what would be a good set of shackels for a62 to clear 33's
shackles
- Thread starter beachedFJ62
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I've been pleased with these. You will probably want leaf spring shims for the front. I've seen it suggested to use 2.5 degree shims if you go with 1.5" over stock and 4 degree if you go with 2.5". I would think 2.5" (1.25" of lift) would be handy if your looking to run 33s that are 10.5" or wider.
Spector Performance Shackle www.sor.com
Spector Performance Shackle www.sor.com
- Thread starter
- #4
i want to run either 33x10.5 or possibly a 12.5
but not sure yet. i have to figure up the cost of things but would preferably have 33x12.5
but not sure yet. i have to figure up the cost of things but would preferably have 33x12.5
There was a side bar note in a posting a while ago that shackle length affected spring wear(arching) & liftspan etc. The longer the shackel the more the spring could loadup, unarc, etc. I know enough to be dangerous on this but to increase one's shackle length is just not all positive. There are some adverse side affects. From what I recall mostly in spring lifespan.
Cheers,
Cahil
Cheers,
Cahil
David*BJ70
Looking forward to reach the end of the world
Is it a necessity to shim the front or back when using :
1" shackles
1.5" shackles
2" or longer ?
I supposed wihtout that, it put a stress on th U-joint ?
1" shackles
1.5" shackles
2" or longer ?
I supposed wihtout that, it put a stress on th U-joint ?
Sporin
Site Addict
I'm in the process of adding SOR's 2.5" Shackle to my FJ62 right now. Got the fronts done last night. I havent' added any shims or anything as I figured I'd wait and see how it drove/steered befroe messing with pulling center pins and ubolts. I'd rather not get not that stuff unless I'm changing it out for a full kit anyway. Here in Vermont, it's the UN doing that takes the most time and effort (rust).
My springs are decent, not great, but not flat, and they look about the same with the shackles.
For me this is just a temporary measure until I can get my hand$ on a set of lift springs.
So I'm not too worried about spring stress. Frankly, if I broke a spring, it would just make it easier to push the lift kit through the CFO. 
It's just a guess, because I neglected to measure before I started, but I'd guess I got a solid 1.5-2" of lift. My 31's look tine on the front now. Doing the backs on Saturday and will post pics next week.
My springs are decent, not great, but not flat, and they look about the same with the shackles.
For me this is just a temporary measure until I can get my hand$ on a set of lift springs.
So I'm not too worried about spring stress. Frankly, if I broke a spring, it would just make it easier to push the lift kit through the CFO. It's just a guess, because I neglected to measure before I started, but I'd guess I got a solid 1.5-2" of lift. My 31's look tine on the front now. Doing the backs on Saturday and will post pics next week.
cahilc said:
that and they are the first things you hit off rocks
daviddrouin said:
I've got the Spector 1" Extreme Shackles on my 62. The Previous owner had some longer, poor quality shackles that I had to get rid of. An alignment guy told me that the shackle lift throws the front end out of alignment slightly but it can easily be adjusted without shims. Don't know if 33X12.5 would fit as I'm running 31's.
89gashog....that doesnt sound right to me at alll.... the shackles just change the caster of the front axle, it does not change tie rod lengh. It will cause wondering on the highway if the caster angle is off. but I dont see how it would throw off the alignment??? maybe im wrong???but I dont think I am...any other thoughts?
lowtideride said:
Correct, but to be *more* correct ...
Basic alignment is three inter-related components, toe, camber, caster. The toe would be fixed, the solid axle sets the camber, so caster is left. Yup, would require a caster shim. Start with 2 degrees if it's wandering. It may not need a shim if it's acceptable to the user. As in all cases ... results will vary.
Note: If you increase the shackle length the caster is affected noticeably. Camber is affected too(as the axle rotates downward) but may not be noticeable without precision measurement.
Cheers,
Cahil
P.S. Lowtide ... having bunches of fun trying to *shim* my rear locker. Would buy it again in a heartbeat. When you wanna do yours ... pick my brain and it will go as smooth as silk.
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When castor is changed with a shackle lift, is it possible that manipulating the camber and/or toe could bring you back to alignment? In any case, to date I haven't noticed any wandering without the shims.
89GASHOG said:
Rule of thumb ... If it's not broke, don't fix it. However, if you want to fix it ... break it first.
Well maybe *not*.
Sure t'ing ... a *good* alignment shop could adjust all three settings to your liking. The problem is alignment rack readings are static and you drive dynamically.
Toe, adjusts with threads. Camber with a torch(tricky). Caster with shims. Three independent adjustments. The direct answer to your question is "no". But if you like how it drives ??? Isn't that what counts ?
Cheers,
Cahil
Cahil...Im getting them after the re-gear so give me two months I still have to order an install kits for the gears....P.S. We found an awesome awesome spot to wheel down here....ill post pics in a few days....you have to make it down here soon....
-Al
-Al
lowtideride said:
I had to pull my rings in order to install the Aussie's. Setting the preload and backlash was tricky. I'm learning. Congrats on the new wheeling spot. I'll be down there soon. I just got tired of trying to dodge hurricanes and literally getting runover in the process.
Gee Lowtide, now where are you on this map ???
http://www.nhc.noaa.gov/ftp/graphics/AT11/refresh/AL1104W+GIF/170313W.gif
Looks like your gonna have company !!! Cute girl named Jeanne !!!
Cheers,
Cahil
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