of them match and one is close enough to salvage. Glass is surely half full!!! Right!
At one dime = 2 grams, highest to lowest piston / rod combo we'd be taking 10 dimes of metal off if the wrist pin boss! On three pistons! Wow, is that almost to seeing the pin?
A big no-go. Do wrist pins vary quiet a bit, too? (Having to look at everything.)
I'm guessing somebody did a bucket of odd parts rebuild and I'm looking at hard, cold, factual proof that that doesn't last long at anything above idle. Given the prior stress, good to do a good balance job. (Already turned the crank. Better maga-flux it...)
Going to need either a set of rods or 3 in the 1790g range... (whatever that makes the rods - will know shortly).
QUESTION: Did Toyota have drastic differences in rod weights in different years? If so, anybody know what years...
Seems like we'd have to do a re-dynamic balance of the motor, too, if, oh, say, we wanted more than maybe a 1500 rpm redline or 10,000 mile to rebuild interval... like between cranks windowing the block.
If there is that much variation in rod weights and not knowing what this crank's original was, nor, therefore what the piston/rod weights it was balanced for it were. (Admittedly, the three at 1790 would make that my first guess to aim for.)
((( Note: It's got to be the rods - new pistons that far out would be worthless and the supplier would shortly be out of business. )))
Going to disassemble and weigh the parts. (Small end rod bolt is too tight for hand held disassembly - headed to the shop to discuss, will do it there - i.e. more data shortly.)
Anybody seen this much rod weight differences?
Anybody know what reasonable rod weights are?
- Anybody have a good set of rods cheap? (Sammamish, WA)?
- Ditto a timing gear cover bolt set. (Now nicely mixed up and a few missing.)
- Also, would like to have new rod and main bolts if somebody has a decent set laying around they'd part with on the cheap... they were way, way, WAY over torqued.
((( Big cheater bar and too much pressure for the torque wrench kind of tight. Launch the idiot manhandling the cheater bar when it gives kind of tight... Really good bolts! At least they were. Really good block, too. At least it was. No doubt 30g out of balance necessitates that much torque? Or maybe welding? Somebody must have a nice one inch drive air wrench to use torquing the mains??? What, we count how long it hammers in one-thousand-and-one's --- or minutes. ??? :-( )))
Next problem will be piston to head clearance check... parts pretty badly unknown and everything shaved so it's going to have to be actual, measured clearance. Could be a touch tricky. (Way, way fun for a shade tree mechanic guy, sans the right tools, like me.)
